dot and dabbing window wall.

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keiron

keiron

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Ive got a quick question for use. I've got to dot and dab a window wall. Am I best doing the reveals first with a inch over hang or wall first with a over hang then put in the reveals?

Cheers
 
Depends how quick you need to do it....
By the sounds of it you are relatively new to this but the easiest is to do reveals & head first and let the stuff set so you don't disturb them when doing the wall, cut the reveals and head all same width and use these as a 'screed' to straighten the wall when dabbing it
 
Ok thanks cheers everyone think my problem is I over think everything to much and start doubting my self. So heads and reveals first got it. Cheers again
 
All good advice above , if windows are out of plumb i always ask the customer if they want the wall bang on plumb and reveals wonky or vise versa , or in the middle ..... Puts the ball in there court compared to you choosing , and them kicking up a fuss
 
i do the reveals first, with the bonded edge of the plasterboard on the angle.when i stick the wall i have the bonded edge again at the angle. this method gives you a plumb and true angle.
 
I leave them hanging past @malc , and mark them out then cut them plumb so ends up the same really . That way you can string line through if a few windows along the heads and bang they all line through :)
 
CTPlastering said:
I leave them hanging past @malc , and mark them out then cut them plumb so ends up the same really . That way you can string line through if a few windows along the heads and bang they all line through :)
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we never have a cut edge on the angle, the bonded edge is straight.
we never ask anyone what they choose if the frame is not correct. we fit all boards to a spirit level our work is then correct the frame is not our problem.
 
And you do the reveals first ? So if the window is out of plumb it would be a right f**k on to get the good edge plumb ready to dab the wall on after ?
 
reveals first, i measure the reveal to find the proudest point.
i then add enough thickness to make sure that i can cover conduits etc. i then cut the head 12mm extra to hold the board up over the head.
the reveals are fitted to the spirit level.
the face wall is then stuck starting with the bonded edge of the board against the bonded edge of the reveal, working towards the internal angle.
when we float a set of reveals, beads are set plumb, reveals squared then ruled with a gauge stick then ruled in the upright in case the frame is bowed.
 
johniosaif said:
That won't work everywhere ,got pulled before on this, you need to eye it to frames or have a discussion about it
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if your work is plumb it is not your problem.
years ago we did eye up, if it looks right then it is right. just fitted plumb now .
there are electric levels out now that give a buzz when they are correct so no need to keep looking at the bubble.
 
malc said:
reveals first, i measure the reveal to find the proudest point.
i then add enough thickness to make sure that i can cover conduits etc. i then cut the head 12mm extra to hold the board up over the head.
the reveals are fitted to the spirit level.
the face wall is then stuck starting with the bonded edge of the board against the bonded edge of the reveal, working towards the internal angle.
when we float a set of reveals, beads are set plumb, reveals squared then ruled with a gauge stick then ruled in the upright in case the frame is bowed.
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If the windows are not level or plumb what's the answer ,if you plumb beads to an un level widow it looks terrible .
 
malc said:
if your work is plumb it is not your problem.
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I did three flats during the down time 2010 ish,the were brand new flats,badly built badly run,the windows were full height and the were not plumb or level ,we checked with the young foreman he said just plumb the beads and they'd change the windows,there was an old spread on site (dead now) miserable. Old c**t ,he delighted in showing the bosses the windows and beads didn't line up,we got called back and he went around pointing at the beads not lining with the windows,they weren't happy,the foreman hid ,so we hacked off the beads,re lined them to match the windows,
I was caught on the hop so to speak but did it in an evening , well pizzed off
 
All reveals must be square,equidistant margins all around ,plumb too if this is possible, it should be plumb but it's not always possible. You can't leave the 'blame door' open
 
malc said:
tell them to take it up with the window fitter, you are not there to make other peoples work look good!
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I disagree ,I'd definitely have to say these windows are incorrectly fitted and id have it with a responsible person, these days an email confirmation too, I hate getting blamed
 
we always cut reveals same width from frame if the window is not plumb then ye the wall wont be plumb but nothin worse than tapering reveals
 
CTPlastering said:
If they are new windows its worse again really .... i always ask and they cant complain .....
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you do think that they will remember that conversation ?
if you are on site work get a written instruction, if you are on private work then you are the expert that is why they are employing you.
 
malc said:
you do think that they will remember that conversation ?
if you are on site work get a written instruction, if you are on private work then you are the expert that is why they are employing you.
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I understand that , well i just work for builders and domestic normally . Doesnt do any harm pointing it out to them , yes on big sites etc to many boss's etc and a conversation wouldnt work .... I would plumb them up same as you malc but would mention it that the windows were out and give them the options .
 
malc said:
you do think that they will remember that conversation ?
if you are on site work get a written instruction, if you are on private work then you are the expert that is why they are employing you.
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As the expert though you should notice the windows are wrong and at least mention that the reveals will look wonky well i would lol
 
jamesthefirst said:
Did YOU kill the old spread John? :)
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No, he died on his own, he was a miserable bitter man,hated us as subcontractors taking "his work " but it was five flats ,
Crazily it all had to be rendered internal in sand and cement even over solid smooth concrete ,they wanted the plastering done with half plastering sand and half bricky sand,seven tonne per flat, new build ,out of plumb badly , the old boy was in his sixties,not a great spread but a great critic,as he was their 'expert' his word was believed ,
The block walls had got soaked during the build ,and when the plaster went on and dried ,effervescence appeared (white salts) the old boy told the. Builder it was down to us as we used lime.i find it hard to argue against stupidity like this,then the effervescence caused some pitting in the plaster and that was my fault too. The Sparks knew me and often listened in when the old boy was slagging us off ,never said anything to me,, old c**t rip
 
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