Cracks are mainly a substrate issue ?
Can cracks be stopped by mesh ?
What’s your views
Sounds like your pissed off mate with the rendering gameEither way book will always stop with applicator!
Ive almost come to the concluion that every job shoul be enough profit to allie to be able to be done again if needed!
Sounds like your pissed off mate with the rendering game
Nope but that’s not the question lol ?tell me something did the old school use to mesh there scratch coat?
LolEither way book will always stop with applicator!
Ive almost come to the concluion that every job shoul be enough profit to allie to be able to be done again if needed!
No and guess what....but not all the time.Tbf.tell me something did the old school use to mesh there scratch coat?
I worked on the same basic eight designs of house for fifteen years. Now unusually in this day and age the builder didn't rush things along and the blockwork had often bee stood for twelve months or more before I rendered/plastered them. It didn't take too long to get to know exactly where cracks would appear on certain house types. Initially I would paper and EML over the cracks and later on started to use fibreglass mesh embedded in the scratchcoat. The cracks never came back through using paper/EML but did on a couple using the fibreglass mesh. Obviously I dropped the fibreglass mesh and carried on using paper/EML.Cracks are mainly a substrate issue ?
Can cracks be stopped by mesh ?
What’s your views
Thanks, what I mean is why all of a sudden does everyone put a £90 roll of mesh over a whole house now compared to back in the dayNope but that’s not the question lol ?
Thanks, what I mean is why all of a sudden does everyone put a £90 roll of mesh over a whole house now compared to back in the day
It depends on what you call back in the day?.When I started in 86 it was not available to my knowledge but others may know different.Thanks, what I mean is why all of a sudden does everyone put a £90 roll of mesh over a whole house now compared to back in the day
Cracks are mainly a substrate issue ?
Can cracks be stopped by mesh ?
What’s your views
Thanks, what I mean is why all of a sudden does everyone put a £90 roll of mesh over a whole house now compared to back in the day
We rendered a couple of sites on fluted flettons and there never seemed to be any cracking, and they were laid with S&C.an area to be rendered would be built with keyed bricks,laid on a bed of lime mortar, as these are now to expensive , it is all block work, built with a strong mix of sand and cement.
We rendered a couple of sites on fluted flettons and there never seemed to be any cracking, and they were laid with S&C.
Well you know as well as I that people struggle to work with lightweight blocks Malc. And that's brickies as much as spreads. Muck is usually way to strong.when we was NHBC registered ,we often received advice to use keyed flattens and add lime to the mortar to receive render.
we have stripped new properties of their render and redone for the NHBC. these were often on lightweight blocks.
Only in uk they are laid on with s&c and the strength of the mortar has nothing to do with this, it’s the suction they can’t overcome. Any other country in the world uses special adhesive, apart from Africa maybe .Well you know as well as I that people struggle to work with lightweight blocks Malc. And that's brickies as much as spreads. Muck is usually way to strong.
mudOnly in uk they are laid on with s&c and the strength of the mortar has nothing to do with this, it’s the suction they can’t overcome. Any other country in the world uses special adhesive, apart from Africa maybe .
sorry u disagree andy but seen to many fck ups not mine don't do itI have said this before boys s@c render does not do what it says on tin leave it alone too many issues if it goes tits up people quick to slag u
I've done many many S&C renders over a variety of substrates and much prefer it to bagged materials.sorry u disagree andy but seen to many fck ups not mine don't do it
cant comment never done bagged gear mainly a Victorian internal man / if u ever up my way give u a few days free fishing pike and courseI've done many many S&C renders over a variety of substrates and much prefer it to bagged materials.
Cheers Norman, you never know I might just make the journey.cant comment never done bagged gear mainly a Victorian internal man / if u ever up my way give u a few days free fishing pike and course
Either way book will always stop with applicator!
Ive almost come to the concluion that every job shoul be enough profit to allie to be able to be done again if needed!
That wasn't why we were laughing at you mate.people laughed at me when I have said that in the past![]()
Yeah I have seen the adhesive used locally a couple of times.Only in uk they are laid on with s&c and the strength of the mortar has nothing to do with this, it’s the suction they can’t overcome. Any other country in the world uses special adhesive, apart from Africa maybe .
think your right pal local sand is a big issue brought up in Lancashire work in isle of man for years been in Scotland last 35 sand is a big issue back in lancs on site work seen thermo walls split to fck cuase gear to strongYeah I have seen the adhesive used locally a couple of times.
Overstrength brickies muck does cause lots of cracking. I remember a builder sending a sample of the local sand off to the manufacturer of Durox blocks and they recommended a 16:1 mix be used.
4.1 mix will crack light weight blocks straight down a wall .But you can't explain to bricklayers. It's the same principle as render that the mix must be weaker than the substrate to be covered.Yeah I have seen the adhesive used locally a couple of times.
Overstrength brickies muck does cause lots of cracking. I remember a builder sending a sample of the local sand off to the manufacturer of Durox blocks and they recommended a 16:1 mix be used.
16:1 holyshit balls that's weakYeah I have seen the adhesive used locally a couple of times.
Overstrength brickies muck does cause lots of cracking. I remember a builder sending a sample of the local sand off to the manufacturer of Durox blocks and they recommended a 16:1 mix be used.
Yeah that sand goes rock hard at 10:1, literally a job to tidy up your internals before skimming.16:1 holyshit balls that's weak
Cracks are mainly a substrate issue ?
Can cracks be stopped by mesh ?
What’s your views
Back in the day I think build quality was far higher mateThanks, what I mean is why all of a sudden does everyone put a £90 roll of mesh over a whole house now compared to back in the day
0011 hrs on a Sunday morning and Lox is up worrying about cracks in render. You need a week at the seaside, my lad. Maybe even a month.
correct matean area to be rendered would be built with keyed bricks,laid on a bed of lime mortar, as these are now to expensive , it is all block work, built with a strong mix of sand and cement.
Agree Jon !At first sight, it is presumed the applicator has got it wrong somewhere but that is not always the case.
The substrate can be wrong for example, the blocks have just been laid, wrong strength. But also structural cracking. I have seen plenty of that.
Weak blocks can be overcome but that's if we know. Concrete blocks look like concrete blocks, how are to know what strength they are? Then there is the ignorance of the client being told but they ignore your advice and you get told to get on with it.
As for applicator error? Yes, that is possible. base coats not cured enough, rendering tight up to expandable surfaces like soffits and frames. Wrong materials on the substrate like for example, Mono on cement particle board.
But when a crack happens and it is not obvious why then it is easy to blame the applicator and hold back payment. Unless the applicator can prove his innocence, then he is deemed guilty. A bigger problem is when the applicator knows what caused the problem and he is not believed. That is when the s**t hits the fan!