Coving - non 90 degree angles?

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If you take the projection from the wall out. Pencil in two lines parallel to the wall you can measure back from the vertical in the corner the angle of the cut by offering up a full length of cornice. The cut point will be where the two lines intersect
 
20130919_143146_zpsaf37bca0.jpg
like that lol
 
As said above.. say for eg. ur using 100mm coving measure along ceiling and walls 67mm strike lines and were they bisect.. that the angle you want, just place the coving dry and transfer the angle to the coving..
 
If say the coving has a wall depth of 100mm and a ceiling projection of say 150mm

1. mark down the wall 100 mm all around the room.

2. Go around the room measuring each length.

3. If the cut has two internal mitres cut pieces to length with straight cuts. if there are external mitres add 100mm (to be safe i would add 150mm) for each external mitre you have

4. Now go back to the first piece you marked and cut Hold the length of cornice in position and draw a line along the ceiling, do this for every length.
now go back to the first piece and hold it back up, there should be a point where two lines cross. that is where you cut the mitre back to.

DO NOT fit the first piece until the NEXT piece is help up and marked! Otherwise you wont be able to offer up the next piece and mark it.

simples.

Im fitting some cornice tuesday, so will do this method and take a few pictures to help a few out.
 
If say the coving has a wall depth of 100mm and a ceiling projection of say 150mm

1. mark down the wall 100 mm all around the room.

2. Go around the room measuring each length.

3. If the cut has two internal mitres cut pieces to length with straight cuts. if there are external mitres add 100mm (to be safe i would add 150mm) for each external mitre you have

4. Now go back to the first piece you marked and cut Hold the length of cornice in position and draw a line along the ceiling, do this for every length.
now go back to the first piece and hold it back up, there should be a point where two lines cross. that is where you cut the mitre back to.

DO NOT fit the first piece until the NEXT piece is help up and marked! Otherwise you wont be able to offer up the next piece and mark it.

simples.

Im fitting some cornice tuesday, so will do this method and take a few pictures to help a few out.

Hi Mike, thanks for the advice. Some pics would be great as my tiny brain is struggling!

so once the coving is marked, how do you cut it? I've only ever done right angles with a mitre block!
 
If say the coving has a wall depth of 100mm and a ceiling projection of say 150mm

1. mark down the wall 100 mm all around the room.

2. Go around the room measuring each length.

3. If the cut has two internal mitres cut pieces to length with straight cuts. if there are external mitres add 100mm (to be safe i would add 150mm) for each external mitre you have

4. Now go back to the first piece you marked and cut Hold the length of cornice in position and draw a line along the ceiling, do this for every length.
now go back to the first piece and hold it back up, there should be a point where two lines cross. that is where you cut the mitre back to.

DO NOT fit the first piece until the NEXT piece is help up and marked! Otherwise you wont be able to offer up the next piece and mark it.

simples.

Im fitting some cornice tuesday, so will do this method and take a few pictures to help a few out.

A vid would be better @mikeadams1985
 
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Hi Mike, thanks for the advice. Some pics would be great as my tiny brain is struggling!

so once the coving is marked, how do you cut it? I've only ever done right angles with a mitre block

same as i said mate..lol... what you mean how do you cut it.. ??
 
If say the coving has a wall depth of 100mm and a ceiling projection of say 150mm

1. mark down the wall 100 mm all around the room.

2. Go around the room measuring each length.

3. If the cut has two internal mitres cut pieces to length with straight cuts. if there are external mitres add 100mm (to be safe i would add 150mm) for each external mitre you have

4. Now go back to the first piece you marked and cut Hold the length of cornice in position and draw a line along the ceiling, do this for every length.
now go back to the first piece and hold it back up, there should be a point where two lines cross. that is where you cut the mitre back to.

DO NOT fit the first piece until the NEXT piece is help up and marked! Otherwise you wont be able to offer up the next piece and mark it.

simples.

Im fitting some cornice tuesday, so will do this method and take a few pictures to help a few out.

Good advise. Should end up like this

231041_1799973678015_154637_n.jpg
 
Quality coving there Mark and beddy, can appreciate the patience behind that...:RpS_thumbsup:
 
If say the coving has a wall depth of 100mm and a ceiling projection of say 150mm

1. mark down the wall 100 mm all around the room.

