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So this this is really frustrating and I never had problems with the 110mm ones, but since I switched to 8 x 140s they're often jamming and bending when an inch or so is left to drive (happened with 4 so far) Problem isn't caused by the obvious things. I'm using an 8mm bit that isn't worn...

I used 8 x 110 mm for the kitchen, but the render and plaster was fairly shallow. On the old part of the house, the render is quite thick, 1/2 inch in places and crumbly. So after the fixing goes through the sheet and render, there's about 35 mm in "solid concrete", but the end of the fixing...

The last time I insulated around the reveals of a window, I aligned the square edges of the sheets so they butted up against the reveal inserts. Then I plastered so there was a gradient all the way to the window frame. Should I be using the tapered edges instead? Or would that result in the...

I've used a 6" knife for the first coat on tapered joints. I saw someone using a float on YouTube for doing subsequent coats. I used a float for plastering the cement render on the outside of my workshop and it turned out fine, but what if any are the disadvantages of using it for joints on...

I'm not skimming the plasterboard, so what's the best way of covering the corner edge of the beading? Also should I use PVC or metal beading? Alternatively I might use 1/2 inch timber for the reveal and caulk the hairline gap where the plasterboard butts up to it. This is what I'm doing for a...

So I'm insulating the kitchen with 63mm overall, insulated plasterboard. Kingspan recommended using 18 fixings per board and this is how many I used for attaching the first board. However it seems OTT. Looking at what other people suggest online, I've seen anything ranging from 6 per board to...

Hi, I'm Eugene. Plastering is one of my least developed DIY skills, but I did manage to render the outside of my workshop 10 years ago and it hasn't fallen off (yet!).