Boarding and pinning?

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Rigsby

TPF Special Forces
Right, on all the training courses I have been on it is board and whilst still wet adhesive pin back. The theory being that the pins (fixings) will pull the board back tight whilst the adhesive is wet.

But if the wall is a bit on the wonky side the boards will follow the shape of the wall? Not ideal imo.

I have been watching quite a few you tube video's mostly what seem to be German and it looks like they dot and dab the boards to plumb and true and the boards are nice and flat to one another with little rasping required then they drill and pin. It makes sense to me except the adhesive will have set or at least be green and the hammer action could disturb the adhesive on the substrate.

So what do you lads think? I am tempted to do the German way on a out of true wall.
 
I would have it be nearer set than soft specially on uneven background ,personnel choice really but not much hammer action needed to get through board. bit like beading ,clean then level or level then clean . :RpS_blink:
 
we worked on a block of flats at hertford, where the gable end was out of plum. we rendered it in sand and cement to get it true.
the boarders where jugging the adhesive to get as much done as poss.
it was a mr system, so there was five pins in each board. which where done next day.
 
Could you drill them whilst the adhesive is wet, then nip em up later?

on some systems it is best to put the fixings into the scrim when it is wet,, so that the pin can be covered with the base coat therefore making a neat job.
some systems have the majority of the pins in the boarding and just the perimeter of the mesh pined. others have none in the boarding and every half meter through the mesh.
there are pull tests carried out first, to decide which pins to use that will hold the weight of the render.
 
i always find - this works best for me. have enough boarding ready to go sticking all the way so when you turn back pinning its already gone off, saves time choping and changing tool set over also from trowel/handboard to drill/hammer etc. once pinned and rasped i bead up entirely and spot the pin heads , then i turn back and mesh bead and pin heads are mostly set so no sinking.

you do need enough in front of you to keep this system moving though
 
straighten the wall first with a base coat if possible elieviating any voids behind the system hense no air flow or bug ingress behind the system.
 
**** me, i aint got a clue what you lot are one about !
You really screw the boards into block/brickwork after you have dabed boards on ? Christ im WAY behind times :)
 
**** me, i aint got a clue what you lot are one about !
You really screw the boards into block/brickwork after you have dabed boards on ? Christ im WAY behind times :)

not exactly

the fixing is a rawl plug with a big flat clout head bigger than a 50p coin (mushroom fixing) once you drill and fit the mushroom you just hammer the pin in through the centre, not like a threaded screw it just bangs home and opens the plug inside the wall

its not on every system but wind load and movement are factors so its not that unusual
 
The price of fixings are a chunk of change nowadays, just bought a load of Fischer mushroom plugs and they've gone up 8%
 
not exactly

the fixing is a rawl plug with a big flat clout head bigger than a 50p coin (mushroom fixing) once you drill and fit the mushroom you just hammer the pin in through the centre, not like a threaded screw it just bangs home and opens the plug inside the wall

its not on every system but wind load and movement are factors so its not that unusual
Ok.
still never seen it done ever on dot and dabbing :)
hang on ,is this external not internal,have I read it all wrong ! :)
 
external wall insulation, when you pin the board and the scrim to the base coats.
Right it's official ,I'm a ****, i must learn to read forum right to see which bit it is in.
i was wondering why the fook u would plug and screw plaster boards ,fooking numpty :RpS_crying:
 
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