Hello what's your views on skimming over artex ceilings. I've always scrapped high points off the glued and skim over. Was speaking to an asbestos bloke on site today and he was saying I wouldn't scrap it etc especially if the house was built before 1985. I've scrapped loads in my time. Do you lot still scrap them now or do you bond then over then skim it. Thanks
Artex ceiling question??
- Thread starter brad123
- Start date
- Status
superspread
Well-Known Member
Normally board over
iowplasterer
Active Member
Anyone that knows or works with asbestos or been on a course says that!!! there is a tiny amount of asbestos in artex and it's not the bad bad type (even though it all is in reality) they always say for insurance reasons not to tamper but just to cover.
Asbestos was still used very widely in a lot of building products I believe even in the late 90s
Asbestos was still used very widely in a lot of building products I believe even in the late 90s
iowplasterer
Active Member
I've had customers who have moved into houses and had all ceilings replaced scared that there kids are being exposed to asbestos because survey reports when they bought house have said artex has a trace and that's all.
Rule of thumb is that you can cover but not expose/disturb
Rule of thumb is that you can cover but not expose/disturb
Not to put a downer on this. But you do have to decide yourself. I always overboard if possible. My dad died of asbestosis about 5 years ago aged 65. He worked with it not knowing the dangers of asbestos. So for me its not something to ignore. But saying that, i will overskim artex if i think its safe to do so
CTPlastering
Well-Known Member
I barely scrape if i do them , take the odd high bit off and bond it out then skim . Obv explain the problems to the customer first . If its light artex just build out and skim no scraping .
CTPlastering
Well-Known Member
Would try to over board and explain the benifits etc
Vincey
Private Member
I always don't touch if older than 1985 or if they/I not sure when was done.think your guy was spot on..having said that in my early days I used to just scrape and never asked or thought about it...I do bond or board it if I can't cover it with a couple of bags of skim.... if defiantly after 1985 I love to pull out me floor scraper and give it a once over.Sorry to read about your dad @peartree my mates dad was the same...
And what are the benefits. Apart from no artex !
iowplasterer
Active Member
Screw driver and hammer finds the joists.
If I had a ceiling where they were 720 apart I would have ripped the lot down and put noggins in then counter crossed it with batten.
If I had a ceiling where they were 720 apart I would have ripped the lot down and put noggins in then counter crossed it with batten.
iowplasterer
Active Member
More money
CTPlastering
Well-Known Member
Well half of the artex ceilings i do at least, have cracks etc and have been artexed for a reason . So for the cracks , even scriming them you cant say they wont re appear . Rather than all the weight sitting on what ever how ever it is fixed or all new boards fixed with screws no nails etc . Quite a few more but thats enough
So the artex is going to get disturbed with an hammer put through it think it's going to be overboard frOm now on. Plus don't mind abit of boarding gives you time off the trowel.
Si@realityplastering
New Member
1 - Re screw artex ceilings first stops airline cracks when skimmed
2 - uni bond
3- first coat thick skim trowel up till nearly set so no bubbles
4- reskim then done
Takes usually 3 hours
But done right and artex pattern won't soak through, seen a lot of people's artex showing and its shite
2 - uni bond
3- first coat thick skim trowel up till nearly set so no bubbles
4- reskim then done
Takes usually 3 hours
But done right and artex pattern won't soak through, seen a lot of people's artex showing and its shite
Do you always wba/thistle bond it first regardless, or will just PVA do if I haven't got any at the time?
Rossi46
Private Member
99 times out of 100 bonding agent. PVA can make it hard work sometimes. Depending how much the artex has been painted or certain patterns. At least with a bonding agent you know exactly what it's going to do and your not having to give it loads of pressure to lose the pattern.
Ahh cool. And probably a silly question but is artex generally thirsty/porus or does it usually behave?
One coat bonding agent enough for a good suction rate? I just thought bonding agent was for glossy non porus style paint where a physical key would be an issue....wouldn't artex be a great key?
Pardon my ignorance, still on the steep part of the learning curve haha
The trouble with this is that if you overboard heavy artex then the boards will be all over the place. Don't get me wrong I always wear a mask etc but hey something will get me eventually live for today is my motto. I rest easy at night knowing I'm very well insured in any eventuality
Rossi46
Private Member
It varies a lot. Old artex, new artex, painted artex, type of paint, smokey artex. A clean unpainted new artex is one where PVA would be ok. Bonding agents are designed for shiny surfaces but as long as the suction isn't too much and it's not drying too fast then it would be fine.
- Status