Assume burner has enough clearance , have you got a liner installed or just a pipe to register plate , was it professionally installed
Chimney breast shouldent crack. I'd understand if round the fire would. Carlite bonding good whith heat. Other options board it whith whatever sutible to heat.
Thanks.Nice job, proper old school including the temporary frame. Guess you'll put the air grille on the other (right) way up when you decorate!
If you paint the inside the chamber, use the cheapest emulsion i.e. with the least amount of plastic additives.
The trouble with putting wood burning stoves in an aperture that size is all the heat from the stove heats the brickwork up and you see no benefit from it.I lime rendered our breast. Filled in the recessed mortar joints with horse haired lime then followed the spec from Mike Wye support team.
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I was advised not to use any beading around the aperture - metal will expand and crack the plaster and plastic will melt. So I made a temporary frame pinned with dutch pins.
It was originally a 1930s but someone had gone mad in the 70s and added more bricks with a massive brick hearth which I have replaced with slate.
5Kw stove - installed by diligent HETAS guy who suggested some modifications. Definitely worth running past a pro first as there are specific rules around distance between stove and combustibles.
Not a quick job (took me weeks with 10 days curing for the thicker coats).
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The trouble with putting wood burning stoves in an aperture that size is all the heat from the stove heats the brickwork up and you see no benefit from it.