Bad advice??

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We sbr'ed, sprayed and meshed a l knock off , let it cure for 6 days then SBR' ed the base before we applied the dash receiver from strong advice from a seasoned dasher, we noticed today that it wasn't the best and started to pull apart before we applied the dash. .This is not what we intended to happen. Weve decided to leave the walls for a few more days but we can only hope by the grace of god that we get a bit of suction.
Any advice
 
I have in the past had to sbr or pva other peoples scratch coats that has had suction. But timing is important. The adhesive needs to be tacky but laying on a wet adhesive is going to cause sliding and seperation.

Who's dash receiver on what base?
 
We just give it a wet down rather than sbr. You've not been given bad advice but you just need to be fly for it, don't go on it when it's too tacky or it will slide.
 
This reminds me of a job a few years ago. S&C scratch coat in December. The air was very damp and cold although the scratch looked dry. We decided not to wet down and put a 6mm coat of s&c dash receiver on. The wall had ansorbed so much moisture it was rippling on the scratches.

It was one of those jobs where you put yhe wall on, watch a film and it would still be too wet when you came back 2 hours later.

We had to be be very light on the shovel with that one and we had a few splits but got away with it.

On the other hand I had the opposite this last February. Put dash receiver on a ewi thin coat base at 8am temperature 3c. It appeared to be sucking in but I knew this base did not absorm water. It was found to be rapid drying. The heat absorbed into the insulation was making the teceiver dry out at 3c!

Lesson learned there. Tell the customer to keep the heating off the day before.

If this job is a mess but sets hard, then base coat over what you have, there will be loads of key. Scratch the base coat, dry out and dash with a receiver but this time dont use primer or adhesives, the base won't need it just a good scratch.

Loads of base coats to choose from. K Rends, Parex Maite or evem Parmurex, most ewi thin coats.
 
I just added water mate. But as we were spraying has a massive block up in machine while the lad had already sbr the wall. Found out that my machine didn't have the correct r/s for silicone render.. .
Thanks for everyone's input . Il try base coating over and taking it from there i just hope it adheres as the sbr has been on a while and already soaked in.

We live and learn
 
That would make the mix go tits up. My Ritmo struggled with SAS Silicone mono. Worst mono I have ever sprayed but seemed ok by hand.
 
I just added water mate. But as we were spraying has a massive block up in machine while the lad had already sbr the wall. Found out that my machine didn't have the correct r/s for silicone render.. .
Thanks for everyone's input . Il try base coating over and taking it from there i just hope it adheres as the sbr has been on a while and already soaked in.

We live and learn
What machine are you using? And what r/s did you have in it?
 
I use a clamp on my Rotmo L. Now on 1048 bags.

Tighten the two nuts up evenly and when you first fit it it will just want pinching up a bit.

If you keep it at 9-10 bar it will last ages. Always check it 3 times and take an average of the 3. My rotar is stainless though and costs more than black steel.
 
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