Cracked ceilings again

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ganoble

New Member
I have a real problem with cracked ceilings in my bungalow
The boards have not been overlapped when put up amd the movement is causing the cracks to open up winter to summer.
I have tried to improve ceiling in my bathroom by screwing at 6inch centre either side of board and re artexed,this has improved and the subsequent cracking was less visable,
As my lounge is 26ft x 14ft with two cracks accross i want to be sure that the problem can be solved.
All my ceilings are artexed and i would prefer to have them reskimmed.
A further point is that the cracking has also gone through the coving.So a fair bit of movement
Can any one help.I will not be doing the repairs myself so would welcome any advice regarding finding a tradesman to do the work

ganoble
 

malc

TPF Special Forces
it is heavy if it has cracked the cove aswell.
i would remove the cove. cover the ceiling with 12mm ply,[ ply has got great strength] with screws every 100mm. plasterboard ,skim ceiling and replace cove. if that cracks i want to see it!
 

martinemj

Well-Known Member
it is heavy if it has cracked the cove aswell.
i would remove the cove. cover the ceiling with 12mm ply,[ ply has got great strength] with screws every 100mm. plasterboard ,skim ceiling and replace cove. if that cracks i want to see it!

what a good idea....!

was going to say maybe add aditional timber ceiling joists
 

andydee

New Member
actually malc thats a very good idea. Ive had many clients with large ceilings with that same problem. Normally as you know the timbers breathe especially when theres a damp atmosphere in a non ventilated loft, and it HAS to crack. I normally paper tape and use joint filler skim over the tapes before a plaster reskim. There has been times that still hasnt worked. At times if the ceiling is good condition apart from cracks I just use standard fibre tape and skim 2 or 3 coats of joint filler over and feather in. Decent decoration you cannot tell. But for ongoing failures although expensive your ply board idea sounds good :)
 

ganoble

New Member
Cracked ceilings

Thanks for your comments
I live in Great Yarmouth Norfolk ,might be a good idea to get a professional to have a look.
Any help in thaat direction would be appreciated.
 

raggles

Private Member
Thanks for your comments
I live in Great Yarmouth Norfolk ,might be a good idea to get a professional to have a look.
Any help in thaat direction would be appreciated.

You should be able to see if your loft is vented yourself quite easily if it is you will have one of the following fitted to your roof Ridge vent, slate or tile vent and soffit vents. just google any of the latter if you are not 100% sure what to look for.
 

malc

TPF Special Forces
actually malc thats a very good idea. Ive had many clients with large ceilings with that same problem. Normally as you know the timbers breathe especially when theres a damp atmosphere in a non ventilated loft, and it HAS to crack. I normally paper tape and use joint filler skim over the tapes before a plaster reskim. There has been times that still hasnt worked. At times if the ceiling is good condition apart from cracks I just use standard fibre tape and skim 2 or 3 coats of joint filler over and feather in. Decent decoration you cannot tell. But for ongoing failures although expensive your ply board idea sounds good :)

we have put ply and over layed plasterboard on ceilings several times, we have had no futher problems with cracking.
we also do it on high spec, new build housing , on stud walls to when there has been structural problems
 

andydee

New Member
well new builds, ive done some enormous ceilings done in steel framework. Never any problems with cracking there, just good boarding and standard fibre tape and skim. All about the timbers i think to blame.
 

ganoble

New Member
Hi Malc
I think your suggestion on boarding sounds the more permanent solution.
Before i get someone in to do it i would like to have a little more info on board used and method.
Could you help with info ie did you use 8x4 x12mm ply and would a 6x3x 10mm board do the job
 

casplas

Active Member
the bigger the board the less joints , meaning fewer places to crack or move equals more strength , 12mm 8x4 ply ,over board with 8x4 12.5 mm plasterboard , with this said dont cover board for board i.e were you start with a ply sheet (full) put a half sheet plasterboard ,try not to make a joint run alway through to original ceiling . if 8x4 is to big or heavy for you use 6x3 12.5mm, hope this helps good luck with it. :RpS_thumbup:
 

carlos

Private Member
Use 8*4 ply and 6*3 plaster board and the joints will stagger naturally. I would screw the plaster board through the ply into the joists.
 

malc

TPF Special Forces
we use 8x4 ply staggered joints. then start to plasterboard, 8x4 again from the opposite side of the room so we then stagger the both the 8ft and the 4 ft joints in the ply. all the rest as above.
 

johniosaif

Private Member
i like to do a job with no come backs. we do this method for structural engineers , architects ,and insurance co. and it solves the problem.
We all like to avoid comebacks, I only ply for spine walls and sometimes dwarf walls in houses,
 

DannyMac

Private Member
2*1 battens fixed with 4" screws into the joists at 400 centres is plenty strong, imho.

Yep, 2x1 is cheap as chips too and only takes half an hour. Plus you save time boarding and you're not adding shitloads of weight. No brainer if you ask me...
 
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