Can you dot and dab straight onto external facing wall

Daveo82

Member
Plasterer has said this is the best thing to do as can't build a timber frame due to window sill as boards would come past it and sand and cement would take too long to dry - I'm worried it's going to cause problems after reading the forums please can someone advise

Also it is not a cavity wall it is brick wall in a 1930s house
 

Dansouthcoast84

Private Member
not much info there mate.
hiw.much room have you got to play with. whats reason for.using boards and not render which should only be approx 15mm total.
ideally a thermal plasterboard would be nice to.insulate the wall. but if insulation not option then standard dryline and skim
 
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Deleted member 29624

Guest
Plasterer has said this is the best thing to do as can't build a timber frame due to window sill as boards would come past it and sand and cement would take too long to dry - I'm worried it's going to cause problems after reading the forums please can someone advise

Also it is not a cavity wall it is brick wall in a 1930s house
Do you have damp issues with the wall?
 

Jim85

Active Member
External solid walls pull moisture thru on dot and dab unless u use an insulated board with pir or eps on back. But then it will still come out too far for the window cill. So you're better off using sand and cement and skim next day.
 

Daveo82

Member
External solid walls pull moisture thru on dot and dab unless u use an insulated board with pir or eps on back. But then it will still come out too far for the window cill. So you're better off using sand and cement and skim next day.
Thanks Jim been told sand and cement will take a month to dry is that true?
 

Daveo82

Member
not much info there mate.
hiw.much room have you got to play with. whats reason for.using boards and not render which should only be approx 15mm total.
ideally a thermal plasterboard would be nice to.insulate the wall. but if insulation not option then standard dryline and skim
Window sill would be covered completely and cant take out as have built in shutters - been told the Dabs will crest cold patches and cause damp issues
 

Daveo82

Member
External solid walls pull moisture thru on dot and dab unless u use an insulated board with pir or eps on back. But then it will still come out too far for the window cill. So you're better off using sand and cement and skim next day.
Could they use mechanical fixings straight into the wall?
 

TheWand

Active Member
Sand and cement then skim you can't have it always,might take a bit longer to dry but will do the job.
You would get cold spots from the render leading to possible condensation. An insulated board woukd be more suitable imo
 

theclemo

Private Member
U won't get a better job then sand and cement and skim. Dabing a plasterboard on to a solid wall is a s**t job. Can't for the life of me understand why people do it. Well I can it's easyr. But I always give the client the choice. And don't hold back saying how s**t dot and dab is.
 

gps

Well-Known Member
What's the big problem with the window sill lol just replace it with a bigger one FFS
 
Last edited:

zombie

Private Member
What's the big problem with the window sill lol just replace with it a bigger one FFS

Correct!!!

Its like when people say they don't want to loose the height when over boarding a ceiling!!! Wtf!!!!

Coockoo coockoo coockooo
 

jamesthefirst

Private Member
I would consider this or maybe st astier version?


http://www.l*m*-g***n.co.uk/products/lime-plaster/solo-onecoat-plaster
 

Jgreenplastering

Private Member
If a chippie can't suggest cutting out the sill and replacing with a like for like one only with more depth then there not a chippie.
Like wise if a spread just wants to dab and not render it, then simply put it's because they can't/don't want to do it the correct more skilled way!
Use a renovating plaster, this has more similarity to gypsum backing coats in the way it is applied which makes it easier to use. It also has a much better U-value than sand and cement which isn't actually that hard to use and will just be more time consuming. I prefer to allow my sand and cement a good week to cure a bit in between coats and skimming which prolongs the jobs but reduces cracking/crazing.
All depends if you want a good job or just a quick cheap job.



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