bonding or dot n dab it

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gitznshiggles

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Hi chaps - Ive got a lounge to do in a Victorian Terrace House. The old plaster is literally falling off of the walls in places, and in others its solid-ish where its been previously repaired with bond n skim..

The problem is that the owner wants to keep the original plaster coving at all costs. So do I

1 - knock the old stuff off back to the brick, lay on a backing plaster to the right depth and skim to finish with the coving
or
2 - knock the old stuff off back to the brick, and dot n dab it.

I have a slight concern that unless i use 9.5mm (which i dont like either) board with not a lot of adhesive, my boards will finish with very little margin or even slightly proud of the coving, and once skimmed could look fking awful..

Im swaying towards option 1 if im honest cos i think i can get a better finish to the coving, anyone got any opinions?
 
option 1 seems to be the right choice. If you can , leave the original plaster on about a few inches down from the cornice to give yourself something to rule to. Other than dot and dab , you could possibly fix a suitable size studding to the brick then screw your boards on depending on your cove margin.
 
cheers joejoe but the brick walls are all over the place - fixing any battens to em would be a nightmare to get plumb - ill do as you suggest and chip it off leaving a level at the top of the wall -- nice one cheers
 
thanks as always for the help guys - any reason why you would render instead of gyp based, thermal U value, more breathable etc...
 
that and i prefre render to float with

thats fair enough - i gotta say i find hardwall/bonding much easier to lay on, but maybe thats just me... the brick i was talking about is engineering brick and i couldnt believe how much it sucked in... despite being wire brushed first and then pvad, i always thought that engineering brick wouldnt suck too much moisture being shiney but fek me was i wrong,.. was hoping to do this room in hardwall or bond cos it seems to go on so much easier.

back to the drawing boards - ahhh to be a noob eh.. fookin mint
 
Right - I had a look at removing the old stuff and it looks like someone at some point has had some damp problems... the bottom half of the bay is rendered (see pic) so ill have to render the rest of the wall too.. I had wondered if to add a little SBR to mix but am always a little unsure using waterproof additives on internal walls.


The best bit i found in this room was a blocked up doorway that had been fillered and painted then wall papered... it was half blocked with plasterboard and the other half was ply...
 

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looking at the pic .. definately s&c as its an external SOLID wall... these walls are prone to damp so has to be S&C as PB's and no gypsum product is waterproof (unless its renovating plaster). Are u sure they are eng bricks? strange to see on a wall like that.. If they are I would rake the joints and maybe scruff the bricks, and then dust down. There is plenty of key there for rendering as the joints alone in the bricks are frequent enough unlike blocks.

As for the waterproofer thing... I would put waterproofer on both coats of the render as putting waterproofer in the top coat will equalise the suction for the multi finish, I thought this was common practise to put WP in internal rendering..
good luck
 
With out question...def float and set with s and c .Survey integrity of substrate before over laying and take to task any brickwork issues before hand. Most importantly consider the key offered by the substrate and address accordingly.
 
Spark - its actually a cavity wall of brick, there hard as nails and deep red, the only other give away of eng bricks is the shiny surface but i cant see that on the inside so maybe they are something else, or maybe years of old plaster has dulled the faces... either way theyve been cleaned up with a wire brush and will get the s&c render treatment. Ill add SBR to the mix.

Mark - beautifully written advice, will do :eek:)
 
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