Dot and dab window reveal

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mickyburr

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Am I better off doing reveal with an inch over lap first or wall with an inch over lap witch is best and more accurate
 
The little squares from b and q are great for keeping everything square( obviously) and margins the same all the way around , if the windows aren’t upright a spirit level is of little use.
 
I disagree.
If you are hell bent on keeping all the reveals the same width then you are letting the window fitters dictate the face of the internal wall.
The windows are always fitted to look 'right' with the face brickwork.
So you're actually letting a bricklayer dictate the internal wall covering, no thank you!
 
I disagree.
If you are hell bent on keeping all the reveals the same width then you are letting the window fitters dictate the face of the internal wall.
The windows are always fitted to look 'right' with the face brickwork.
So you're actually letting a bricklayer dictate the internal wall covering, no thank you!
I always put reveals on first! It's so simple and easy! And then in an old property I cut them to the highest point and everything follows.
 
Do you not work to chalk lines on the ceiling and the floor (floor not always possible)?
I’ve never ever seen that done apart from on bg YouTube videos. For me getting the reveals in and start dabbing with a 3m box section big square and a 6ft level. I must do the chalk line thing next time as it makes sense (y)
 
Do you not work to chalk lines on the ceiling and the floor (floor not always possible)?
For those of us that not done it how do you set out with the chalk line ? Just ping a line across say 25mm off the block work ? Dummies guide please mate.
 
I always do reveals last for the reason Andy give above. If the windows out of square I still dab plumb and level, you can’t argue with a bubble. Window fitters are a joke nowadays.


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I did my apprenticeship with a price basher, I’ve noticed as the years gone by I’ve not learnt everything correctly but I get by fine now evolving my techniques as I go. Never even seen the chalk line used it’s all freestyle down this way with floating aswell just rule it off never seen anyone set out screeds although I have done it myself on occasion.
 
reveals on first so they're always the same width. That s**t draws the eye.

People in various trades frequently forget/miss the importance of looking right to the eye. Sure start with a level or square, but you frequently have to tweak things out of square or plumb to make them look right.
 
For those of us that not done it how do you set out with the chalk line ? Just ping a line across say 25mm off the block work ? Dummies guide please mate.
I start with a quick check of the wall for plumb using either an 8ft or telescopic level.
If the wall is pretty much plumb I use a block to mark about 25mm out from the blockwork onto the ceiling and ping a chalk line from one to the other.
If the wall is out of plumb then the ceiling is marked at either more, or less than 25mm,
If possible, the marks are transferred onto the floor using the telescopic level and another chalk line pinged across.
An angle gauge is used to make sure that boards are sailed past the reveal by the same amount on every window throughout the whole property, but also plumbed up using a level.

This may sound longwinded but it really isn't, we'll often go round and put all the chalk lines around a first/ground floor in a matter of minutes before we even start cutting boards.
Once you start sticking, working to the chalk line/lines is so quick and easy.
I decide the line and plumbness of my window walls, not a brickie or window fitter!
 
I always put reveals on first! It's so simple and easy! And then in an old property I cut them to the highest point and everything follows.
This is a wall on our current job Jess.
All of the window reveals have been clad in MDF, cut parallel and fitted by the chippy. We've then had to board according to his reveals, which are fixed up to the window frames, which were fitted to look right with the face brickwork.
We've had to twist and turn things to try to get ceiling and skirting lines straight and internals plumb.
Bloody nightmare trying to get things looking right.
IMG_20180207_082230951.jpg
 
This is a wall on our current job Jess.
All of the window reveals have been clad in MDF, cut parallel and fitted by the chippy. We've then had to board according to his reveals, which are fixed up to the window frames, which were fitted to look right with the face brickwork.
We've had to twist and turn things to try to get ceiling and skirting lines straight and internals plumb.
Bloody nightmare trying to get things looking right.
View attachment 21504
Iooks lovely with those windows though and you got snooooow outside!
 
Iooks lovely with those windows though and you got snooooow outside!
Yeah they're quality windows and the architrave around them is growing on me.
So cold here that we went home, and we were only tacking lol.
To be fair we've finished the main house and only have the boot room on the back of the garage left to do and it's really, really cold in there.
 
