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Bang a nail in or normally the lighter grey the stronger the block.

Porch is being built next week so I am gonna tell them it has to be done in 7N or I won't mono it. Let someone else struggle. Thanks for all your advice, top stuff.

Sound Thankyou, if I decide to use mesh round some port hole openings or even on future work do I just bed it into my first coat?

Thankyou rendit I will advise, it's only a porch so don't think expansion will be an issue.

Yeah I would always treat the suction on these blocks but was not sure what the crack was with mono on them. I know what you have suggested is the best way. can mono still crack through the plastic mesh? And do I just bed the mesh into the first coat or do I need a separate product to bed it in...

Hi, I am looking for some advice based on experience regarding a suitable substrate for mono pral M, I am sure in the coarse they said that light weight blocks (aerated) were suitable but didn't know if anyone had had bad experiences with applying mono to these or cracking afterwards?

Great tip I'm on it.

I went and did a 43m2 ceiling the other week, had to be done on a sat and the guy said have a look while you are there because there is loads more to do so if you are free over the next few weeks maybe do a few days. I did the ceiling in 2 hits and by the time I'd scrimmed and set my water up...

i have seen a lot of this recently and on the other hand I have seen some right rough painting. All probably for the same reason, the price! Do you do much contract work in Northampton? If so who for?

Sorry mate only just caught this, that is site work and I really make a point of arks and skirts being removed etc. providing they are being replaced obviously. Done a lot of school work recently and they always seem to leave staples everywhere, white boards up and even there work is on the wall.

Also the blades bigger on these sort off saws

If its just for metsec I use my Mikita drop saw, think they are called metal cut off saw and they don't do mitres and have the fibre blades. IMO these are best for this sort of work as they are heavy duty and the evo stuff will just need re calibrating after cutting runs of metsec. Mine cost me...

If I replied to his add it would only be to tell him to get his driving the price down bull **** out of my area. If the bloke I subbed to in Northampton new this he would be slashing my prices pronto. He already pays monthly so he'd probably go to quarterly or something just as fecking ridiculous.

i will start charging 7 then and tell them you said so

Do you know who they are working for at 1.70 in Northampton jeanclaudgyproc? I do quite a bit in that area and didn't think the prices had got that bad here. You got me worried.

I'm the same mate I always try and knock something small and nasty off with every set so at the end of the job you don't have a nothing set on a little room or bits.

Always thought I was getting a good deal with that! Do you do site reskims and if so what you charging?

Do you not think £4 m2 on reskims is a good or perhaps the going rate?

No you don't have to but you still know its 10 m2 to bag roughly so you know what the meterage is that way or you could just think I will do x amount of bags a day and I want x amount a day. Or you could just walk into a room and go 1 set 2 set and tick the walls off and price it that way. For...

I do reskims at £3 a m2 and £1 a m2 for Pva or bond it and dubbing out of blown plaster etc is £1 m2 all labour only. To be honest the skim and Pva prices work well separate coz people like to know what they are paying if any board work crops up. The dubbing out price rarely pays but it means...

My opinion is that it doesn't look uniform enough for it to be a proper plasters job ( trowel seems to have goneinevery direction poss) but I have to agree with others you can snag it till you get a oat of paint on it especially if you are not in the trade. This may be a pain in the arris if you...

finally a sound bit of advice, another good plasterers tip is if the walls are only 8ft sometimes high heels can be used instead of a hop up. We use these on a lot of reskims.

No it won't and scrim before you Pva. If the paint has a sheen to it you may want to use a different bonding agent like blue grit or bond it but there are plenty of threads on that. Pva will be fine for when you have to reskim it tho:RpS_wink:

Always work the same way when skimming so for you it should be right to left, so start where you left off and remember to wet the edge of the existing plaster work and walls before you start spreading, especially if you leave it for a while.

Yeah once the plaster has set and all you need to do is give it a hard/dry trowel then just pull the scrim and watch you nice clean line appear then scrape any excess to the right of the scrim(assuming you lay it on left to right) Try to remember that the more you play with the plaster the...

Fair play to you. Tbh I didn't smash four bags straight on I did try and time it but I guess the combination of trying something new and not being made of what ever they used make spreads out of just made me feel like I was chasing my work and although I do like to graft I don't like to chase...

Basically you need to get quicker but you know this! Try just getting your first coat on as quick as you can and try not to worry about it being neat after all it is called roughing on, then clean your trowel and flatten.the best way to 1st coat is to adopt a system and stick to it and don't...

could normally do those metres depending on job obv, was just wanting to try a rolling set and curious to see how many other spreads do rolling gauges. Good job I read this after doing the ceiling or I would have probably just gone for it trying not to be a pussy, oh wait i did try and gave...

