120mm rockwool repirs

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richardbrown

richardbrown

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Hi Guys,

Just landed a job in Exeter on 5 schools.
Many moons ago they had a Marmorit 120mm rockwool system fitted, the rendering contractor at the time wrongly took the 120mm rockwool to the floor with no tray or cavity, of course over the years the rockwool has been soaking up the water and has blown the sm and conni.

I need to cut around the building to a height of 300mm, fit a tray and use eps and repair....simple enough.

I am looking for ideas on how to cut the insulation neatly, its 120mm with mesh,basecoat and 15mm conni.

Answers on a post card pls

Rich
 
I was thinking chalk line then buy a makita cordless circular saw but what blade and 120mm thickness, can you get a blade that will cut that deep?
 
Get a big grinder or still saw once you have cut you straight line, have a look what they have got in your local hire shop.
 
I may just get some labs up there with sharp stanlys to cut through the mesh neatly then get an old saw in there.......
 
How do you intend to make an invisible repair.Or will you make a feature of the repair but using a stop bead over the joint and installing a decorative low level band.??
 
What if you put a plinth on that's 20mm thicker and shamfer it above the cut line so as to hide it. If the chamfer is in adhesive it would form a waterproof seal then top coat neatly with the masking line 2mm or so higher than the chamfer for another seal.
 
My plan was to replace the insulation, bring the mesh 50mm past the joint and feather in the smpro to say 100mm past the joint. Then 50mm above that so a total height of 550mm set some gaffa tape level around the building and create a plinth using a contrasting colour...

well thats the plan!
 
Rich, you only need to cut through the render make up to a neat line, the rockwool behind will cut easily with a saw, no need to go cutting mechanically through the whole depth.

If the rockwool is degrading, be prepared for a lot of kick back on the blade, as it it will more than likely foul the blade. We did the same a while back, and found it easier to remove by hand.
 
is the damp course level with the ground level ? if not can you just cut it all level with DPC and just render the plinth area ?
 
I am just following instructions mate.

Just had the spec back from Marmorit.... what a ******* joke it'll cost a fortune.

Stainless tray, srband, 120mm plinth board stck with smpro, fixings, smpro base with mesh, sockel dicht, primer, 1.5mm topcoat.

yeah thanks
 
Ricky

Yo want to use a recip saw on a shallow cut, as less fine dust particles from this thn a grinder - (the render may contain silica so the dust is dangerous) cut the final depth of the wool with a hand saw. you will need to grind the finish back also from the remaining surface (from 300 and above) but leaving the base intact for a good mesh lap.

We do remedial quite alot but we charge proper rates for them because the spec is always tip top with lots of prep and the original quick job has been proven to fail so clients tend to listen this time around.
 
richardbrown said:
I am just following instructions mate.

Just had the spec back from Marmorit.... what a ******* joke it'll cost a fortune.

Stainless tray, srband, 120mm plinth board stck with smpro, fixings, smpro base with mesh, sockel dicht, primer, 1.5mm topcoat.

yeah thanks
Click to expand...

have they not specified sockel sm pro for these plinths.
 
And the backs of your legs. Hope it goes good for you maan. Firms like carrilion try you out with smaller jobs Like this first. It could be r brown plc soon
 
theblones said:
And the backs of your legs. Hope it goes good for you maan. Firms like carrilion try you out with smaller jobs Like this first. It could be r brown plc soon
Click to expand...


They are looking to sub hire SME more and more and very small SME's at that. not sure why but there must be some incentive behind the scenes. big article on it last month:RpS_thumbup:
 
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