I start with a quick check of the wall for plumb using either an 8ft or telescopic level.
If the wall is pretty much plumb I use a block to mark about 25mm out from the blockwork onto the ceiling and ping a chalk line from one to the other.
If the wall is out of plumb then the ceiling is marked at either more, or less than 25mm,
If possible, the marks are transferred onto the floor using the telescopic level and another chalk line pinged across.
An angle gauge is used to make sure that boards are sailed past the reveal by the same amount on every window throughout the whole property, but also plumbed up using a level.

This may sound longwinded but it really isn't, we'll often go round and put all the chalk lines around a first/ground floor in a matter of minutes before we even start cutting boards.
Once you start sticking, working to the chalk line/lines is so quick and easy.
I decide the line and plumbness of my window walls, not a brickie or window fitter!
These
I start with a quick check of the wall for plumb using either an 8ft or telescopic level.
If the wall is pretty much plumb I use a block to mark about 25mm out from the blockwork onto the ceiling and ping a chalk line from one to the other.
If the wall is out of plumb then the ceiling is marked at either more, or less than 25mm,
If possible, the marks are transferred onto the floor using the telescopic level and another chalk line pinged across.
An angle gauge is used to make sure that boards are sailed past the reveal by the same amount on every window throughout the whole property, but also plumbed up using a level.

This may sound longwinded but it really isn't, we'll often go round and put all the chalk lines around a first/ground floor in a matter of minutes before we even start cutting boards.
Once you start sticking, working to the chalk line/lines is so quick and easy.
I decide the line and plumbness of my window walls, not a brickie or window fitter!
never seen a telescopic level!! We must be rough down this way , although I’ve got a nice narrow laser level that came in handy the other day on a wall that was seriously leaning. Because it’s quite slim I sat it quite close to the wall and could see exactly what was going on .
 
These

never seen a telescopic level!! We must be rough down this way , although I’ve got a nice narrow laser level that came in handy the other day on a wall that was seriously leaning. Because it’s quite slim I sat it quite close to the wall and could see exactly what was going on .
Well if I had a nice laser level I wouldn't use a telescopic level!
To be honest the tele level was a lot of money for how often it gets used.
A lot of the time we've had to put a 25mm insulation upstand around the screed, making it just about impossible to get a line on the floor anyway.
 
Yeah they're quality windows and the architrave around them is growing on me.
So cold here that we went home, and we were only tacking lol.
To be fair we've finished the main house and only have the boot room on the back of the garage left to do and it's really, really cold in there.
Looks lovely!

I take it back (partially) been floating round a bay window today those damn things are never even!!
 
I disagree.
If you are hell bent on keeping all the reveals the same width then you are letting the window fitters dictate the face of the internal wall.
The windows are always fitted to look 'right' with the face brickwork.
So you're actually letting a bricklayer dictate the internal wall covering, no thank you!
Ever so picky on that one Andy, mind you we did a school years back with levels, I got pulled by the agent saying my beads were s**t, put a level on them to show him and the chippy had to take the window out and fit it properly, absolutely loved that, sniggering at him
 
Well if I had a nice laser level I wouldn't use a telescopic level!
To be honest the tele level was a lot of money for how often it gets used.
A lot of the time we've had to put a 25mm insulation upstand around the screed, making it just about impossible to get a line on the floor anyway.
Amazing how often the laser gets used, for some bizarre reason everytime I use it I get slightly excited :LOL:
 
Watching some Bulgarian chaps dab today and they dab the back of the board instead of the wall, never seen that one before, perhaps that’s the way in Bulgaria.
 
Watching some Bulgarian chaps dab today and they dab the back of the board instead of the wall, never seen that one before, perhaps that’s the way in Bulgaria.
Perhaps if they can't do it properly they should f**k off back to Bulgaria!
 
Perhaps if they can't do it properly they should f**k off back to Bulgaria!
They’re nice guys I didn’t want to scoff too much, great metal fixers and boarders they graft all day long but I did raise an eyebrow I must admit.​
 
Ever so picky on that one Andy, mind you we did a school years back with levels, I got pulled by the agent saying my beads were s**t, put a level on them to show him and the chippy had to take the window out and fit it properly, absolutely loved that, sniggering at him
Exactly mate. We had seven walls with two windows on, like the picture I put up. Because the reveals are all the cut the same width nothing lines through and some reveals were out of upright.
 
