damp questions

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DavetheDog

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hi lads i have been to see a damp job and have some questions for you before i know to price it. the man is doing the injection coarse and just wants me to plaster over it. i have read on some sites that the sand and cement scratch coat should be 1 and a hlf centimeters and the second coat the same but some of the plaster above is only about a centimeter wide but other bits are twice that so some of my rendering would only be a centimter altogether. wht do you do in that situation. also i want a neat edge on the bottom i was going to screw or nail battern into the wall is that the way it is done? also if i try and float the top coat and rule it off against the batten and the top half of the wall plaster it wo'nt be flat because the top wall is really unflat and different thicknesses. what would you do here? it is 56 square metres and i am thinking a day to scratch and prepare aday to float and a day to skim so hree days for me and my dad to mix plus the hire of the mixer and the materials so about 1200 ...:RpS_thumbup: thanks guys. i have floated a wall but not done a damp coarse before but it is a straight forward job
 
Just be aware because of the waterproof chemicals involved if you scratch coat one day with a view to second coat the next?? Your second coat will stay wet all day and slide in places going on the thicknesses your talking about??
I would scratch as many walls I know I could also manage top coating the same day :RpS_thumbup: and as the top edge (piecing) is uneven don't worry just keep your work the same as the existing! Just ensure you rule your skirting level nice and flat.
When you've done your cementing work leave it a few days before skimming it :RpS_wink:
 
thanks mate. so top coat the same day ? its not what i learned if it is about three centimetres wide in places is that too much to put on in a day would it slump? so it is okay to put it on only about a cetimeter in placces as long as there is waterproofer.do i put the battern on marshy? so the top part of the plaster that has not been taken off is called piecing:RpS_thumbup:
 
you are from this arae marshy is that a real price i do'nt want to price to low i case it looks unprofessional but i do'nt want to price too much in case i do'nt get the work
 
If the original render is that thin ,it may be worth taking it off a bit higher, to reduce the risk of any salting on the joint , then as Marshy said blend them in ,we cut back the new render by a few mm , so the plaster does not make a ridge when done , best of luck with it :RpS_thumbup:
 
Sorry dave on way to wales at mo. The lads have all posted good advice for you as for a batten?? Dont bother mate. You said its near me?? As for price? Id rather not get involved not being funny if your happy with it then thats all that matters. Its all part youre learning curve. :thumbup: if i am near to you and you get stuck i dont mind popping by to help put you straight? :)
 
Nisus said:
You could do the Bearwood Brown Damp Proof System Dave :RpS_thumbup:
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do you think dave would be ok attempting this,, he is quite new to plastering dave have you seen the vids nisus has very kindly put on here for us all to see,, this is what i love about this forum, nisus could have kept this new system to himself but is more than happy to share with fellow members
 
leebo02 said:
do you think dave would be ok attempting this,, he is quite new to plastering dave have you seen the vids nisus has very kindly put on here for us all to see,, this is what i love about this forum, nisus could have kept this new system to himself but is more than happy to share with fellow members
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we are very lucky to have @Nisus on the forum :thumbup:
 
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I know what you mean Lee but you cant knock his confidence ?? Ive offered to even pop round ?? As he said its near me?? Cant say fairer than that ?? :confused:
 
Marshy said:
we are very lucky to have @Nisus on the forum :thumbup:
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thanks guys had to pop out as well lol. sorry marshy i meant i am in north so northern prices. so no need for batten just start an inch above the holes form the injection and thats it? would it help me as a beginner to have them just to get a straight edge or does it loomk unprofessional or should i ask them to put skirting boards on and skiim to them. thats if i get the work lol
 
also they have said about a garantee do i just write something down like i garantee the plaster wo'nt crack or fall off for ten years is there something on here i can copy? sorry were are the videos for nisus?
 
sorry one moer so it is okay to do two coats up to 3 cm wide in one day? the weight of second coat wo'nt pull off the first coat before it has set> so scratch in the morning and then float second coat in the afternoon and so long as it is just flatish because the skim will cover it?
 
lol nisus i did'nt realise it was a spoof until about the fiurth video cheers mate how do you put a video on here i have one to shos from youtube of a man doing a damp coarse for opinions
 
Spoof.....what do you mean spoof........av went out and got all the new gear I need for dampproofing now........have a been had on here or what FFS
 
Yep thats an idea for you dave @laser says that dri coat aint bad and could easy build the thickness same day :thumbup:
 
Steady on arti its easily available but the kingfisher stuff is bang on but you have to order it
 
Marshy said:
Steady on arti its easily available but the kingfisher stuff is bang on but you have to order it
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Just an opinion marra. It's not a patch on Kingfisher, limelite and sovereigns gear.. Dri coat is bulked out with gypsum that's why it's half the price off the other 3. And damp & gypsum are a poor combo
 
Artisan998 said:
Just an opinion marra. It's not a patch on Kingfisher, limelite and sovereigns gear.. Dri coat is bulked out with gypsum that's why it's half the price off the other 3. And damp & gypsum are a poor combo
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After reading up on the stuff (last time you sent me the info on kingfisher stuff and I never looked back) only mention DRI coat as its stocked in merchants and easily available
 
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