cost per linear metre dryzone injection?

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Jurek

Jurek

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what's a ballpark cost per linear metre up north for injecting dryzone cream or equivalent? only the injection, not the hacking off and replastering. that's for me to do. just trying to work out how much some "specialist" is earning on a job. he doesn't do the hacking off and replastering, just the cream ..... :RpS_sneaky:

sounds like a piece of p1ss.

muchas gracias
 
they're charging a touch over £600 for 23 metres ..... :RpS_unsure:

sounds like a licence to print money to me. how long would that take? a day? sds out. drill some holes, inject, and your done ....:cool:

£26 per linear metre, roughly. just the cost of the cream really ..
 
The cream gets you about 3 metres per tube ....... In both sides of cavity or a solid wall right across it , depending how much you buy at a time sure its between 20-28 quid a tube , if he has a little machine you can get tubs that you link up depends how he injects it :) if u luk on dryzone website theres a price list which includes the app gun
 
Meaning you could probably knock 50 quid off the total once you had the gun :) hope this helps u matey :RpS_thumbup:
 
The gun is £80!! Thiefing bastards, Soverign's is even more!

20 odd a sausage I think bit more for Soverign's..

To get it properly guaranteed they will want you to use there backing coats and skim as well a lot of the time.

I'm not a full believer in these creams tbh as I've never seen a sound brick line at floor level I may start pricing for ka tanking on these 9" thick walls this year just for piece of mind

Or maybe just tank the external walls as they usually seem to be the worst culprit for it, then inject the rest of the internals..

What's peoples opinion on this?
 
I've never been a fan of injecting whether it be the old style which gave a 25 year garuntee (yeah right, I've redone a lot of these and the firms that gave the garuntee are long gone!) I've seen this cream system as well but I prefer tanking when I can. The damp stuff is common sense cavity walls need cavity cleaning out etc (a lot don't bother) and solid walls are best tanked. I know there are different scenarios for any job and should be dealt with accordingly.
 
Marshy said:
I've never been a fan of injecting whether it be the old style which gave a 25 year garuntee (yeah right, I've redone a lot of these and the firms that gave the garuntee are long gone!) I've seen this cream system as well but I prefer tanking when I can. The damp stuff is common sense cavity walls need cavity cleaning out etc (a lot don't bother) and solid walls are best tanked. I know there are different scenarios for any job and should be dealt with accordingly.
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My thought exactly, I've regularly speak with Soverign's reps and the last one I did 9" walls they said to just inject which I did because at the end of the day it's there guarantee so what do I know...
 
Sadly Spanky a lot of the time this is the case and despite what we think? Its over ridden by the firm giving the garuntee! I did one (won't mention the company name) and same thing its an old farm building with solid stone walls with a lot of salt coming through and they injected cream!! F' knows why and only applied grey slurry up to about 12 inch high!?? I told their rep exactly what I thought but did the plastering exactly to spec and guess what!?? It failed !! They tried to blame me (typical) but when I went back to argue with them they then said it should have been tanked!! Sometimes its like why are you wasting mine and the customers time and money!?? I hate having to go back to a job especially when the issues are not your fault.
 
Marshy said:
Sadly Spanky a lot of the time this is the case and despite what we think? Its over ridden by the firm giving the garuntee! I did one (won't mention the company name) and same thing its an old farm building with solid stone walls with a lot of salt coming through and they injected cream!! F' knows why and only applied grey slurry up to about 12 inch high!?? I told their rep exactly what I thought but did the plastering exactly to spec and guess what!?? It failed !! They tried to blame me (typical) but when I went back to argue with them they then said it should have been tanked!! Sometimes its like why are you wasting mine and the customers time and money!?? I hate having to go back to a job especially when the issues are not your fault.
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On the button yet again my customer so first stop will be with me if and when it goes wrong as you say hate rework whoever is at fault

Stone = lime..

But personally would try a breathable plaster although they ant cheap either
 
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Yep bang on Spanky, those lightweight breathable plaster is a good call as I said each job warrants its own approach? For what its worth this job I posted about was over 3 years ago now and its still fine as I see the guy whose house it is regular enough and he is the type to definatley say something if it wasn't right.
 
SpankySouthport said:
On the button yet again my customer so first stop will be with me if and when it goes wrong as you say hate rework whoever is at fault

Stone = lime..

But personally would try a breathable plaster although they ant cheap either
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I never use S&C now when i replaster. i always use a renovating plaster its more expensive but its a much better product. plus ive not injected many properties as it normally other things causing the damp.............mainly bridging of the DPC
 
Artisan998 said:
I never use S&C now when i replaster. i always use a renovating plaster its more expensive but its a much better product. plus ive not injected many properties as it normally other things causing the damp.............mainly bridging of the DPC
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The last time I used renovating plaster was limelite and the awful finish what goes with it? Some on the forum reccomend dri-coat? I've never used it what do use Arti?
 
Marshy said:
Thanks Arti is that easy enough to get hold of at the merchants or is it a case of ordering online?
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This is your local rep from there website. give him a call and he can sort you out some trade prices. you normally get your order the next day.

Lancashire​
Andy McGlason​
07815 060204​
 
Artisan998 said:
This is your local rep from there website. give him a call and he can sort you out some trade prices. you normally get your order the next day.

