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Sorted the problem anyway. Fixings are pretty crappy compared to the previous ones I used. Tips aren't tapered all the way around, just one side so I reckon they're snagging on the hole walls. Blowing dust out with a piece of air line helped also.

Ok, well if you aren't capable of helping, I'll just ask the manufacturer's for ideas.

So this this is really frustrating and I never had problems with the 110mm ones, but since I switched to 8 x 140s they're often jamming and bending when an inch or so is left to drive (happened with 4 so far) Problem isn't caused by the obvious things. I'm using an 8mm bit that isn't worn...

Ok, so it's the 8 x 140s then.

Yes, insulation backed plasterboard panels. I'm fixing them to shuttered concrete walls with metal mushrooms. (sorry I'm calling the cement skim under the plaster "render", probably not the right term. Why would they cement over shuttered concrete? The concrete should be relatively smooth since...

I used 8 x 110 mm for the kitchen, but the render and plaster was fairly shallow. On the old part of the house, the render is quite thick, 1/2 inch in places and crumbly. So after the fixing goes through the sheet and render, there's about 35 mm in "solid concrete", but the end of the fixing...

The corner of the bead that is. Maybe just don't push it too tight to the board (probably overthinking this).

I meant at the point where the angle bead goes though? If the bead is tight to the corner, will it get covered? I have to cut sheets into 8 x 2s to get them upstairs, so they'll only have one tapered edge and I'd prefer to keep that edge on the other side so that it buts against another tapered...

The last time I insulated around the reveals of a window, I aligned the square edges of the sheets so they butted up against the reveal inserts. Then I plastered so there was a gradient all the way to the window frame. Should I be using the tapered edges instead? Or would that result in the...

Thanks Danny, When I bed the bead and coat over it, how do I cover the metal corner of the bead where the two sides of the mesh meet? Or does it barely project through the plaster and just get painted? I'm not skimming the boards.

I've used a 6" knife for the first coat on tapered joints. I saw someone using a float on YouTube for doing subsequent coats. I used a float for plastering the cement render on the outside of my workshop and it turned out fine, but what if any are the disadvantages of using it for joints on...

I'm not skimming the plasterboard, so what's the best way of covering the corner edge of the beading? Also should I use PVC or metal beading? Alternatively I might use 1/2 inch timber for the reveal and caulk the hairline gap where the plasterboard butts up to it. This is what I'm doing for a...

I'm in the process of stripping the vinyl. Got the plastic layer off but will have to steam or wet the paper to scrape it off. I wonder is there any point considering the slabs themselves have paper at the back on the cold side of the vapour barrier? (Sorry, over analysing again!!!)

It has my head done in so might just do that!

Do I need to remove vinyl wall paper before slabbing? Kingspan say at least score the paper if dabbing or try and get top layer off, but I wonder should I try to strip it back to the paint underneath or even sand back to the original skim?

Any particular primer? Maybe red oxide metal primer? I've seen it mentioned elsewhere that black patches could be caused by emulsion paint soaking through skim and reacting with the metal heads producing a black oxide.

I'm fixing direct to the wall. Plasterer said 12, Kingspan recommended 18.

I was speaking to a plasterer today and also Kingspan. Plasterer recommended sealing central core of steel mushrooms with expanding foam to stop any moist air from inside cavities hitting the back of the filler covering the mushroom heads and causing damp spots. He said he's seen this happening...

Is there such a think as a filler gun that filler can be put into (like a cake icing set)?

That's why I'm trying to get the edges of the mushroom heads even a mm below the surface. It's easy to get the central area well below. With a little care and practice and using that piece of brush handle, I think I'll be able to go around the perimeter of the head and recess it slightly. Two...

Thanks Raggles! Kingspan recommended 18 fixings and then I asked them would 15 be okay and they sort of hmmed and hawed but said it would probably be ok. So I wonder could I push it down to 12? I read on another forum that someone had problems fixing to 9 inch cavities, but maybe they were...

Yes I'm fixing directly to the wall without bonding adhesive. I used plasterboard for an attic room years ago and painted without skimming and it turned out fine. I read that it's recommended, if the boards aren't skimmed, to use a base coat of 10% emulsion (90% water) before painting to seal...

I could do but too much dabbing and spreading and mess.

Yes it does sound kinky, doesn't it!?

That would be useful. Then I could spin the sheets upside down if I get bored.

Thanks John!

Thanks!

Kildare.

Just discovered a short piece of brush handle makes an ideal punch for driving heads below surface. The right diameter too and less likely to tear paper.

So I'm insulating the kitchen with 63mm overall, insulated plasterboard. Kingspan recommended using 18 fixings per board and this is how many I used for attaching the first board. However it seems OTT. Looking at what other people suggest online, I've seen anything ranging from 6 per board to...

Hi, I'm Eugene. Plastering is one of my least developed DIY skills, but I did manage to render the outside of my workshop 10 years ago and it hasn't fallen off (yet!).