Dot and dab over very uneven stone walls

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marshall

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I recently removed all the old plaster (mud and straw I think) from my stairs and landings.
the plaster was thick in some places and pretty much none existent in places, in places it was nothing more than a very thin coat of plaster and then then the artex on the stone. I also removed the old plasterboard from two stud walls which were built 20 years ago to make a third bedroom and a bigger bathroom.
now all the old plaster is off, I am faced with two very uneven stone walls and one smooth and flat brick wall.
the stud walls and the brick wall are pretty straight forward to plasterboard, but I'm a little unsure as what to do with the stone walls. I have an SDS drill with a chisel function so I could break off the uneven bits of stone, then dot and dab plasterboard on to the walls, or should I consider battening the stone walls and then screwing plasterboard to the battens?

There is also a single piece of timber on one wall that has the banister fixed to it. I don't want to remove this if possible so I would prefer a method that would bring the new plasterboard to the same thickness of the old plaster.
what is the best method to use in this situation?
 
I think knocking off the high points would be much easier, then dab fresh plasterboard over everything.
I have removed old plaster from other rooms in the house, luckily the walls in these rooms were much more even than the ones I have recently uncovered. so I rather foolishly thought that all the walls in the house would be as even and level.
 
Leave the stone walls, and make them a feature.

Or just leave areas exposed and plaster the rest...use your artistic capacity.:RpS_thumbsup:
 
That was my first thought. I removed all the old plaster and then injured my shoulder, so I haven't been able to do much work.
the more I look at the stone walls the more I disagree with the idea of plastering over them. the main problem is that removing the old plaster has left several gaps around the door frames and at the side of the stair case. so re pointing the stone walls and making a feature out of them would look pretty silly with all the gaps that have been left behind.
 
Breaking off the high spots might not be such a good idea, the stone seems to be a lot harder than I thought it would be.
any suggestions?
 
Gypliner or MF, just done a similar thing on a job, most of the old horse hair plaster gone and walls as straight as a dogs hind leg.
Like you the wall was in and out, Gyplinered the wall, then boarded and skimmed it
 
This is where inexperience kicks you in the arse every time. I have never had to dot and dab on walls that are so uneven.
I have also never done any rendering, this is of course nothing to do with inexperience, it's simply a fact that I hated doing it at college and I still hate it now. I had to do it at college but I certainly didn't like it.
I wouldn't mind being on a rendering job with someone who knows what they are doing, but I wouldn't dare to tackle any rendering myself.
 
Like I said earlier cut lengths of board ( pref off cuts) about 6 inch wide, dab em on every 600 and abit more on bottom for skirt, use a chalk line or laser on floor and ceiling and Pack to line obv tight back as you can go. Then use nice big dabs for yr boards.
 
This is where inexperience kicks you in the arse every time. I have never had to dot and dab on walls that are so uneven.
I have also never done any rendering, this is of course nothing to do with inexperience, it's simply a fact that I hated doing it at college and I still hate it now. I had to do it at college but I certainly didn't like it.
I wouldn't mind being on a rendering job with someone who knows what they are doing, but I wouldn't dare to tackle any rendering myself.

its like telling an Eskimo how to surf can't you pay someone to do it?
 
if theres enough room for a free standing stud frame of 2x2 timber you could also insulate it and plaster board over the top and keep the stone work incase whom ever owns the property some years later to look after as should you knock off the face of the stone work off its hard to put back. Or do as jcrplast has put and make a feature of it. Or you could do what i did last year to an old cottage with very bad stone work and that was to pva the walls and dab 40mm insulated plaster board over it, okay it was not at all flat or level but thats what the builder and client wanted, i just skimmed over it all to look old as could be and a lot easyer to do than you think.
 
I think 2x2 stud work would make the area too narrow.
there are door frames and the timber the banister is fixed to that had been fixed to the old plaster. so what ever method I use to re cover the walls can't be thicker than the old plaster.
whatever method was used in the first place seemed to work, who ever did it certainly didn't have to worry about the uneven walls.
 
I thoght this was his house please don't say its a job and he hasn't got a clue what he's doing? What a coont
 
if theres enough room for a free standing stud frame of 2x2 timber you could also insulate it and plaster board over the top and keep the stone work incase whom ever owns the property some years later to look after as should you knock off the face of the stone work off its hard to put back. Or do as jcrplast has put and make a feature of it. Or you could do what i did last year to an old cottage with very bad stone work and that was to pva the walls and dab 40mm insulated plaster board over it, okay it was not at all flat or level but thats what the builder and client wanted, i just skimmed over it all to look old as could be and a lot easyer to do than you think.

you're alot better at being rough than you think fair play
 
You really are a clown spunky.
of course this is my house. I have dot and dabbed on to stone walls before, just not walls as uneven as the walls in my house are.
 
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