and I agree with you in-situ is looking the right option, but on the bench is a mess that's easy to clean and not splattered everywhere. Perhaps I'm better paying for it but getting the lad, right lads around here is not easy.. i'll bollock on … plus i'm a tight t**t as well
two successful quarters, apart from a repairable chip from my saw! one run cut in half, doing so appears to stopped the expansion both halves are perfect no lift, funny thin is I even tried a shorter length before that lifted .. finding the right process is the key, method etc .. baffled at the...
it is! hence why I came on here! no warping as such the inner edge the lowest part of the profile lifting. I changed from fine casting plus to keramicast it still did the same as in "lifting the inner edge" I have two "quarters" now so happy but once I moved them and cleaned up one as decided to...
and laths! but have thought it might be the lath drying that lifted it so done a few with laths and hessian as can't be arsed to put it in only to see it warp then make it bin fodder. But.... I think I have sussed the technique... but still weigh the inner edge down … fan on de humidifier on...
my thoughts never lead me to join those specific two items , large stainless steel syringe and Arse! lucky for me the thought of it ever going near my arse is like hearing now "the cheque is in the post"
I bought all my covings thought far too much to make for 7 rooms all different , then made me a cracking cutting bench, sadly the bought covings were problematic wavy , different end s that were a bugger to match up but ok overall. glue and screwed
that's a plaster off plaster mould with shellac I assume I tried a sample on the brown section in the pics above thinking to try plaster before silicone ..barsteward stuck in places but was my very first try I think I needed to myths the shellac down a bit it seemed very soft on the surface...
that's what my target is Hobo, but the matter of making a perfect master arch is eluding me, but practice makes perfect, my dustbin men are not happy with my deposits though!!!
Must say keep pondering it but gravity is a bitch! done straight repair in-situ on some renovations I did years on a period house, but a rail across the spring point and apply material .. never done a arch in situ b4 maybe now's the time.. and stop farting about eh???
I have 24 arches to make, insitu makes for a much messier job, i'm capable but thought because 12 are the same size, run the straights on the table easy enough for all sizes, then cast the arches in 2 halves from a master for repetitive ones and then the one offs run on the table and repeat...
Hi all can anyone put me onto a silicone casting materials supplier that does not cost the earth? :), bought some off the web but can't believe its that expensive !!! anyone know somewhere in the UK that I could use either collect directly or delivered. cheers all TIA
Like I stated earlier I decided to run a base profile and leave it to dry with minimal movement and weighed down, then after a few days changed my profile plate to finish and it did work . where it lifted it was compensated for the difference in my profile plates so some plaster made its way...
Hi Hobo I thought that too in the beginning so I only used one at the direction end I was running to so it had something to push on and stop slipping so it could expand backwards but still did it rise in the middle the highest was near 1/2 an inch!!! that's a lot.. typical movement is about 1/4...
and in the full length one half done yesterday I have cut in a saw cut and within seconds it closed and re cut it weighed it down best I can let it set better and dry better and pva it then top coat it in one go with finish profile then silicon it for casting its one half of a 68 inch arch moulding
I thought that also , my brain was hurting as to think through reasons but to be fair its glass it should act as a eat sink and dissipate heat created but after all my thoughts expansion was on my hit list, but trying karamicast after advice thought it might cure it, it hasn't so its a...
I used lathes I thought it might be the difference in the wood effecting drying and expansion , then I did a few runs with no hessian or laths still the b*****d moved! I see until they are fully dried/ white they have stopped moving the time factor is a pain .. I also did a rough profile some...
I thought that glass would be better to use, slide on etc and keep clean, the straight bits are a doddle to be honest and pop off a treat. It was trial and error at first I use hot glue gun to stick down "stops" but the water/moisture got under and they slipped then used silicon and not looked...
I like to clean up Hobo! is that so bad? Owls thank you, So I guess if timber is used the plaster dries differently on glass? but if its shellacked its still not as absorbent but can see it being better at moisture control over glass but I thought its more of the fact its expansion on the outer...
I use some plastic spacers sat on silicon thing stays put, its on about 2 inch at each end enough to run against then just cut off the ends same applies to straight runs and the curved ones
Hi , I am running some window mouldings on a glass bench approx. 4 inch wide using Fine casting plus , the straight runs are only 1.5m long and are spot on but the radius are warping from the inner upwards on a radius of 2feet/ dia 4 feet tried making them in half but still they curl up from...
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