2. Go around the room measuring each length.

3. If the cut has two internal mitres cut pieces to length with straight cuts. if there are external mitres add 100mm (to be safe i would add 150mm) for each external mitre you have

4. Now go back to the first piece you marked and cut Hold the length of cornice in position and draw a line along the ceiling, do this for every length.
now go back to the first piece and hold it back up, there should be a point where two lines cross. that is where you cut the mitre back to.

DO NOT fit the first piece until the NEXT piece is help up and marked! Otherwise you wont be able to offer up the next piece and mark it.

simples.

Im fitting some cornice tuesday, so will do this method and take a few pictures to help a few out.
If the projection is 150 mike then that's what you would add on for your externals ,I would add another 30/40 mm on top of that to be honest,think you got your depth and projection the wrong way round,:RpS_blink:
 
WOOPS! Yeah i got my depth n projection mixed up, but yeah add on about 50mm to what ever the projection is to cover yaself!

Im fitting some coving on monday so will do a little video of the marking, cutting and fitting etc etc.
 
FFS lads it's not rocket science, it's basic angles & marking out skills! :huh:

But for internal mitres though I use these corner pieces for ease of use after I've tiled a kitchen or bathroom they're so easy & look great once painted :RpS_thumbup:

photo_zpsc1af7c33.jpg


For external mitres I don't worry too much if it's out a mil or 2 I just fill with the adhesive & again once painted no one would know & looks great from my house :RpS_cool:

photo_zpscd786e7a.jpg


For any other angle just wing it & fill out :RpS_thumbup:
 
Oh sorry....
yer tiling is top notch too marra .. .:)

Cheers marra customer is well happy :RpS_thumbup:


I forgot to get them plastic bead thingys but she said don't worry Lol.
she's a good laugh for 89 :RpS_biggrin:

photo_zpsc4c85506.jpg
 
I thought there was tile beads!!
Feck. me your good:RpS_thumbup:
did you get her up to the bank before it closed?

The old biddies love a tour in a tranny ..:RpS_wink:
 
I thought there was tile beads!!
Feck. me your good:RpS_thumbup:
did you get her up to the bank before it closed?

The old biddies love a tour in a tranny ..:RpS_wink:

Haha how did you know lol was you spying one me :RpS_laugh:
Yeah she loved it in the transit belting down the lanes before bank closed on the Friday :RpS_thumbup:
 
I was outside the bank... waiting on my o.a.v.!:RpS_wink:
you don't have to take them into the bank.:rolleyes)
 
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Another stupid question to further humiliate myself.

so you cut pencil mark to pencil mark freehand, what angle do you hold the saw at as this surely has an effect on the join?
 
You just want to make sure you have something at the back. Of You hold it too proud you end up with a joint like () in the middle
 
You can hold it in a mitre block with ceiling edge on base & wall edge on side nearest you, then over hang it out the box & cut free hand on your pencil marks.
Otherwise you'll get the vaginal opening cut as Beddy demonstrates above above :)

I just hold it as I said but on a flat surface like hop up or plank & hang it over & cut it.
 
You can hold it in a mitre block with ceiling edge on base & wall edge on side nearest you, then over hang it out the box & cut free hand on your pencil marks.
Otherwise you'll get the vaginal opening cut as Beddy demonstrates above above :)

I just hold it as I said but on a flat surface like hop up or plank & hang it over & cut it.

As much as I love a vaginal opening, I'll try to avoid this one! Thanks guys.
 
A quick explanation with pictures on cutting mitres, that are note 90degrees.
Although the pictures here are done on 90degree walls, its the same concept. Done just to show you.


This is what your aiming for....with regards to marking up.

This cornice sits 150m down the wall and 150mm along the ceiling.

first step is to mark 150m down the wall, and string a line around.


then, hold an offcut or length of cornice cut to the size needed on the line

and draw a line along the ceiling as shown here, do this for both pieces that require cutting in this mitre

jTaUyXAIdpvH9c9C7DPJpyqy9EORIfBCBDmx20-zQJY


after offering up and marking both lines on the ceiling offer up the peice again and mark on the cornice the part where both lines cross...like so..


_zGLBJtZaIkZVuD1630kRCQr3MFasD9pY6XxMx4_wpw



Should end up with something like this once both pieces are cut, fitted and filled.



VZnq373_l4fvfmjskwaiZ-pTo8f4m6zDQqzRickDxZc
 
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