Drywall after damp

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Bigguns09

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Hi guys !!

i do a lot of damp course work,injecting dry zone and
hacking off on the inside, it's getting harder to get a decent price as my competition have dropped ther prices, now I'm told thay are not using sand and cement on the inside anymore thay are plaster boarding onto the brick with drywall adhesive, the guy I no who works for them says thay are using a water proof sealer on the bear brick first then dot an dabbing, will this work ? It would reduce the cost a lot but I don't want to try it without good advice..

thank you
 
It seems odd,but if they have a successful way of sealing cheaply then they can dot and dab,I never heard of this for damp proofing , have you used dri coat or lime lite, the are expensive though and need 2 days also ,cement should be left for five.perhaps some one pulling your leg, don't mention rising damp it raises hackles here ha ha,
 
No I can't see it I do alot of damp work injecting then normly a sand and cement render with zypex in the mix followed by lime lite then high impact plaster as the wall breaths Easyer this way
 
Very good stuff look it up, use other stuff as well but I'm afraid I can't give away my secrets as we are 1 of a few company's that use this other method in the uk
 
johniosaif said:
Too many dicks buying it, about 200 pounds for 25 litres and you mix it at ten water to one sika,so a small job swallows it up quickly,
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thats not too bad if ya mixing 10-1...... the kingfisher KX-11 gear is £125 for 25l and i mix that 4-1
 
Never used kingfisher,builders all know and love sika but it has its flaws,used loads of it tanking,sovereign seems to be popular on here with some of the learned spreads
 
If I ever get this sort of work I use dri coat but always skim the whole wall not just patch it.
i have also put a scratch coat of dri coat followed by dabbing boards onto the scratch.
 
Bigguns09 said:
Hi guys !!

i do a lot of damp course work,injecting dry zone and
hacking off on the inside, it's getting harder to get a decent price as my competition have dropped ther prices, now I'm told thay are not using sand and cement on the inside anymore thay are plaster boarding onto the brick with drywall adhesive, the guy I no who works for them says thay are using a water proof sealer on the bear brick first then dot an dabbing, will this work ? It would reduce the cost a lot but I don't want to try it without good advice..

thank you
Click to expand...

Hi Bigguns
If sand and cement or dricoat base coat is not an option here
Permagard do a kit that could help you out with this.
Check this out, I just lifted it from their website.
This kit is specifically designed for application after the insertion of a new damp proof course. The 3mm Meshed Membrane provides a firm key and impermeable barrier on any damp or deteriorating surface. Protects against damp and also salts re-appearing.



This damp proofing membrane kit is specifically designed for application after the insertion of a new damp proof course. The 3mm meshed damp proofing membrane provides a firm key and impermeable barrier on any damp or deteriorating surface. The damp proofing membrane kit can be installed straight after the insertion of the new damp proof course and can be rendered or dot and dabbed immediately after completion of the membrane installation. Thus cutting down the time of the remedial work.​
Once the new damp proof course has been injected simply apply the damp proofing membrane to the walls affected then either dot and dab or render directly to it. The damp proofing membrane presents a physical barrier between the old surface finish and the new internal finish thus preventing any future discolouration and salt deposits on the surface plaster and decoration.
Key Advantages​
  • Can be used on virtually any surface
  • Provides a good key for new finishes
  • Impenetrable barrier for damp, salts etc
  • Provides long lasting protection, and is effective for the remaining life of the building
  • Increases the insulation of the room
  • Bridges cracks in the substrate
  • Can be decorated as soon as installation is completed
  • Speeds up remedial and redecoration work



Sovereign also do a similar set. I've used both and had no come backs. good luck
 
Sounds to me that they are doing a slurry of 50% cement & 50% SBR and coating the walls with it then next day dabbing.

or they might be using a tight coat of renderlite then dabbing.

Sand and cement is the right way but times are changing and people are using insulated plasterboard on walls.

I guess with the way heating costs are going more people will be going down this route
 
Insulating external walls will end up damaging the wall as it gets no help drying from the inside so all ingress end water remains for longer and leads to a break down in the exterior over time.it is very popular at the moment and councils push for it but it may bite us in the ass long term.
 
As for additives. We use Permagards injection cream and there additive which they sell as the recommended one for use following there cream.
 
I have seen this done before.

But the tanking was dripping with condensation and that in turn collected on the dabs, which resulted in the "damp rings" appearing on the wall.

The solution was to remove the plasterboard and solid plaster back with rendering and skim.
 
I went to look at a job today and it was to patch up where a combi had be removed. It was in a stone cottage and the wall had been dabbed after dampproofing. The exposed wall was damp and i asked why they didnt render from floor the ceiling. They told the customer it would take to long and cost too much so they rendered 1m and then dabbed the whole wall

I put my hand down the back of the board and it was damp and covered in mould. they had to to put massive dabs on cos the wall was all over the place and used that expanding foam dab stuff to stick the boards on................:RpS_thumbdn:
 
Another place I seen to see this a lot is in barn conversions.

The outside walls are studded out to allow for services and insulation. The window reveals are nearly always dabbed as the client won't reduce the size of the window to allow for the timber. The builders want to much money to fit larger lintels to allow to enlarge the opening.
 
personally i aint into dabbing walls, prefer to do it right, but cost seems to be the driving force with people.

Then the customer realises why it was soo much cheaper.

Its the customers i feel sorry for 18 months 2 years later.
 
carlos said:
Another place I seen to see this a lot is in barn conversions.

The outside walls are studded out to allow for services and insulation. The window reveals are nearly always dabbed as the client won't reduce the size of the window to allow for the timber. The builders want to much money to fit larger lintels to allow to enlarge the opening.
Click to expand...


We tend to hack off tank then render back.

Although I have a hand trick for doing these areas...............:RpS_wink:
 
come on then carlos spill the beans........or PM me if you wanna keep it on the down low..............:RpS_thumbup:
 
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