Okay but can you paint the side of a board edge bead?
I'm not sure if I understand how they work. They're 3 sided, one side sits behind the board (in-between the wall and board), one side sits on front of the board and gets skimmed over, leaving one side on the edge of the board exposed, is...
Sorry if I'm being dim, but once its all fitted and skimmed it will look like the below image?
The grey strip being the side of the edge bead, which can be painted?
Inside wall is fireboard, I'm going to re-board (dot and dab) and skim the facing wall, but not skim the fireboard. But If I make it flush there will be an exposed plasterboard edge.
Should I just suck it up and skim the fireboard or is there an edging bead that will cover the edge of plasterboard?
Does anyone know the best way to stick a window board to that stone lintel?
I thought about plasterboard adhesive and have tried no more nails but it just came straight off. I'd rather not screw as I'm worried about the stone cracking
Just thought I'd add to the discussion, I spoke to British Gypsum and they advised NOT to use hardwall as they said it would react with the existing lime plaster. They recommended I use lime.
I understand it's my choice, I'm just asking if in your opinion there is any benefit to using lime on a cavity construction, with the exterior being Accrington (which I think is classed as engineered) and the interior being a stock brick as you said?
It's Accrington which is engineered right?
I've read so much about lime plaster letting brick breath but for a cavity construction, is it even beneficial?
I am a plasterer :( albeit one with only limited experience, only worked with board and multi.
Might I be best just using lime plaster then?
The house is double skinned, exterior being engineered brick, which I assume would negate any benefit to using lime, as the brick itself can't breath? So...
Some plaster has blown and I'm wondering if it's lime based? I've licked it to test but couldn't taste any limes ;). There are clumps of hair dotted throughout it if that's any indication.
Also If it is lime am I okay to use thistle bonding instead?
And I've chipped off all the blown plaster...
The failed dpc was injected, the new one is physical.
Yeh there are plenty of air bricks.
It's clear now that the outside walls need repointing/rendering and instead of being told that I was told I need new dpc :(
They didn't know, I suspected before I asked them round to investigate. They confirmed it was blocked when they removed the bricks in the corner to place dpc. They have put the weep holes on the inside I assume because thats where they had already removed bricks.
No one has patched up with...
My partner saw them removing the debris from the cavity. How did they know what sorry?
The metre was used on the internal not the external wall, sorry if that wasn't clear. They have put a cavity tray in by the weep holes.
The said the existing dpc had failed.
The original problem was we had damp coming in the front corner, above the dpc line, it looked like tracking damp from blocked cavities. We also had rotted joists ends along the front end of the house and water coming through the chimney breast from a hole...
They fitted a conventional dpc rather than an injected one which consists of:
Taking out two rows of bricks along the dpc line from the inside wall along the gable and front wall, placed a piece of dpc membrane under the new bricks, fitted weep holes and a top piece of dpc. They also pointed...
The external window frame, where it meets the brick had a seal around it that had cracked, similar to this - http://www.homepainterstoronto.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/exterior-caulking-windows-and-doors-during1.jpg
I could, but ideally like to just do it once.
dpc is roughly 8 weeks old now, it is definitely tracking rather than rising. Every time it rained we had a pool of water under a window (inside), I resealed the external frame last weekend, next time it rained there was no pool, but the internal...
No bonding has blown yet somehow.
Cavity wall has been scooped when new internal dpc was installed, no we are not below ground level. It does seem to be coming through the pointing on the external wall, no idea how it is bridging the cavity to the internal though now that the cavity is now cleared.
They took out two rows of bricks along the dpc line from the inside wall along the gable and front wall, placed a piece of dpc membrane under the new bricks, fitted weep holes and a top piece of dpc. They also pointed the corners of the gable wall and chimney benching. My research suggested this...
I can't repoint and after spending 2.5k on a conventional dpc because I was told this would fix the damp I also can't afford to pay someone right now.
Do you have any idea how the damp is bridging the cavity to come through the internal skin? I've had the cavity cleared of 'snots' etc, the only...
My gable end needs externally rendering to stop penetrating damp, but this can't be done until spring time. In the meantime I need to re-plaster said wall internally due to a blown skim coat. I'd like to stop the penetrating damp coming through the wall until I can render it, how is best to do...
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