I just realised you had pictures on this post.....lol
I cant be doing with clout nails. Gripfill for me. Although I see you use turbo outside. Interesting.
Outside I use external tile adhesive. Found that to be brilliant and cheap. I might give your turbo a go next time I'm outside...
I've tried both and can categorically state that pink grip it not much use as it skins too quick and make a mess, is a nightmare to smooth off.
Yellow gripfill is not like using chaulk that's been day on a radiator. Me sniffs a bias opinion...lol
My current trowel is an unknown that was left on a job. Customer said you can have it. Handle has shrunk from the end leaving a gap that my skin goes in and hurts. Trowel before that was 13" stainless permashape but ended up to curved after about 9 years of use. Think I'll go for the gold, see...
At 6 quid as tube it works out more expensive.
Gripfill is cheaper. If you like it you can buy it but the case cheaper, that's what I do. Howdens do it on offer sometimes
I prefer solvent free gripfill. It's in the yellow tube. Screwfix do an alternative called no nonsense solvent free adhesive. I use my finger to smooth it off and then wipe it off on the side of a multi bag that I use for waste. You won't go back
I don't use any mechanical fixings for beads any more.
Not used the turbo stuff but it sounds more expensive. I use Yellow gripfill for every Single bead I fit. The bead stays adjustable for a minute or two as well which is a complete bonus.
It's little things like when the wall is out. It touches at the bottom and top but not at the middle. With gripfill I put one bead down each side. Stick the bead on and it's done once smoothed off. Now with tape I'm guessing the middle won't be stuck to the wall and will spring in and out as the...
If carbon trowel is kept clean it will perform just as good. You still get tiger Stripes if you let fat build up on the edges, just clean of with a brush. Likewise on stainless you get that crusty buildup. That lets the way fat cling to our which in turn will make Stripes.
It's basically the...
How does the tape fair when you have a window, you put your top bead on, great so far, then one of the side reveals needs to be 7mm away from the wall to line up with the top bead because the plaster board is out of the spread years ago couldn't line them up. It's like hook on beads. Fantastic...
Trouble with Caulk is it don't dry quick enough. It may be cheaper but hey. I've been using the yellow tube for over a decade. It's so easy to use. Beats reloading a staple gun and carrying the stairs. Silicone gun and gripfill or one of the cheaper alternatives.
I won't use anything else.
Oh...
From the Queen, predictive text me thinks..lol
Thanks for everyone's input. I quite like the handle on the refina. It's very comfy. I used it for last trowel today just because. Does anyone know the thickness on the Marshall town permashape?
If the finatex 1 is as flat as the s*p*r*lex then it...
The acronym MO is short for modus operandi, an expression directly from Latin meaning “way of operating.” Modus operandi was first recorded in English by the 1650s.
I copy and pasted that bit. It used to be simple. One trowel for the whole lot......
What's the finatex trowel for?
I don't see the point, I've always used solvent free gripfill. Cheap as chips. Dry enough to plaster in a matter of minutes and the biggest plus for me is there is adjustment for when the last spread could line his beads up. Try it, works a treat. :-)
I've been plastering for over twenty five years and probably kept myself to myself and don't look at new ways, so it was a surprise to me to decide to buy a new trowel. Having always used Marsheltown I decided to go for a s*p*r*lex from Regina. It said suitable for multi and board finish...
No amount of hacking off and re plastering is going to fix that. It's Victorian which means it should be dry as they knew what they were doing when building.
Wooden floors should be ventilated by air bricks or metal grills. Usually front and back of property but not always. Check these haven't...
New builds, a few days. A few weeks then to do it properly.... Lol
I just don't want the wall settling and causing the render to crack.
The time to wait then makes me decide if it does need to wait till April... Lol
It's going to be a sand and cement render by the way
Hi everyone.
Got a garden wall to render but the brick layer has had to do some extensive work to repair after removing old render.
Just wondered how long new brick walls should be left to dry before rendering?
I should know this but in twenty years I've never had to render over a new...
Thanks guys. The reason I ask about the Waterproofer is I noticed cement one do a integral Waterproofer and freeflo.
The integral Waterproofer days is suitable for rendering. Just wondered what the difference was. One more Waterproof than the other?
And yes - I like freeflo. I use it all the...
Done a rendering job of an external garage. Freeflo was not in stock so used sika rendermix.
Well impressed with the mix. A dream to spread but rubbing up was difficult. To sticky in my opinion. What do you guys think?
Also, is integral Waterproofer an option for rendering verses Freeflo...
I keep hearing about this speedskim thing on a pole. last time I saw it used it was crap. A supposed flat ceiling ended up with a slight roll around the edge. I'm guessing it was operator error???
I've always just used my trusty 13" marshletown for all ceiling rolls - never had any problems...
The house was built with patio door but it's been replaced. It looks like it has been fitted too far in the reveal and the cavity covered with a 3" wide plastic trim.
It seems to let in water. That's one of my jobs to remove and re-fit the patio door.
The top of the door does not have a drip...
Quite true - they are all painted (Ballymory springs to mind!!)
Lots of horizontal cracks either side of patio door
one big vertical crack from top of patio door up to window!!
Sounds like not a bad idea but never used that stuff before. Touched on hydrated stuff with not much luck. Also, it's a terrace so I've got to angle grind two straight lines down each a joining property. Would lime render inbetween two S & C work?
May finally have a job but the weather is being a bitch!!!
Anyway this house is south facing right on the beach with a road in between. High tide means the sea is the road width away.
Not done one this close to the salty sea before.
Any special mix I should consider - (Trad S & C)
I know some...
No mate it don't. Once you've got your nvq level 2 you then need to apply for the cscs card and do a health and safety test. That bit aint a lot of money though.
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