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ocr isnt fire rated. the protection is in the board.

wouldnt use gypsum cement board and render or masterboard with capped screws. Regs these days would need a fire protection so an a1 fire rated board would be a must

HP14

i dont get why everyone chancing hp12 for ewi..

Krend is not lime based. basecoat is cement, and silicone.... well its aikicone although can breathe It looks like your cottage is solid wall (without cavity) so there wont be a dpc to this day standards. ideally a lime render system should of been used or a breathable lime insulated system

i know a couple if you message me i will pass their details

timber frames on domestic dwellings require a cavity. usual build up. timberframe. 18mm ply/sheathingboard membrane 25mm vertical battens cement render carrierboards thincoat silicone render. if in doubt happy to advise if you message

you should finish DPC height or 150mm from ground. you can put an expansion bead along dpc height to render to ground

there is no silicone on there yet. the silicone is the coloured bucket topcoat. what you see is the cement basecoat which jas come clean off the mesh. This is unusual and i would say mesh dont look like its been bedded on to a basecoat. and instead dry fixed to the wall then basecoat over the...

use it alot. contractors love it for the fire rating. make sure you slurry coat the board before basecoat (wet on wet). gives a better bond

evening fellow pompey chum

its a mystery. fassa is a real slow setter aswell

sprayed on ritmo L. just over 200 on the water. 2 x coats on blockwork 15mm. finished spraying around 1pm. didnt start scratching back and still soft at 10am next day. temp around 5 degrees

weve just been spraying fassa through ritmo l. 2 passes 15mm and still nice and soft at 8am next day think you need to wet your spray up a bit. as 1 stop says usually bit of dry gear.

we use jub winterformula

yep still using silicone. the addatives do work mate

liquid flow screed 50mm is cost effective. express screeds are in your area for that. or if you increase the insulation thickness you can 30mm bagged screed . i recently got a quote for a liquid screed 30m2 1700quid supply fit

nooo they cant take that away from us aswell.lol

like to see them go through doorways, in cupboards and up flights of stairs.

you can go straight over. youl get a bit more time going over silicone but not a great deal as dark colours pick up quick

There are plenty of good lime systems around if that is what you still want to achieve. to name a few. fassa baumit best of lime l*m*-g***n. all compatible with wood fibre boards. your applicator should be experienced in recommending

just look at weather in the morning then decide yay or nay... luckily we have an internal side so can jump in with our internal lads

depends what finish you want to offer. traditional float and sponge. ( i use fassa or best of lime personally.) trowelled finish again best of lime for that. Dan Ejl plastering

i would stay with lime. plenty of systems around. not a fan of dashing though

that is a silicone finish in a bucket form. couldnt tell you what system though

it should be picture frame aroumd board and dabs in middle. 25mm off the wall usually means wall isnt plumb. some of the advantages with the adhesibe you can line the boards in flat. it will be mechanically fixed aswell. if you require any advice send us an email. ejl.plastering@gmail.com...

1 every 1 or 2 m2 i usually spread top line out then next row between so diamond effect

depends on the system.your using. if they spec a primer then yes if not then no. make sure the render is sound though and pin the mesh

beacause i sometimes found it hard to keep.the whole of the stopbead sat against the frame. (sometimes found 1mm gap or so if anything not flat or square). with a bell only the front couple of mm sits on frame and you can twist bead to suit

i use either bell bead against frames or apu beads. ok takes bit more time but such a nicer job. reduces risk of wonky reveals/damage frames etc

What age is your house? is it a solid council house which would be a wimpy style house with pebbledash in the concrete panels. or a.traditional 9inch solid brick. you may be eligable for a grant under eco plus scheme to install external wall insulation

correct meant to have an expansion. but also the renderboard section should be ventilated. i have done what you are doing and rendered the lot under customers orders. but havent heard anything to say any cracking has occured

This is 1.5mm yours as mentions looks very ropey and have applied too thick

you wont have to rip off. just a smoothing layer of basecoat. 1mm is finer but needs a flat surface. please put a picture up though as its unusual for somone to say its a heavy grain unless they sprayed it ?

im assuming the finish was 1.5mm thick. which is standard. you can use a 1mm.but you are going to have to basecoat again

maybe post a picture of the job?

ensure the renderboard is cement based not mgo. our preference is gypsotech renderboard and jub thincoat render every renderer will have their own preference

i havent used vpi. there are so many products and systems out now. you will find only a few "systems" will have bba certs. not alot of.product alone will have them. they will have the european tag which cant remember what.

best lime product ive used is best of lime warmcote them.limecoat top or 2 coats adcote. fassa range lime.ki710 and s605 top

renderers are like mechanics. certian mechanics will only work on certian makes. same with renderers. if you get a fail with a product people tend to jump ship. if seen fails on a number of systems. some install error, some design fault and others bad luck (weather elements etc). systems...

just gunna be a case of scrape and patch mate

doesnt look like theres any primer on the 1st pic

put some weep holes in for drainage

ive met him he runs paint and airless acadamy. so his selling point is slate the plaster and use airless and sand under a halogen

go to.your local stockist and take a look at samples

they flock to wet silicone for some reason

never had a problem before. or know of one. as mentioned did you leave it to cure. is the air dry and temp above 5 degrees when you topped and for some time after? what have you been rendering?

i would use best of lime. prebagged warmcote

airvents below dpc are for airflow under the floor. not the cavity mate. you can put an xps board and render below dpc pal. and extend the vents