Lancashire​
Andy McGlason​
07815 060204​
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Nice on Arti just been online and have a free app with all the stuff on etc. Do they stock the IMO bonding agent lol :RpS_wink: gonna put his number in my phone thanks again :RpS_thumbup:
 
IMO is the future my brother...................anyway av been way to helpful on this thread..........need to start takng the p1ss on another thread or people will start thinking im G** or something..................:rolleyes)
 
thanks for the info. only went out to clean the van and came back to all this :RpS_thumbup: when you work out the figures they're on a fair whack then for a nice simple injection .... easy money. strange they didn't quote for the hacking off and replastering .... :RpS_sneaky: maybe the landlord's telling fibs and they did but they were too pricey ...... uhm ..maybe they have priced it and went way over the top so that they can blame the plasterer that follows them if it fails ...turned down two of these at the end of last year because of that scenario, but i've worked for this landlord before and don't really want to tell him to get someone else.
 
Jurek said:
thanks for the info. only went out to clean the van and came back to all this :RpS_thumbup: when you work out the figures they're on a fair whack then for a nice simple injection .... easy money. strange they didn't quote for the hacking off and replastering .... :RpS_sneaky: maybe the landlord's telling fibs and they did but they were too pricey ...... uhm ..maybe they have priced it and went way over the top so that they can blame the plasterer that follows them if it fails ...turned down two of these at the end of last year because of that scenario, but i've worked for this landlord before and don't really want to tell him to get someone else.
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If you have worked for him before you have some trust with one another, just explain if you are unsure if the people doing the injecting have done it correctly? And get them to provide the plastering spec so that way you are covered instead of doing your own method as then it will be a big grey area of who is to blame should it fail??
 
SpankySouthport said:
The gun is £80!! Thiefing bastards, Soverign's is even more!

20 odd a sausage I think bit more for Soverign's..

To get it properly guaranteed they will want you to use there backing coats and skim as well a lot of the time.

I'm not a full believer in these creams tbh as I've never seen a sound brick line at floor level I may start pricing for ka tanking on these 9" thick walls this year just for piece of mind

Or maybe just tank the external walls as they usually seem to be the worst culprit for it, then inject the rest of the internals..

What's peoples opinion on this?
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Ive used dryzone quite a bit seems to work well. definetly tank the solid walls and clean out cavitys on ones that have one. I prefer to do full kingfisher tanking system now appose to sovereign as i found the rep doesnt know his arse from his elbow and there always moving goalposts etc. Plus kingfisher have been ok with using multi to finish where as sovereign sell you there renderlite finish which is like spreading tile adhesive and takes about 6 hour to set!

I'm using The Plasterers Forum Mobile App
 
Aye jurek tk add to mine i rendered to about 1.8m high with the waterproofer that goes with the dryzone cant remember the bloody name of it atm lol
 
I would think damp problems depends which part of the UK you live in. In my area most of the town is built on marsh land . so a high water table has always been there. Also I taking note over the years the different kind of bricks used in building the homes . Some are just a soft red glaze with 8 half inch holes cast in the brick when fired other have 3 big 2" holes some bricks are so hard almost like a steer foot brick. So let say you drill the bricks with the holes in them as soon has the fluid starts to pour in it just floods the brick and you waste fluid the hard brick well you could be there all day trying to inject a brick. If anything salt is the problem in my area and very often not treated for.
And then we go onto the rendering side of dpc , Who the feck said it;s ok to render at 3-1 s+c all your doing is trapping moisture in the brick work, creeps up the wall until blows out on the old lime rendering or even just blows the render off the wall seen this so many times. Also have to say guilty of this myself in the past. The rentokill copper strip well thats for another time.
 
We use which ever cream is on offer when we need to order it. Whether it be permagards, dryzone, wykamols one or what ever. When we order cream its around 50 1 litre cartridges at a time though.

I reckon most creams are available in 300cc cartridges that fit a normal mastic gun.
 
henry said:
I would think damp problems depends which part of the UK you live in. In my area most of the town is built on marsh land . so a high water table has always been there. Also I taking note over the years the different kind of bricks used in building the homes . Some are just a soft red glaze with 8 half inch holes cast in the brick when fired other have 3 big 2" holes some bricks are so hard almost like a steer foot brick. So let say you drill the bricks with the holes in them as soon has the fluid starts to pour in it just floods the brick and you waste fluid the hard brick well you could be there all day trying to inject a brick. If anything salt is the problem in my area and very often not treated for.
And then we go onto the rendering side of dpc , Who the feck said it;s ok to render at 3-1 s+c all your doing is trapping moisture in the brick work, creeps up the wall until blows out on the old lime rendering or even just blows the render off the wall seen this so many times. Also have to say guilty of this myself in the past. The rentokill copper strip well thats for another time.
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I think that's why everyone uses cream now. Its in the joint, so it don't matter how hard the bricks are.
 
Jurek said:
thanks for the info. only went out to clean the van and came back to all this :RpS_thumbup: when you work out the figures they're on a fair whack then for a nice simple injection .... easy money. strange they didn't quote for the hacking off and replastering .... :RpS_sneaky: maybe the landlord's telling fibs and they did but they were too pricey ...... uhm ..maybe they have priced it and went way over the top so that they can blame the plasterer that follows them if it fails ...turned down two of these at the end of last year because of that scenario, but i've worked for this landlord before and don't really want to tell him to get someone else.
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Whoever does the injection should guarantee it and then they should spec the replastering that you should follow to the letter. Anti sulphate solution should always be part of the spec to kill the salts before plastering IMO

I'm using The Plasterers Forum Mobile App
 
aye. they're injecting and spraying. didn't have the spec sheet today, even though i asked over the phone. just a piece of paper with a felt tip diagram of what needed hacking etc and the landlord said it had to be sand and cement and waterproofer. high tec stuff

i'll wait for the exact spec :RpS_thumbup:
 
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