Dot & dab not drying out in new plaster

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JKD

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Just had an entire 4 bed bungalow replastered - new plasterboard & plaster. The majority is drying out nicely (4 weeks in) and we are hoping to start painting next week. Question - anyone know why the area where the dot & dab was fixed is refusing to dry out? If I paint over that - paint supplier suggesting using tinted supermatt which is breathable - am I going to get problems down the line?
 
Just had an entire 4 bed bungalow replastered - new plasterboard & plaster. The majority is drying out nicely (4 weeks in) and we are hoping to start painting next week. Question - anyone know why the area where the dot & dab was fixed is refusing to dry out? If I paint over that - paint supplier suggesting using tinted supermatt which is breathable - am I going to get problems down the line?
Any pics? What type of construction is the building and is it all the external walls?
 
Just had an entire 4 bed bungalow replastered - new plasterboard & plaster. The majority is drying out nicely (4 weeks in) and we are hoping to start painting next week. Question - anyone know why the area where the dot & dab was fixed is refusing to dry out? If I paint over that - paint supplier suggesting using tinted supermatt which is breathable - am I going to get problems down the line?
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This is on an external wall (to a garage which hasn't had a roof for 3 months so wall has been exposed). This is the one I'm most worried about because it was done just before New Year...
 
It is single skin and the roof hasn't been done yet - it's a GRP affair and weather been too atrocious. Hopefully getting done this week though.
 
I wonder how many spreds actually dab properly to spec :lol:

Plenty of dabs but no solid bead around perimeter!

I'm just being picky though.

Looks like the wall has had a lot of moisture from the elements and is a bit sodden.

What's on the other side of the wall?
And as above is it single skin?

I wouldn't paint diy sos style it will peel even with flat matte. I've seen it with my own eyes numerous times
 
Bet it's a 9 inch wall, wet through and pulling moisture through the adhesive like a sponge, fix the roof get the wall re pointed if it needs it, if your lucky will cure if there old or really pourus bricks then it'll have to be racked off and rendered inside, if you paint it without sorting the issue it'll be mouldy in 2/3 months
 
It is single skin, the other side is the inside of the garage, but it's been without its roof for some time. Property is a 1965 bradstone bungalow, that particular wall is north facing too, though while not overly exposed doesn't get any sun. Tinytom - how do I know if the wall will need repointing?
 
Choppa, if there's a lot of this around is it due to poor workmanship or just plastering in damp conditions?
Having no roof on the garage and single skin brick work is the answer try and at least water tight the other side.
 
Both sides of the wall will need insulating with 50mm celotex or similar after the wall has been dried out . It could be battened out or dot and dabbed with insulated plasterboard.
 
I requested insulated plasterboard but didn't actually see it put up, will check with builder. Duke163, when you suggest "Both sides of the wall will need insulating with 50mm celotex or similar after the wall has been dried out . It could be battened out or dot and dabbed with insulated plasterboard," are you suggesting we take it down and start again? I am pissed off with the roofer but to be fair the weather has been truly shite and either too cold or too wet or both to put on GRP
 
vfr12 - I don't know why they are those stripes, suspect it's all to do with this external wall. It's not like that anywhere else in the house...at the moment
 
I requested insulated plasterboard but didn't actually see it put up, will check with builder. Duke163, when you suggest "Both sides of the wall will need insulating with 50mm celotex or similar after the wall has been dried out . It could be battened out or dot and dabbed with insulated plasterboard," are you suggesting we take it down and start again? I am pissed off with the roofer but to be fair the weather has been truly shite and either too cold or too wet or both to put on GRP

Building control in our area usually require both sides done if a single skin wall separates the garage from a living area . We often use thermaline super on the inside to save space and this usually appeases them ! Stripping off would be best .
 
It's like 70s wallpaper in George and Mildred. You'll be waiting forever and a day for it to dry out. Batten, board and skim like already suggested and you'll be off and running.
 
Blackdog, can batten & board be put over what's already there, with a new skim over the top or does it all have to come off & start from scratch...
 
Blackdog, can batten & board be put over what's already there, with a new skim over the top or does it all have to come off & start from scratch...
I wouldn't do that for a big clock. Just take it back to the wall. Slice along the ceiling line with a stanley where he would have scrimmed.
 
Forgive my ignorance but that's why I posted on this - to get some opinions of experts / professionals who've been in the industry a long time. This is my family home which is being worked on, not some flick-it-on do-oer upper for a quick profit. As Donald Rumsfeld said - we don't know the unknowns
 
Forgive my ignorance but that's why I posted on this - to get some opinions of experts / professionals who've been in the industry a long time. This is my family home which is being worked on, not some flick-it-on do-oer upper for a quick profit. As Donald Rumsfeld said - we don't know the unknowns
No ignorance here sorry about it. Try taking off a faceplate of a socket to see if you did indeed get the insulated plasterboard but I highly doubt it by looking at the dab marks as I don't think it would show through if it's insulated plasterboard, but that's just me.
Get a dehumidifier going in there on full whack same in garage next door with no roof. You might also try putting one piece rubber roof on instead of grp, quicker install quicker get the place watertight
 
Rumsfeld is a Zionist puppet. Check out Project for the New American Century. If your need is to redecorate quickly batten and board.
 
Rumsfeld is a Zionist puppet. Check out Project for the New American Century. If your need is to redecorate quickly batten and board.
Rumsfeld is an ass & I didn't know the Project was still going. Maybe Trump will turn it into the Project for the Beautiful New American Century... Thanks for advice from all. Signing off feeling a bit overwhelmed...
 
Builders always have and always will take the quickest and cheapest route possible if you are not stood next to them all day.
They should have mentioned the other side should be watertight way before they did the internal. But they won't because it slows them down and can't get paid until it's complete.
It might be your family home and not a quick flip to make a buck
But to them it's just another job as quick as possible and on to the next.
Irrespective of if there are good or bad builders.
It's the age old phrase money makes the world go round like it or not.
If they ain't finishing or at least completing stages they ain't earning.

As above best route is take it all back baton it insulate it and board it up on both sides after its watertight.
 
Just had an entire 4 bed bungalow replastered - new plasterboard & plaster. The majority is drying out nicely (4 weeks in) and we are hoping to start painting next week. Question - anyone know why the area where the dot & dab was fixed is refusing to dry out? If I paint over that - paint supplier suggesting using tinted supermatt which is breathable - am I going to get problems down the line?

if needs be i can do a report for you and a detailed survey.
if it refusing to dry out it is a serious problem.
message me for more details my partner @gps will give you a small quote on legal fees to refund your invoice you have paid on the plastering.

thanks algeeman.
 
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