kirk johnstone

Private Member

this is the way i do it, there are more ways and this is just one of them.
i have not included mix ratios as it is best if you decide for your self Grin (i think most people use a 4-1 or something like that, i prefer something else Grin)

right first things first, it is best to have a good scaffold as you need to get to all of the wall easily (and quite quick if the sun comes out). i prefer not to use a tower if you are doing a full wall and not just a panel or a bay.
next thing is to remove all of the down spouts and waste pipes, some plasterers like to leave the down spouts on if it is a big wall as you can hide a joint behind them but i would recommend that if the wall is to big then just get more men in to do the work.

with all that done you can now bead up, put all the bell-cast beads on and the corner beads (IF YOU ARE GOING TO USE THEM) most plasterers will never use corner beads as they do not offer enough depth for the stones to sit in the sand and cement and this will cause bald spots down the corners, but you can use the plastic external corner beads as they have plenty of room for the stones Wink
now the next stage is the scratch coat, this should be mixed with waterproofer to the maximum amount stated on the tub (trust me if there is only you doing the plastering and throwing the stones this will help allot). when scratch coating try to fill out your bellcast bead so that when you top coat you get an even amount all over the wall and the bellcast is not built out in the top coat, as when you throw the stones this will stop the sagging. also if you are using the plastic beads make sure you only cover the wings of the bead.
let this scratch coat dry out.

now for the top coat, you can go around and cover all the windows if you are not that conferdent at throwing the stones. you should start on the opposite wall to where the sun is shining and try to complete each wall before the sun comes round. soak the wall with a hose pipe first then when you look at the wall you will notice a glisten on the surface from the water, once the glisten has gone you can start to put the top coat on, some plasterers like to use lime in the top coat to give a lighter background to the finished job, when the top coat is on you should rule the wall with the feather edge and fill out all the hollows until the surface is full and flat. once done you should put down sheets at the bottom of the wall to catch all the stones that dont stick, all your stones should be in buckets on the scaffold and the ground where you are working (they should have been washed and dried out in the sun a day before).
now start throwing the stones, you use the flick of the wrist, its all in the flick of you wrist when dashing load the scoop up and then sort of shake it to level the stone of then throw straight at the wall I've seen guys throwing with the scoop at an angle and it looks awful, if you throw them too hard then you will cause the topcoat to move and sag, you only want to throw them so they stick to the wall as you can press them in with a clean float to make sure they stay on. to throw the stones you should use a hurling trowel but i have used my bucket trowel when i have been caught short, i have even seen guys using the tow of there trowel. be sure to throw plenty of stones at the wall (i throw about three trowelfuls at each spot) as bald spots will ruin the job.

now go and pick all of the stones up from the sheets, these should all be washed and dried out fore the next wall.

if there is no other way and you have to put a joint in the wall and there is no down spout, you should try and make it as short as possible like between windows also if you do the joint in a zig zag it will be less noticeable. but i would avoid this at all costs, just get more hands on the job.

oh and i almost forgot if you are not using corner beads then you will need to hold a straight edge to the corner of the wall and hold it so that it comes out just past your topcoat, this way when throwing the stones you wont knock the corner out of shape.

also this might be a good time to mention that there are all different types and grades of stones and also different types of colours for the sand and cement (colours work best with white cement) so dont be afraid to experiment, gold stones took nice on gold/buff coloured cement or black and white on white cement etc etc....

hope this helps

oh and i will say it again, there are lots of ways to pebble dash, this is just the way i do it Wink

Render Systems

Private Member
you never use angle beads on pebbledash... you form hard arriss's... you use a darby or feather edge and dash to these always keeping a wet angle... the only beads you could use is bell beads on the dpc line

kirk johnstone

Private Member
i suppose its all personal taste, but what i like about it is you can get plastic beads in different colours so i like to try and match the background colour of my cement (i normally change the cement colour to a light buff or gold) ;)


New Member
yeh fair enough. There is a block of semi's down the road from my boozer that have cantabury spar and white beads. Not a good look :eek:


The Lake Governor
Pretty shitty guide tbh. I would never use corner beads on dry dash. Looks horrible seeing a bead
Yes mate but you have to be aware that Kirk was/is a complete pillock that came up with some of the worst, most complicated guides imaginable, God only knows why Danny has allowed them to stand.
Ah i see, as a newbie i havent picked much up yet. Just that spunky is a clown but quite funny in some of his posts and d*m**o is the butt of most jokes. I take it kirk johnstone never scratched the 1st coating by the sound of his post!!
Why use a white bead when its a magnolia background? Can kinda see the point if it was white background then the bead wouldnt be so bloody obvious. I personally think it spoils a good finish when you see the bead showing through, looks kinda amatuerish.
Why use a white bead when its a magnolia background? Can kinda see the point if it was white background then the bead wouldnt be so bloody obvious. I personally think it spoils a good finish when you see the bead showing through


Active Member
See your point.

But the client gets what the client wants. And in fairness they do look ok, in relation to white upvc good( doors,windows,soffits,d/pipes etc)
The backgound is banana, with cream reveals, Sunflower stone and ivory sills.


Active Member
Also to note, the beads used are stainless steel with a decorative plastic nosing. Again as per clients spec.
The finish is of a good standard.well done. Everyone has different tastes but i wouldnt reccomend them to anyone. Also dont like the sunflower chip either


Well-Known Member
Its different al give u that but i think it looks canny jasper......:RpS_thumbup:


Active Member
Maybe you just can't bead!?? :razz:

Out of interest, would you still form your angles on EWI??(assuming the absence of all system guarantees)