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To stop sagging apply it at half the thickness you need and let it pull in then scratch it , then put the rest on. To stop tearing a little splash of water should sort that.

Probably worth getting out of plastering or do domestics, at 54 doctor said to me I had wear and tear/ arthritis in my hip and if I carried on plastering full time it would get worse. Now I do domestics and take a mate to do the labouring so it's easier on my body. At 55 you've probably been...

Yes

Pva the wall and leave it overnight, next day Pva again and then plaster it

Best not plasterboard it as the screws will disturb the asbestos, and you will also lose part of the coving

Its needs an apostrophe, it should be it's.

I just clean the sides of the bucket with a bucket trowel then brush with plenty of water, when the plaster in the bottom has set I turn the bucket upside down and knock it out with my boot

You've found out that you can make the plaster stick to paint but you can't guarantee that the paint will stay on the wall , for the simple reason that the plaster is thicker and heavier than the paint. Also in your case the water in the pva and plaster has turned the paint into mush.

What really bothers me is that St George isn't English,

I test it by rubbing it between my hands, if it feels sharp and my hands stay clean I think its ok

It's been years since I done any rendering and didn't think about trying ocr but will next time. Looked at the plastering sand in jewsons and that looks like building sand too, just seems like plastering sand isn't any good

Same here it looks red and fine but not sharp, got it from b&q, it's good to use but I'm not convinced it's good for long term strength, I wouldn't use it again instead I'd look for good quality sharp sand, cheers

Started a small rendering job today using plastering sand, but the sand looks more like building sand rather than a clean sharp sand. Has anyone used it and thinks it's any good

It would be if I used a straight edge, but not everything needs to be level, in an older house the walls and ceilings may not be flat and even, so I would do the ceiling to match the existing plasterwork

That would vary it depends on the ceiling

I would just fill in any low spots and then skim, your method sounds harder and more time consuming, dipshit

No because you can plaster it flat

I mean that the 12.5 boards are less flexible than the 9.5, so if the existing ceiling is very uneven I need to put more screws in to keep the board tight to it.

Yes always they're ideal because they will follow the shape of an uneven ceiling without putting too much pressure on the screws, bit lighter too

Are you someone who sells sbr

Cheers Aidan good luck

Understood mate, I just associate pva with plaster and sbr with cement, I don't understand why people recommend both. I would pva and leave to dry overnight, then pva again and skim while tacky as the plaster will stick better. Hope job turns out well.

No, but that's the last time I offer straightforward advice. You seem angry and upset, is there anything you'd like to share with the group

Just pva the f**k**g thing

Terrible plastering you shouldn't have to sand his work, 2 of those pictures look like the surface of the moon

I binned my internal corner trowel and started using my index finger instead

I was there 20 years ago we used gold band or red band one coat plasters. Great stuff to use.

Fair enough but at least we can afford overpaid prima donnas

W Why are you jocks so obsessed with England, is it because you're from a smaller, less successful and less significant country?

They aren't proper surveys it's just an advert for Selco, papers often do this as a way to get people to read an advertisement

Hilarious

I like marshalltown carbon steel 13 or 14 inch they get sharper than stainless steel, use it start to finish before getting a flexi.

I'd like to see a finish plaster that can be applied in one coat, that would be a big improvement

I just use it for the last 2 trowels so I can apply less pressure, I find if I use a carbon steel trowel for the first trowel I get tiger stripes but if I use a stainless steel trowel for the first one then I don't, just wandering if anyone else found this

Use a joint rule for the corners

You could also just board over it using 9mm boards fixed with 60mm screws, nice and easy

I had same problem with evostick and diall pva... Everbuild is good.

Now there's no need to get upset all I did was give 2 reasons why I wouldn't use it. The best place you could launch your gimmick is into a skip. Now apologise for speaking to me like that or I will do all I can to damage your sales. Apologise then shut the f**k up.

I seem to have hit a nerve, you've criticised me because you couldn't defend your product. Also as there is no plaster behind the bead to hold it securely to the wall then it can easily be knocked off even after plastering. Your product is a gimmick and you are a chancer.

I take back what I said about the flexi trowel, today kept it flat and only used it for 2nd and 3rd trowel, fantastic. I still think the finish needs bulking up so it can be applied in one pass, I'm obsessed by this and always will be .

Thanks for your reply, using one coat for skimming seems expensive. But my main point is that finish is a poor material. Proven by the fact that it needs applying in 2 coats and needs a lot of pressure in the final stages. Using flexi trowels to alleviate that pressure doesn't work as they...

So how would it work on an uneven wall where the beads need adjusting to align with window frames? Seems to me it can only work in ideal conditions so therefore has limited use.

We used to finish with the gold and red using sponge and spatula, never seen the sigma stuff

No I'm from Liverpool

Thank you for your well thought out, mature and considered opinion

Just had to get that off my chest..... Don't know how much they are I was there 20 years ago and the firm bought the materials... but it was great to use

Dear BG As a plasterer of 30 years it still annoys me that when skimming I need to apply the finish in two coats. To make a good job the first coat needs to be flattened then a fresh mix applied. This is clearly because finish plaster is a poor material. It is also labour intensive...

On a high suction background allow the pva 24 hours to dry then pva again before skimming while it's tacky.

Turmeric is good for inflammation people seem to recommend a teaspoon a day.