Drywall after damp

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You talking to me now.......:rolleyes)

...... Yes mate, it does.....

But Weber don't recommend it - they advise LAC onto a board....

You WILL need to put a mesh into the basecoat before a finish, I think Rendaid is a bit thin for a mesh coat? but I have heard that ithas been done.......
 
Runswithscissors said:
You talking to me now.......:rolleyes)

...... Yes mate, it does.....

But Weber don't recommend it - they advise LAC onto a board....

You WILL need to put a mesh into the basecoat before a finish, I think Rendaid is a bit thin for a mesh coat? but I have heard that ithas been done.......
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But your my mate :RpS_biggrin: got one of those jobs ,where they have to box in the steels around the windows ,i was thinking rendaid with mess ,then mono as the whole block is to be done in Weber pral
 
Weber don't like their Pral onto a board either....:RpS_bored: .... so you may as well do what you like..... that said, they are happy for you to buy it and use it.... LOL

let me know if you want some assistance.......
 
Runswithscissors said:
Weber don't like their Pral onto a board either....:RpS_bored: .... so you may as well do what you like..... that said, they are happy for you to buy it and use it.... LOL

let me know if you want some assistance.......
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I know what your saying ,but once it has been built , i have to get over it as best i can ,think i will go with lac ,and stipple it , as a key ,thanks again
 
That is what i would recomend - 4-5mm LAC with mesh, stipple it or score it just before it cures (try not to pull the mesh though). Then 11mm pral scratched back to 9mm..... (bit thin, but any more and the total coat is too heavy).

good luck marra
 
Runswithscissors said:
That is what i would recomend - 4-5mm LAC with mesh, stipple it or score it just before it cures (try not to pull the mesh though). Then 11mm pral scratched back to 9mm..... (bit thin, but any more and the total coat is too heavy).

good luck marra
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Thanks mate
 
AntJones said:
Hi Bigguns
If sand and cement or dricoat base coat is not an option here
Permagard do a kit that could help you out with this.
Check this out, I just lifted it from their website.
This kit is specifically designed for application after the insertion of a new damp proof course. The 3mm Meshed Membrane provides a firm key and impermeable barrier on any damp or deteriorating surface. Protects against damp and also salts re-appearing.



This damp proofing membrane kit is specifically designed for application after the insertion of a new damp proof course. The 3mm meshed damp proofing membrane provides a firm key and impermeable barrier on any damp or deteriorating surface. The damp proofing membrane kit can be installed straight after the insertion of the new damp proof course and can be rendered or dot and dabbed immediately after completion of the membrane installation. Thus cutting down the time of the remedial work.​
Once the new damp proof course has been injected simply apply the damp proofing membrane to the walls affected then either dot and dab or render directly to it. The damp proofing membrane presents a physical barrier between the old surface finish and the new internal finish thus preventing any future discolouration and salt deposits on the surface plaster and decoration.
Key Advantages​

  • Can be used on virtually any surface
  • Provides a good key for new finishes
  • Impenetrable barrier for damp, salts etc
  • Provides long lasting protection, and is effective for the remaining life of the building
  • Increases the insulation of the room
  • Bridges cracks in the substrate
  • Can be decorated as soon as installation is completed
  • Speeds up remedial and redecoration work



Sovereign also do a similar set. I've used both and had no come backs. good luck
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I d go with AntJones. Maybe ththese guys havent got the whole picture. Hack off old plaster .Insert the membrane dot and dad and skim the whole job can be done in 3 days.
Day 1 Hack off old plaster
Day 2 install membrane and plasterboard
Day 3 skim away jobs a gooden
 
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