Cracks, Cracks and more Cracks

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addyb

New Member
Hi
First post here, so go gentle on me. I'm not a plasterer, but I've worked in property, developing, renovating etc, even involved with building, labouring and have worked with and for many plasterers over the years. 99% of the properties we've been involved with have never had problems, or at least never been reported to myself, yet ironic enough, my own rental property seems to be a plasterers nightmare.

At the time of buying the property in question, the plasterer i was working with it the time was up for doing it. Him and myself boarded walls which required it room a time, and he skimmed it. apart from the kitchen which was completly boarded, most rooms had one maybe 2 walls boarded, the rests were solid, and were just skimmed.

Having worked with this guy on and off for a good 3 years, i know his work and know he is good. Depending on the room, some walls were pva'd and boarded over old plaster, others were taken back to brick PVA'd and boarded, a a couple were taken back to concrete (its a poured concrete house with a cavity and a brick outer skin) PVA'd and boarded. All walls were Dot and dabbed and boarded in 12mm, scrim taped, joints filled where needed etc.

Within about 4 weeks of the kitchen being plastered, every board joint had cracked. not big gaping cracks, but a very fine hairline cracks. We didnt think much of it, bit of easy fill sand paint. but they slowly came back. Next took it a step further, racked out the joint, filled, sanded, painted, again, cracks slowly came back. this pattern has been consistent on near enough every boarded wall in the house. just very fine cracks down every joint.

other plasters on jobs we've spoken to have had their opinion, some saying 'you didn't scrim it', i know he did, i was there). others saying 'its fine, its settling, just keep filling', others saying 'this happens, its just the nature of dry lining' and some saying 'this should never happen on plasterboard'.

We are at a bit of a loss, as i've honestly never returned to any job he's done for me or ive done with him and seen this. dont get me wrong, you see the odd one here and there, but not to the extent of this house. he even jokes about never working in this property again as it makes him look bad.

Any ideas? All the boards feel solid, even distribution of dabs, solid sounding. the cracks dont expand when pressed. Its even very solid sounding where the cracks are, so its not like its flexing along the joint. the wall on the stairs is particularly bad, as because of height the boards were staggered, but again, all very straight, along the joints, but the joints sound solid. One plasterer told me its the tape. And that scrim tape now days is crap, and we should use paper tape like the old days.

Thanks
 

flynnyman

Well-Known Member
Hi
First post here, so go gentle on me. I'm not a plasterer, but I've worked in property, developing, renovating etc, even involved with building, labouring and have worked with and for many plasterers over the years. 99% of the properties we've been involved with have never had problems, or at least never been reported to myself, yet ironic enough, my own rental property seems to be a plasterers nightmare.

At the time of buying the property in question, the plasterer i was working with it the time was up for doing it. Him and myself boarded walls which required it room a time, and he skimmed it. apart from the kitchen which was completly boarded, most rooms had one maybe 2 walls boarded, the rests were solid, and were just skimmed.

Having worked with this guy on and off for a good 3 years, i know his work and know he is good. Depending on the room, some walls were pva'd and boarded over old plaster, others were taken back to brick PVA'd and boarded, a a couple were taken back to concrete (its a poured concrete house with a cavity and a brick outer skin) PVA'd and boarded. All walls were Dot and dabbed and boarded in 12mm, scrim taped, joints filled where needed etc.

Within about 4 weeks of the kitchen being plastered, every board joint had cracked. not big gaping cracks, but a very fine hairline cracks. We didnt think much of it, bit of easy fill sand paint. but they slowly came back. Next took it a step further, racked out the joint, filled, sanded, painted, again, cracks slowly came back. this pattern has been consistent on near enough every boarded wall in the house. just very fine cracks down every joint.

other plasters on jobs we've spoken to have had their opinion, some saying 'you didn't scrim it', i know he did, i was there). others saying 'its fine, its settling, just keep filling', others saying 'this happens, its just the nature of dry lining' and some saying 'this should never happen on plasterboard'.

We are at a bit of a loss, as i've honestly never returned to any job he's done for me or ive done with him and seen this. dont get me wrong, you see the odd one here and there, but not to the extent of this house. he even jokes about never working in this property again as it makes him look bad.

Any ideas? All the boards feel solid, even distribution of dabs, solid sounding. the cracks dont expand when pressed. Its even very solid sounding where the cracks are, so its not like its flexing along the joint. the wall on the stairs is particularly bad, as because of height the boards were staggered, but again, all very straight, along the joints, but the joints sound solid. One plasterer told me its the tape. And that scrim tape now days is crap, and we should use paper tape like the old days.

Thanks
Is it an end house? Have you had the loft converted or had any tall trees cut down?
 

Vincey

Private Member
Ahhh my speciality
The crack debate...just like the screw head pop off thread there is only 2 options in this scenario my friend..
1.My all time favourite..Easy fill never lets me down or

2.Get in contact with @Fatarm or @keithuk apparently they are good at filling cracks in..

