colouring plaster

pinz

pinz

Member
hi guys im very new here and really looking for an answer few years back I tried to change the colour of multi finish I did this by adding cement dye but as we all know multi finish is pink and changes colour as it drys i used a red as i thought it would be ok with the pink but didn't work

is there a way of having any colour plaster??? (without painting it) lol
 
I have seen it done on the interweb.
But I'm affraid not sure how and I can't remeber what site.
Lucidato comes in loads of different colours, but that's mainly slaked lime not gypsum.
Maybe have a look into the lucidato.
You can go on a course and learn how to do it by a few companies now.
The polished plastering company are a good outfit they in Keighley, Yorkshire.
 
pinz said:
hi guys im very new here and really looking for an answer few years back I tried to change the colour of multi finish I did this by adding cement dye but as we all know multi finish is pink and changes colour as it drys i used a red as i thought it would be ok with the pink but didn't work

is there a way of having any colour plaster??? (without painting it) lol
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Great idea .. Outside render products have coloured finishes and they seem to be getting more and more popular..
Internal coloured plaster of your choice, well that would be a game changer for sure.
Have you done anymore experimenting ?
 
Hi, fairly easily done. There are many available products or brew your own. For diy dry mix oxide with bagged gypsum or lime. Take a look at some of my work here : https://www.facebook.com/Stewart.Plaster.Hamilton/ also look for the link on my page to Kirk Giordano, he has an amazing wealth of knowledge and replies to most comments and queries.

In New Zealand you are looking at $500 for a pail of Sto or similar product. To get a bag of Vasari from america cost about $80(+300-500 Shipping), or I can get a dozen bags shipped for about $3,700.

Needless to say I brew my own.

There is a great write up here : https://www.earthpigments.com/tinting-gypsum-plasters-with-ochers-and-pigments/ and several good books available in hardcopy probably via amazon, or ebooks via google books.

The main thing is test, test, test. Keep a notebook, and get your sampleboards signed off.

Cheers
 
H-Block said:
Hi, fairly easily done. There are many available products or brew your own. For diy dry mix oxide with bagged gypsum or lime. Take a look at some of my work here : https://www.facebook.com/Stewart.Plaster.Hamilton/ also look for the link on my page to Kirk Giordano, he has an amazing wealth of knowledge and replies to most comments and queries.

In New Zealand you are looking at $500 for a pail of Sto or similar product. To get a bag of Vasari from america cost about $80(+300-500 Shipping), or I can get a dozen bags shipped for about $3,700.

Needless to say I brew my own.

There is a great write up here : https://www.earthpigments.com/tinting-gypsum-plasters-with-ochers-and-pigments/ and several good books available in hardcopy probably via amazon, or ebooks via google books.

The main thing is test, test, test. Keep a notebook, and get your sampleboards signed off.

Cheers
Click to expand...

Welcome along, Some very nice work on your facebook page and can i just say i'm loving the van. It is a morris isn't it ? first van i ever had was a morris minus the windows though.
 
H-Block said:
Hi, fairly easily done. There are many available products or brew your own. For diy dry mix oxide with bagged gypsum or lime. Take a look at some of my work here : https://www.facebook.com/Stewart.Plaster.Hamilton/ also look for the link on my page to Kirk Giordano, he has an amazing wealth of knowledge and replies to most comments and queries.

In New Zealand you are looking at $500 for a pail of Sto or similar product. To get a bag of Vasari from america cost about $80(+300-500 Shipping), or I can get a dozen bags shipped for about $3,700.

Needless to say I brew my own.

There is a great write up here : https://www.earthpigments.com/tinting-gypsum-plasters-with-ochers-and-pigments/ and several good books available in hardcopy probably via amazon, or ebooks via google books.

The main thing is test, test, test. Keep a notebook, and get your sampleboards signed off.