Exactly mate. We had seven walls with two windows on, like the picture I put up. Because the reveals are all the cut the same width nothing lines through and some reveals were out of upright.
I know what you mean it pisses me off the amount of tolerance these people get but plasterers oh no it’s got to be right, door liners are another one that kills me when you have three on one wall and have to twist the wall all over the place to get it done, then you get a that’s 3 mil out, I just fume
 
I know what you mean it pisses me off the amount of tolerance these people get but plasterers oh no it’s got to be right, door liners are another one that kills me when you have three on one wall and have to twist the wall all over the place to get it done, then you get a that’s 3 mil out, I just fume
We take pictures on our phones of anything we have to get over.
We don't moan or mention it as a rule but woe betide a chippy or builder that wants to point out any little mistake we've made, and we all do.
We had a frame put in recently that, if we'd followed it, the adhesive would have needed to be 45mm thick by the end of the wall!
 
I start with a quick check of the wall for plumb using either an 8ft or telescopic level.
If the wall is pretty much plumb I use a block to mark about 25mm out from the blockwork onto the ceiling and ping a chalk line from one to the other.
If the wall is out of plumb then the ceiling is marked at either more, or less than 25mm,
If possible, the marks are transferred onto the floor using the telescopic level and another chalk line pinged across.
An angle gauge is used to make sure that boards are sailed past the reveal by the same amount on every window throughout the whole property, but also plumbed up using a level.

This may sound longwinded but it really isn't, we'll often go round and put all the chalk lines around a first/ground floor in a matter of minutes before we even start cutting boards.
Once you start sticking, working to the chalk line/lines is so quick and easy.
I decide the line and plumbness of my window walls, not a brickie or window fitter!
Bg actually spec to do it that way with chaulk lines it’s pretty old school way of doing it but does work and pretty easy when you have got your head round it they spec that also the amount of dabs is down to the thickness of the board trouble is in the fast paced world these days that sort of thing goes out the window and many won’t know about it but it’s them sort of things I’ve learnt over the years and ok don’t do that way all the time if I get a problem or something to stimulate the grey matter it’s always handy to have that in your locker
 
Reveals first . I always fetch em out more then needed on old houses (and a lot of new builds ) then trim em back on once I,ve done wall. Prefer to let em set so they hold top boards weight while what sets if not I cut my side a touch higher then the top reveal to take the weight then “grout” the gap . Got a pet hate bout nails being smashed in to hold weight
 
We take pictures on our phones of anything we have to get over.
We don't moan or mention it as a rule but woe betide a chippy or builder that wants to point out any little mistake we've made, and we all do.
We had a frame put in recently that, if we'd followed it, the adhesive would have needed to be 45mm thick by the end of the wall!
If it’s a old house I,ll point out to customer the reveals plum but looks a t**t with window so do they want it to look right with window or plum . Can’t remember one saying go with bubble . Also tell em to measure from top reveal if there putting a curtain pole up .
 
We take pictures on our phones of anything we have to get over.
We don't moan or mention it as a rule but woe betide a chippy or builder that wants to point out any little mistake we've made, and we all do.
We had a frame put in recently that, if we'd followed it, the adhesive would have needed to be 45mm thick by the end of the wall!

It’s always the same attitude, the next trade can get over that which is usually the plasterer, I just point stuff out now, I got stung once by a site agent because I didn’t get something in writing before doing it, luckily the bloke I was working for was okay about it and it taught me a lesson about how they lie to save face
 
I start with a quick check of the wall for plumb using either an 8ft or telescopic level.
If the wall is pretty much plumb I use a block to mark about 25mm out from the blockwork onto the ceiling and ping a chalk line from one to the other.
If the wall is out of plumb then the ceiling is marked at either more, or less than 25mm,
If possible, the marks are transferred onto the floor using the telescopic level and another chalk line pinged across.
An angle gauge is used to make sure that boards are sailed past the reveal by the same amount on every window throughout the whole property, but also plumbed up using a level.

This may sound longwinded but it really isn't, we'll often go round and put all the chalk lines around a first/ground floor in a matter of minutes before we even start cutting boards.
Once you start sticking, working to the chalk line/lines is so quick and easy.
I decide the line and plumbness of my window walls, not a brickie or window fitter!

Gonna try that next time
 
Reveals first . I always fetch em out more then needed on old houses (and a lot of new builds ) then trim em back on once I,ve done wall. Prefer to let em set so they hold top boards weight while what sets if not I cut my side a touch higher then the top reveal to take the weight then “grout” the gap . Got a pet hate bout nails being smashed in to hold weight
I do the same but when I’m boarding over top of a window I cut notches into the board either side so the reveals or head aren’t taking any weight
 
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