Bonding coat over KA Tanking Slurry?

vinnye

New Member
Advice needed please!
My sisters shower room has had a new flooring screed put down and the guys who did it noticed some damp around the bottom of the external walls,
I have removed tiles and hacked plaster back to about 3 ft in height.
My plan is to clean the brickwork down and apply 2 coats of KA Tanking Slurry.
Then apply a coat of bonding to build out he level so that I can dot and dab a moistyre resistant plaster board from floor to ceiling.
Is it OK to use bonding over slurry?
 

Nicm

Well-Known Member
Advice needed please!
My sisters shower room has had a new flooring screed put down and the guys who did it noticed some damp around the bottom of the external walls,
I have removed tiles and hacked plaster back to about 3 ft in height.
My plan is to clean the brickwork down and apply 2 coats of KA Tanking Slurry.
Then apply a coat of bonding to build out he level so that I can dot and dab a moistyre resistant plaster board from floor to ceiling.
Is it OK to use bonding over slurry?
Don’t go near it if you don’t know what you’re doing and have to ask questions like that.Put your hand in your pocket and pay someone well that does.That’s what they spend years learning and making a living at.You’re penny pinching and looking for free advice to save a poxy few pound and probably going to make a f**k of it anyway.
 

vinnye

New Member
Thanks for the replies.
I have been outside and there is no obvious sign of water ingress - the pebble dash coating appears to be sound.
The damp, I am assuming is rising damp and that is why the original screed was taken up and replaced. I also am presuming that a damp proof membrane was put under the screed to prevent it happening again?

The reason why I asked if I could use Bonding to pad out the brickwork to the same level as the existing plasterwork was because someone in a previous Tanking thread suggested it.
As I was unsure if it was a flippant response or not, I asked my question.
I was hoping that I might have received a more positive / constructive response on a Forum about Plastering - especially in the DIY section!
 
Last edited:

Brimstone

Well-Known Member
And does the pebble dash extend past the DPC down to the ground maybe?
Don't assume anything, ask the screeding guys the question.
If the dpc has failed then redoing it, e.g chemical injection, would be more appropriate, rather than hiding the problem behind something and pretending it does not exist.
 

vinnye

New Member
I am driving over to her house ( 90 mins on a good day) in the morning, I will have a look how far down the pebble dash goes when I get there. I think there are a couple of courses of brick showing below it, but not completely sure, It was done maybe 30 or more years ago by Local Council.

I am not in contact with the flooring guys - my sister is and I have asked her about it and she says yes damp proof membrane put down under screed.

I am now considering using treated timber batons to space the boards out level with the existing plaster. I will drill holes and use silicone in them to avoid breaking tanking layer.
The board adhesive will then have a chance to dry out before eventual tiling.

Many thanks for the replies.
 

ChrispyUK

Well-Known Member
I am driving over to her house ( 90 mins on a good day) in the morning, I will have a look how far down the pebble dash goes when I get there. I think there are a couple of courses of brick showing below it, but not completely sure, It was done maybe 30 or more years ago by Local Council.

I am not in contact with the flooring guys - my sister is and I have asked her about it and she says yes damp proof membrane put down under screed.

I am now considering using treated timber batons to space the boards out level with the existing plaster. I will drill holes and use silicone in them to avoid breaking tanking layer.
The board adhesive will then have a chance to dry out before eventual tiling.

Many thanks for the replies.

why adhesive if using battens? There was probably problems 30 years ago if the council came and pebble dashed it. Tbf, you’re prob not going to get to the root of the problem, but chances are, you’ve got a cold wall and gypsum plaster that is being kept damp by condensation...only made worse because it’s a bathroom.
 

vinnye

New Member
why adhesive if using battens? There was probably problems 30 years ago if the council came and pebble dashed it. Tbf, you’re prob not going to get to the root of the problem, but chances are, you’ve got a cold wall and gypsum plaster that is being kept damp by condensation...only made worse because it’s a bathroom.
Thank you for your reply.
I was considering battens to bring the level of the stripped wall out to that of the remaining plaster - the thought was to then use a complete board to provide a flat surface for tiling. This was an alternative as the use of adhesive seemed to be frowned upon? I believe that this is due to the tanking not allowing the adhesive to dry out into the brickwork, meaning the water will be absorbed into the board. This may enable mold to form between the board and wall or on the board itself?
I thought that I has seen that using KA SBR Bond as a primer coat would solve this - similar to using it prior to Multifinish plaster?
 

Monkey Boy

Well-Known Member
Homer Simpson Reaction GIF by MOODMAN
 
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