Advice please over previously painted bricks

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Mick061261

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hi guys, firstly if this is allowed, I'm a heating engineer/gas fitter so happy to try and help with any gas questions
I've just taken the roof off my bungalow and added a second storey, the existing common bricks had 50 years of paint and the new top part of the gables are in lightweight concrete blocks. I have put a Refina scabbler over the painted bricks and raked out the joints however there are still patches of paint ingrained in the brick faces.
My question is , the old skool renderers talk about a scud coat of sand and cement, would you add sbr to this and the subsequent scratch coat and finish?
Just slightly concerned that in years to come a crack may develop where the blocks have been laid on top of bricks on the gables?
Have decided on traditional sand and cement render due to cost and just need it to stay on the wall for 20 years before they put me in a nursing home lol.
Seriously, really appreciate your thoughts on a failsafe spec, thanks in advance.
 
You could incorporate a mesh to reduce the chances of a crack but if it's gonna move it's gonna move so maybe an expansion bead along the joint?
 
You could incorporate a mesh to reduce the chances of a crack but if it's gonna move it's gonna move so maybe an expansion bead along the joint?
This is how I would do it on my house. Roll of 4 inch or 6 inch stainless steel mesh (EML) over the joint and nail it in place with 20 mm galvanized clout nails. When rendering do not use a stronger mix than 5 to 1 sand and cement. I would use.6 to 1. Modern Portland cement.is really strong. Too strong a mix can pull away and crack on curing. Keep the ratio the same for scratch and top coats. I would also if it was my house buy a cheap fence sprayer and spray each section of the face brick with.neat SBR before applying scratch coat to it while SBR still wet. obviously a spread actually seeing the job may attack it a different way. Have fun [emoji3]

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This is how I would do it on my house. Roll of 4 inch or 6 inch stainless steel mesh (EML) over the joint and nail it in place with 20 mm galvanized clout nails. When rendering do not use a stronger mix than 5 to 1 sand and cement. I would use.6 to 1. Modern Portland cement.is really strong. Too strong a mix can pull away and crack on curing. Keep the ratio the same for scratch and top coats. I would also if it was my house buy a cheap fence sprayer and spray each section of the face brick with.neat SBR before applying scratch coat to it while SBR still wet. obviously a spread actually seeing the job may attack it a different way. Have fun [emoji3]

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Thanks Shadow and Flynnyman that seems like sound advice with the Eml.
So with the weaker 6:1 scratch and finish, would most spreads aim at 15-20mm total thickness or would that change?
I only ask as the windows have just gone in and I've set the reveals up with a 15mm angle bead in mind so that they will open without being to close to the finished render
 
i would personally weber rendaid or similar the whole panel beacuse of the old bricks. embedd fibreglass mesh all over and scratch comb. this will give you a sound substrate with the whole panel the same so less risk of different drying rates.
reduces the need for galvinised materials and secure mesh all over
 
i would personally weber rendaid or similar the whole panel beacuse of the old bricks. embedd fibreglass mesh all over and scratch comb. this will give you a sound substrate with the whole panel the same so less risk of different drying rates.
reduces the need for galvinised materials and secure mesh all over
Interesting, what would you finish it with ,a OCR or similar,
 
hi guys, firstly if this is allowed, I'm a heating engineer/gas fitter so happy to try and help with any gas questions
I've just taken the roof off my bungalow and added a second storey, the existing common bricks had 50 years of paint and the new top part of the gables are in lightweight concrete blocks. I have put a Refina scabbler over the painted bricks and raked out the joints however there are still patches of paint ingrained in the brick faces.
My question is , the old skool renderers talk about a scud coat of sand and cement, would you add sbr to this and the subsequent scratch coat and finish?
Just slightly concerned that in years to come a crack may develop where the blocks have been laid on top of bricks on the gables?
Have decided on traditional sand and cement render due to cost and just need it to stay on the wall for 20 years before they put me in a nursing home lol.
Seriously, really appreciate your thoughts on a failsafe spec, thanks in advance.
The light weight blocks ,are the celcon or plasmor , 3 newton or 7 ?
 
Post some pictures up mick ,I'm thinking an SBR splatter coat , maybe half a sheet of EmL over the joint first ,possibly building paper under the EML ,then a 5. / 1 coat of sand and cement ,leave for a week ,keep dampened ,then float with a six and one coat to finish it off
 
i would personally weber rendaid or similar the whole panel beacuse of the old bricks. embedd fibreglass mesh all over and scratch comb. this will give you a sound substrate with the whole panel the same so less risk of different drying rates.
reduces the need for galvinised materials and secure mesh all over
Good option Dan, done that in the past with a soft brick. Keeps it all nice and tied together. Webber is a cracking product. Maybe finish with Webber OCR. Would make a nice top coat and finishes lovely under the float

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Post some pictures up mick ,I'm thinking an SBR splatter coat , maybe half a sheet of EmL over the joint first ,possibly building paper under the EML ,then a 5. / 1 coat of sand and cement ,leave for a week ,keep dampened ,then float with a six and one coat to finish it off
Another good option John, I like 6 to 1 for top coating to. Closed in lovely under the float. I chuck half a shovel if lime in to but that's me

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Morning, hopefully this will help?
Having scabbled all the top layers of paint off, I'm going to rake out all the mortar joints. Am I worrying too much about cracking between the old bricks and the new parts ??

Post some pictures up mick ,I'm thinking an SBR splatter coat , maybe half a sheet of EmL over the joint first ,possibly building paper under the EML ,then a 5. / 1 coat of sand and cement ,leave for a week ,keep dampened ,then float with a six and one coat to finish it off
 
I'm still thinking,scud it with SBr in the mix ,then a scratch coat 5/1 ,top coat 6/1 , the likelihood of cracking at the point is minimal in my opinion
 
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