damp questions

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right il try and explain best i can..... ive been to look at the ground floor of a 3 story property(1900apx) where the back wall is undergroud by only a meter its 7.5 meters long by 3, the two end walls are about 5m long and only half is under ground the frount wall is all above ground and leads to another room aprox 4 x4m.

there is damp in the wall which is under ground aprox 1m high x7.5
there is damp aprox 2 meters high in the end walls and the whole external wall and small room has damp floor to ceiling and none of its under ground.

the obvious solution for me is to tank the walls which are under ground which would be the back and end walls where damp, there is evidance of multiple dpc injections where its above ground but its clealy failed so i was thinking about tanking floor to ceiling on the external walls. (tank using soverign k11)

problem beening that im creating alot of expence in mats and the walls arent plumb so alot of work floating with s&c
i considered tanking then dot n dab to reduce labour costs but there would have to be a drying period for s&c,
sovergn suggested using the membrane (eggbox stuff) u fix to wall and install air bricks, then can dot n dab to which i would use floor to lid in small room and floor to lid on external wall then use k11 tanking on the area thats under ground....

basicly... ive neverused this membrane before, is it hard to do? do you think this is the best solution? and what would i charge to install this stuff (aprox 40m) private message prices please..

(externaly the bricks are painted and the pointing is prittys sound, the room has not beened used as a living space for many years, no cavity)


thanks guys
 
The sensible thing to do here is to get a chartered surveyors report with recommendations, follow that to the letter. These Jobs can bite you in the ass, a possible reason for the problem is no heating and bad air flow, condensation etc(and black mould by the way)? With no cavity the wall will always be cold,
My advice is to get the newton system , screw it to the wall as specified, screw insulated foiled back board on top, stops the damp and adds insulation in one, losing only 75mm tops.. but I would start with surveyor...
 
The cavity drain membrain is the way to go.

Either dab plasterboard or batten then insulate between the battens and plasterboard.
 
Well try doing that on random stone walls, if its brick i would render the walls with sbr render to ceiling height then tank the whole wall.

used the egg box and i aint a fan its just like putting visqueen on the wall.

Just dot and damb insulated plasterboard its the future and no cold spots.
 
No heating damp course and air flow have this all the time in students floats. They dry there clothes on the radiators. Worst case we have to dig it out and tank it. Plus the above.
 
theres no black mould or evidance of condensaion, there is a rad which wrks and no damp in floor.
adapt your method is what i considered first, i would do this using soverigs k11 to tank... but you cant dot n dab on to it so you would need another coat of s&c. this would then take a couple weeks to dry before i could board onto it. was wondering if the membran wud be more cost effective for cutomer.
 
You cannot cut corners with damp, it always comes back on you.

why not stud it after its tanked with metal stud work?

Personally i think the egg box stuff is better on the outside of the house than the inside.
 
You could tank it, then plaster with either lime lite renovating or dri coat, and skim a couple of days later.
 
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