The dirty old dogs
 

jamesthefirst

Private Member
Tricky one this as you say he has been good so far and sounds like not his fault,pva the wall then paper tape cracks and skim again at your cost of course. Or leave it all together or wood chip.
 

Marshy

Private Member
May sound daft but not enough adhesive used dabbing? You property developers love to save cash on everything you can :birra:
 

Fatarm

Trainee mod
Ahhh my speciality
The crack debate...just like the screw head pop off thread there is only 2 options in this scenario my friend..
1.My all time favourite..Easy fill never lets me down or

2.Get in contact with @Fatarm or @keithuk apparently they are good at filling cracks in..

The dirty old dogs
Long time since I filled any cracks vince:X3:
 

Pagey

Private Member
Think you might need the meter roll scrim/mesh and reskim something is a miss here because i find it strange the whole house is cracking on dot and dab the technical and white book standard is on a 12.5mm board it's 3 dabs across and six down on a 9.5mm its 4 across and 6 down,so as has been pointed out it's probably not been done correctly maybe I'm becoming to suspicious on here I think after the prices questions and other stupid questions plastering isn't an exact science but if you come in with a genuine question there are many on here who are very knowledgeable and you will get a answer other than that the best phrase on here is go on YouTube
 

uni-king

Private Member
Think you might need the meter roll scrim/mesh and reskim something is a miss here because i find it strange the whole house is cracking on dot and dab the technical and white book standard is on a 12.5mm board it's 3 dabs across and six down on a 9.5mm its 4 across and 6 down,so as has been pointed out it's probably not been done correctly maybe I'm becoming to suspicious on here I think after the prices questions and other stupid questions plastering isn't an exact science but if you come in with a genuine question there are many on here who are very knowledgeable and you will get a answer other than that the best phrase on here is go on YouTube
Kin ell pagey u don't do solid bands!! Shame on you
 

uni-king

Private Member
A closed fillet at the top solid band on internals and at skirting line and around doors and windows only was talking about a board in general
Lol only messing pal..f**k solid bands unless its getting air tested..hear it all time its got to be solid bands lads its getting air tested etc so wed do it and lads nxt door wud use 8 bags to dot a 3 bed house and us nuggets are using 30 bags plus
 

Pagey

Private Member
Lol only messing pal..f**k solid bands unless its getting air tested..hear it all time its got to be solid bands lads its getting air tested etc so wed do it and lads nxt door wud use 8 bags to dot a 3 bed house and us nuggets are using 30 bags plus
Solid bands are more for the thermals than air but it defo helps they reckon you can only get 2-3 boards out of one bag as well
 

Jgreenplastering

Private Member
Solid bands are more for the thermals than air but it defo helps they reckon you can only get 2-3 boards out of one bag as well

There's nothing thermal about a gypsum dab. It's air test as Kitchy says.
Plus stop telling Porkies Pagey you don't solid dab for s**t!
You put enough on yea but we know you don't do as you said in the last post! We still think the same of you don't worry!
 

Pagey

Private Member
There's nothing thermal about a gypsum dab. It's air test as Kitchy says.
Plus stop telling Porkies Pagey you don't solid dab for s**t!
You put enough on yea but we know you don't do as you said in the last post! We still think the same of you don't worry!
I think you should really think about what you said there go back read the technical data on how a dot and dab system really works weather its knauf Bg or sinat I think u will find solid dabs are for thermals and I quote if you read back that yes it helps with air test but solid dabs are for thermals hence why you do them at Windows doors ect please check your facts at your age and giving it the biggun check facts before you shoot someone down
 

Jgreenplastering

Private Member
I think you should really think about what you said there go back read the technical data on how a dot and dab system really works weather its knauf Bg or sinat I think u will find solid dabs are for thermals and I quote if you read back that yes it helps with air test but solid dabs are for thermals hence why you do them at Windows doors ect please check your facts at your age and giving it the biggun check facts before you shoot someone down

Christ have you had a beer?
That is utter jibberish!
You've just repeated yourself in every sentence you've wrote. Touched a nerve did I! [emoji23][emoji23][emoji23]
 

Pagey

Private Member
Christ have you had a beer?
That is utter jibberish!
You've just repeated yourself in every sentence you've wrote. Touched a nerve did I! [emoji23][emoji23][emoji23]
No beer mate considering I don't drink your making yourself look a fool because you profess to know everything about plastering yet don't even know how a dot and dab system works run along little boy haven't you got some colouring in to do
 

Jgreenplastering

Private Member
No beer mate considering I don't drink your making yourself look a fool because you profess to know everything about plastering yet don't even know how a dot and dab system works run along little boy haven't you got some colouring in to do

[emoji23][emoji23][emoji23][emoji23] wow that's nerve twitching ain't it!
 

lucius

Well-Known Member
Poured concrete walls sucks like hell even after uni bonding adhesive may have pulled in to quick and not stuck properly.
 

Vincey

Private Member
Wicked thread started about cracks now we are either thermal or air side...
I going with more thermal
I am a bit thick but hey sod it

It's more thermal for me
 
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