I'd like a go at something like that just so I know I could do it if you know what I mean? I still haven't measured what I done today but I know I used 6 and a bit bags and there was to beads to fill so I guess it was pushing 70m which depending on the job I can normally do but doing those first...

I'm a pussy,turned up started it mixing one bag more or less at a time and after 4 buckets thought **** this and split it. Chalk/plasterboard marks on the wall where I stopped and started was a great help to as at one point I couldn't remember what the **** I was doing. my conclusion is that...

Cut it tight do all taping and sanding then caulk in the edges, simples.

Is that a serious ****that I won't have any blood left in my arms or a you could do it but why on Friday **** that?

Thanks, sound advice. I did do a search but didn't see that one, I have understood the system for a while and have always wanted to try it but just not sure about being on me Todd. The bit about only mixing a small amount up at a time is quite clever and does make it seem like it would be more...

Sorry don't know the measure as i got areas to skim all over the job and this is the only one ready for 2mo, took some water and kit up at end of today and had a quick look and at a rough guess I'd say about 70m2 but is hard to say as its a very odd shape and seems big coz it is quite long. Do...

We get £6.50m2, £3.50 for N/W and £1m2 for dubbing out which we know is a good price but its all in schools and gets painted in eggshell so it has to be spot on. Working with two guys from Nottingham recently and they said that £5.50 was there rate and the same if not less further north...

Got a ceiling to do 2mo and I'm on my own, it's quite long and got lots of funny shapes coming off it and although I could split it easily enough as there are lots of narrowish parts I was wondering about trying a rolling gauge! Never done one but I'm not afraid of the graft! Just didn't know...

Leaving site at 3 coz its too late to put a set on! And when questioned tell them I can put a set on but I won't be done till 6! Totally calling there bluff, the agent will practically usher you off site just in the fear that if they don't they will be staying late.

Gomollie you are too expensive IMO. Hope that helps.

Shouldn't have tried to work it out and help him realise he is over charging and raping people who actually need to make a living out of it. My apologies, go

We are talking 2 by 2.5 then which is means I over measure that room by about 2 and a half m2 which for dot and dab and skim works out at less than a fiver, basically I was being generous to start with we all know that based rooms with that area 160 would cover the dab and skim plus some MR. I...

If the area of a room is 5m2 then you could say that its 2.5 by 2.5 and at an ever age height of 2.4m admittedly some of it is guess work and I would never measure a job that way but its enough thoroughly gauge mats and realise he asking for a top wage on domestic. IMO.

My bad, read it as 150 a day for 3 days. So 293 a day it is then, not a bad wage just before Xmas!

I'm guessing you mean that's the area of the room so providing they are pretty square and not loads and loads of alcoves I make it about 80m2 of walls and about 90m2 of skimming so materials should be about £120 including a bit of wastage and beads etc and let's say the middle room is moisture...

I don't like racking up more than 30 miles each way but will do as long as the job is not massive(mainly for cost) and I don't like being more than 40mins away door to door.

Don't remember to much of what we did but it was just a zap and it then test the battery if it doesn't work re zap and a test again, pretty simple really but you do have to take the battery case off, we followed a YouTube video for it and I remember the guy saying it only works on ni cad and...

Done that car battery trick on my 12 and 14 v dewalt batteries and it worked, put them back to near new for about the 6 months solid that they were used for afterwards. It was a very old combi drill and drywall gun but if you don't use them for a bit (weeks) they go back to how they are. Not bad...

Don't make sense in a house, you lose 92mm just on board, top hat, and primary channel and that's with not tolerance for levelling which you would need to do unless you just tacked the top hat to the joists but then why wouldnt you overtack with just board if you weren't gonna level it. Plus it...

I have had this happen mate and I might be barking up the wrong tree but did your sand seem dead as in has it been exposed to elements as we had a job once where we used plastering sand provided by the builder and after a nightmare morning we'd realised it had obviously had some of the goodness...

Also forgot to mention I just came back from there and the room looks pretty tight, nice even egg shell look and the angle all look good just a bit baggy on one bead and the odd tear which I can aims out, still was the day from hell but a least I learnt a little and my work is ok.

Lesson learnt, no more quick sets on non porous backgrounds, I hate silk paint even more now. Intact I think I'm gonna knock the quick sets on the head totally