damp course

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GDS

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builder wants me to chip old plaster away after hes getting a damp course done, any oinfo for me , i thaught the person doin the damp course took it all back to the brick ? to do it , i got the impression hes allready done the course and the old plaster is still on the wall,????
 
he said that they drilled holes ond injected something , sorry but i dont know much about damp courses just what hes told me, plus is it ok to bond a low suction wall with a lot of pva save rendering?
 
Gaz be very careful, damp is usually mis diagnosed and in my opinion injecting fluid into bricks will not solve any damp problems. He will want you to render with sand and cement with a waterproofer in, but the problem is if its been mis-diagnosed which it probably has been the problem will be passed to you if damp re-appears. Most damp firms usually try this trick, inject then get someone else to do the plastering then any guarantee is void. Have a word with your builder and explain that if the damp re-appears you wont be held responsable, hack it off three foot up and render with sand and cement with a water proofer then skim next day, if your on a price maybe price to hack off and to apply.
 
scratch with a 4-1 with a waterproofer in, then top coat weaker 5-1 without the waterproofer rub up leaving a key and skim the next day.
 
I don't trust those silicon damp injection treatments. They tell you that it all seeps through and forms a continuous barrier. Yea right! Thoroseal is what you want, or a tanking slurry. Hack off, scratch coat, Thoroseal, tight scratch coat, skim. Worked in my house.
 
TonyM said:
I don't trust those silicon damp injection treatments. They tell you that it all seeps through and forms a continuous barrier. Yea right! Thoroseal is what you want, or a tanking slurry. Hack off, scratch coat, Thoroseal, tight scratch coat, skim. Worked in my house.


tony what was the problem in the first place?
 
did work for a damp proof company for several years,best to give the wall an sbr slurry and render with waterproofer in both sratch and top coat of render on the same day we never had any come backs and try and use washed plasterering sand as normal building sand will still have salts in it
 
plaster should be chopped back before injections, make sure you leave at least 1 inch gap between floor and new plastering. put the fact you won't be held responsible for any damp reappearing in writing and get him to sign it! good luck!
 
You could use Dri-Coat it's made by British Gypsum and is designed for use after a new damp course has been put in, it's also cement based
 
flynnyman said:
tony what was the problem in the first place?

Usual thing. Mortgage company sends round a surveyor who says house is damp.They say yes you can have the mortgage but put in a dampcourse. It's an old granite house with 2'6" thick walls. Real problem is that the house is sealed up with Everest double glazing and the windows are never opened as the house was empty for a couple of years prior to us buying it. I'm not saying there was never any damp there, but not to the extent the surveyor reckoned. We've since put in traditional sliding sash windows with trickle vents and done a lot of replastering with waterproofers etc, and house is good. Enquired about going down the lime plastering route but cost and time was prohibitive.
 
TonyM said:
flynnyman said:
tony what was the problem in the first place?

Usual thing. Mortgage company sends round a surveyor who says house is damp.They say yes you can have the mortgage but put in a dampcourse. It's an old granite house with 2'6" thick walls. Real problem is that the house is sealed up with Everest double glazing and the windows are never opened as the house was empty for a couple of years prior to us buying it. I'm not saying there was never any damp there, but not to the extent the surveyor reckoned. We've since put in traditional sliding sash windows with trickle vents and done a lot of replastering with waterproofers etc, and house is good. Enquired about going down the lime plastering route but cost and time was prohibitive.



biggest con in the world......................robbin bastards
 
started out labouring for plasterer worked for timber wise it a damp proofing ferm hack of meter high, float out with dry coat its ready mixed and designed for the job, make sure you leave a key only had one come back where a slurry coat was needed but all jobs where acessed by specialist befor hand not builders
 
Best thing I find on this type of work is to get the spec from the installer of the damp course or from the manufacturer of the injection fluid.
 
jm said:
started out labouring for plasterer worked for timber wise it a damp proofing ferm hack of meter high, float out with dry coat its ready mixed and designed for the job, make sure you leave a key only had one come back where a slurry coat was needed but all jobs where acessed by specialist befor hand not builders

accessed by a specialist bullshitter...
 
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