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Ah.. that’ll be 8 Guinness in taking the edge off mate

Haven’t ever used anything thicker than 3mm, prefer 1.5mm myself. Not familiar with every company that does it so it might be out there fella.

You sound like you’re half way there but you can never beat experience. If you do it yourself then accept it will not be perfect. Like I said though 1.5mm and over can hide a multitude of sins. 1.0mm and below everything has to be spot on.

I would normally be in the same camp as everyone else on this, definitely not something for a novice to crack on with. First mistake is not applying a primer to the masonry, with a few different backgrounds this wanted doing. I can understand you wanting to get the base coat spot bollock, this...

If that was a recommendation then it must of been from a mate or family member their end, shocking work.

If it’s no to lime plastering inside and out if rendered, build a stud wall away 50mm from the external then board and skim. Can insulate at the same time. As has been said before, gypsum doesn’t do to well with damp issues.

Done it arse about face. Best bet is to put lining paper back up.

If it has woodchip on it then you can’t say the walls will be in good nick.

Number of reasons it could of cracked like it has been said. Lighting the fire wouldn’t of helped, can dry it out fast and shrink at the joints. Always better to over board and have the plasterboard cover the original cracks.

Unless you’re trying to achieve a shadow gap it sounds like you haven’t got a clue. Employ someone with the knowledge, save yourself a headache.

All depends on the man holding the trowel, everyone has their own set up. As I get longer in the tooth I’m looking to try and take some of the hard labour out of the process. They are good for the final trowel, never try to pull the corners in with them. If it works for you then happy days.

Unless it’s someone who knows what they’re doing then of course it’s gonna need a spread. Tile over the f**k*r to get over it could be another option. You would be mistaken to think some easi-fill alone will sort that out, moisture in the room will have that over time, will open back up for sure.

That will crack 100% Should of been plastered before It was tiled

If you use expanding foam just make sure you don’t go mad with it or you’ll end up popping the tiles. Like Windy said it should of been sorted before it was tiled. Get the paper off and get the whole wall skimmed, use a thin-coat stop bead just before the tile bead. Will look better if you keep...

Must be a wind up, user name rough! Think someone is fishing, at least I bloody hope so.

You honestly think the wall paper paste will mean you don’t have to pva? I strongly suggest you get someone in who knows their job.

Increase the price of finish and you’ll stop a chancer like this.

Unless you combine the external work with doing the internal then you’ll never fix the damp problem. It might be inconvenient for the tenant to move out but if you want it done properly then that’s what needs to happen.

Yeah sure, stick them on credit and go around with a hammer if they don’t pay. Must think we’re a f**k**g bank.

Water will find it’s way in if it can. Anything below ground level you want to have a proper damp proof system in place. Injecting into the damp course will only prevent rising damp. Your basement below will still have penetrating. Tenant needs to move out and put a sump in the floor, no solid...

Anyone near Aylesbury, Wickes have had a fresh batch delivered today. Can only take five but at least it stops the pond scum loading up and sticking it on eBay.

Now that the pipes are there I would pva the brick and plaster, when that is going off cut some fibre mesh to go over the chase. Use some bonding to fill in the chase then bury the mesh in the backing coat. Once that has set I would easi-fill over if you don’t want to skim the whole wall, even...

I love an open flame. When I plaster something I am always thinking ahead, life span, I want want it to last. If the surround is brick then it’s less messing about in my book.

Just the nature of a log burner/open fire. The most flexible render I know of is silicone, wouldn’t look right around a fireplace imo. End of the day the heat will f**k up solid plaster.

My advice around an open fire or log burner would be to reinstate and point the brick work or tile. The heat over time will eventually get at the plaster. Never dot & dab around a fire place, against fire regulations.

Hello. Yes absorption/suction rates are important. Quite a bit to cover in answering your questions. Every wall will be different and Shall need to be prepared accordingly, preparation is key. Most products you use will instruct you on how to apply them. For most renders I always prime the walls...

I would recommend using EWI pro over K-rend for this, their mosaic render might be the one. That with the weep holes, membrane behind and gravel should see you through. Would try to install a chemical damp course and separate above and below with a bead. Does my nut in when they’re built without...

In wickes today and not a smidge of plaster in there, no idea when the next load is coming either. I’m very lucky how my work has fallen, between render, lime and pink I’ve kept busy mostly. Self employed have been left to fend for themselves though, with some help only just coming through...

My Mrs has stocked up on every flour you can think about! Does help that we live next door to a flour mill. Bit of a sod getting hold of yeast though.

Cheers fella

Better the devil you know for me. Will just have to go to British gypsum with my begging bowl.

Always best to stud & tack. If you have to dot & dab then once it has set I would fix it with some screws.

Evening spreads. Clicked on this site over the years, thought a lock down would be a good time to say hello! British gypsum are wa**ers. Not a fan of that make good stuff either.

Easiest way is to get a closing bead around the window, whoever fitted them can do this. Otherwise bead up again and easi-fill around the the angle bead to save you skimming the whole wall.