Cheers
Click to expand...
Thanks for sharing the links this is one thing I definitely looking into.
If it works in gypsum finish,spot on
Welcome to forum
 
raggles said:
Welcome along, Some very nice work on your facebook page and can i just say i'm loving the van. It is a morris isn't it ? first van i ever had was a morris minus the windows though.
Click to expand...


Thanks Raggles, yeah the van is a NZ Assembled 1969 Morris Minor LCV, back windows were standard in New Zealand, you see the occasional UK edition here. For some reason vans arent as sought after as the Ute. Ive had it about four years now, cheaper to purchase and maintain than a Toyota - mind you it has a Datsun A12 with 5speed Gearbox - everything else is original, goes like a robbers dog around town, and holds its own on the open road. Its brought much joy and many comments, only sinage is the number plate surround, its good word of mouth.

I got the habbit from my old Dad who hails from Co. Derry, hes done a ground up rebuild on a 1952 Austin A40 Devon, a 52 or 53 Ferguson Tractor, is currently working on an early 70's MGB. My Mrs has a 1967 Morris 1100 with a rebuilt 1300 engine in it too.
 
theplasterman said:
Thanks for sharing the links this is one thing I definitely looking into.
If it works in gypsum finish,spot on
Welcome to forum
Click to expand...

Thanks Plasterman. A friend sent
me this link the other day



This guy is basicly adding Universal Tint to Lime Based Top Coat - I think hes pushing it a bit with how much its watered down. Anyway, the key here is using a good strong sealer, and having spoken ti guys who do oxided concrete driveways and whatnot the big thing is to maintain that sealer coat every 5-10 years depending on the usage/traffic. In a wet area Id say reseal every two to five years. I often seal with a water based sealer for porus substrates, then wax as well for added protection and the touch, people love to touch the walls, and the wax sends it over the edge for tactile sensibility.

A better video for Gypsum is this one



The coments on this vid is where you will find the real pearls of wisdom.

Cheers - Have fun with it
 
H-Block said:
Thanks Plasterman. A friend sent
me this link the other day



This guy is basicly adding Universal Tint to Lime Based Top Coat - I think hes pushing it a bit with how much its watered down. Anyway, the key here is using a good strong sealer, and having spoken ti guys who do oxided concrete driveways and whatnot the big thing is to maintain that sealer coat every 5-10 years depending on the usage/traffic. In a wet area Id say reseal every two to five years. I often seal with a water based sealer for porus substrates, then wax as well for added protection and the touch, people love to touch the walls, and the wax sends it over the edge for tactile sensibility.

A better video for Gypsum is this one



The coments on this vid is where you will find the real pearls of wisdom.

Cheers - Have fun with it
Click to expand...

Thanks
 
hstoke said:
U love that guys work especially the 2nd vid - top man
Click to expand...
Been looking into colouring of it for a while ..
I am a bit of a weirdo :hola:

Got to much work on to have a dabble myself anytime soon but defo going to have a bash by the end of the year.
 
I do 99% colored plaster here. I use universal tints you can get at the paint store and try to get you wet plaster apx. 2 shades darker on the color wheel as your target color. You have to pay attention to how you trowel the wall because you will have some streaking from the trowel strokes if you aren't watching. (Also don't use any water when troweling down unless you want the streaked look)

You can also do a tinted wax on top. Finished up this one last week using a tinted wax over untinted plaster. (5:1 clear to dark brown briwax. Make sure to finish trowel in different directions when you lay down the texture to avoid it looking too uniform)
colouring plaster


Here in the states our plaster is white which will change things for you though. (Well more of a light grey but close enough.)

I believe our diamond veneer plaster by USG is equivelent to your multi-finish from what I've read but I could be wrong on that.

Use a syringe or a gram scale to get exact amounts from mix to mix. You can get a good one from a hospital supply place or even some specialty garden stores have them here.

I get mine from amazon:

Measure Master Garden Syringe, 100 mL/cc 3.4oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002JLJDQ0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_SmvBzbJX36HJ5
 
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