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I currently have some plasterboard which has some of the ivory paper pulled off (not all over it, just some strips in places). Will this cause any issue when it is skimmed.

It's floorboards with about a 12"-18"space under the floor. Ground floor.

I am the plasterer:p

Skirting is about 4" deep

Currently replastering (floating) the bottom 6" of a wall to match the existing floated wall. I believe a gap should be left between the plaster and floor so that any damp or spillages are not soaked up by the plaster. What size gap should I leave between the bottom of the plaster and the...

Because I wanted to leave enough room for a skim coat, but did not get it quite right, as I am not skimming the whole wall it has to be level with the rest of the wall.

Thanks I assume a 4mm finishing coat would not be a good idea and would not bond well to the bonding coat ?

Can you put another thin (3mm) bonding coat on top of a thick (8mm) bonding coat ? Will it fastern ok if I pva it ?

Yea but can you imagine how much polyfiller it would take :-) Do I just dampen the bonding coat with water ? Or pva?

I was not intending to skim the whole wall (it's quite large). This is more of a patch repair. Are you suggesting just dampen the bonding coat with a spray of water, and not pva ?

The bonding coat is recessed by about 2mm , to allow for the finishing coat. So do I put pva on it and at what strength ? It's touch dry but will have only been on the wall for about 16 hrs

So do I put pva on it and at what strength ? It's touch dry but will have only been on the wall for about 16 hrs

It's about 10mm thick ? What to you call totally dry ? Whilst it's dry to touch, I guess it will take a week or so to dry out ?

30 inches by 18 inches

Ok, I have but on the bonding coat, about 3pm, it has firmed up but no doubt will take a while to dry out. Now I am going to put the finish on tomorrow about 10am. I assume that I need to pva it (even though it won't have totally dried out) ? Do I put one or two,coats of pva on it ? What...

I am going to do a repair to a wall which means that I will be applying a bonding coat. Once I have applied this, should I make it flat and trowel it up, before applying the finishing coat, or should I just apply it without going over it with a trowel and then score it to give a better...

Yes

The boxes have yet to be secured in and cement added above so it is flush with the brick. I.E. hole filled in

I have a wall that has been plastered (base coat and then skimmed), now in one part, there is a lot of plastic ducting (and it's back to brick, no plaster) and I am concerned if I try to plaster it, it won't stick. So the easy way is to put a piece of plasterboard over it. However how do I...

Yes I mean bonding coat

After I have applied a base coat of plaster, should I apply PVA to it before I add the skim finish ?

Good point, if I put in a breeze brick, do I need to render the face of it with cement first or can I just PVA it and then add a bonding coat

It's the internal wall.

It's a patch about 10 inch square, looks like the previous owner knocked out a complete breeze block

No, if I was a builder I,would have learnt to plaster, and would not have to ask

Looks like there is conflicting views, can you please explain how I should do,it

I am not, this is another part of the wall. Any advice would be appreciated as I have only ever skimmed plaster

I currently have an area of wall that has been skimmed with new cement - it has not been smoothed, so is fairly rough (and I guess porous). I need to apply a bonding coat of plaster (before adding a skim finish). Do I need to do anything special, do I need to add a PVA, if so how many coats?

I currently have a hole in a wall that I intend to brick up with engineering brick. No issues wth this. However I the need to plaster over it. Given that the face of the engineering brick is very smooth, will a bonding coat of plaster stick to it, also do I need to Pva it.

Thanks, that's what I was hoping.

I am looking at getting a room re skimmed, can someone advise me what normally happens to the electrical socket boxes, are they removed and re fitted to be level with the new skim of plaster or are they left in their original position and just be come slightly recessed ?

I currently have a internal wall that is back to breeze brick, which I am considering. Floating and skimming rather than using plasterboard. If I do float the wall and skim, how long will it take to dry out properly, to a position where I can apply emulsion paint ( Dulux kitchen emulsion paint).

can someone please tell me which of the two types of beading I should be using. (And what the other should be used for. The corners I need to put beading on are on plasterboard that has been dot and dabbed, so there is no wood under the plasterboard at the corners. It will just be skimmed...

Thanks Flynnyman, that's really helpful. Roughly what diameter should i make the dabs of glue, and how many do I need on a 1200 x 2400 board ?

Now you can say what you like, but I would appreciate some helpful advice. I am putting some plasterboard up on a very uneven wall, and I am not confident I can get it level, simply by dabbing it, and aligning it with a spirit level. As such I just want today it and push the plasterboard onto...

Dat and dabbing plasterboard

what do you make your dots out of, bits of wood or plasterboard ? Also What size do you make the dabs of glue ?

Having got some plasterboard to put up, I know that I should put a complete line of adheasive across the top of the board to meet the building regs, the question is do I need to put adheasive all around the edges of the board to stop insects etc getting in? Or just a number of dabs over the rest...

Is it ok to dry line an external kitchen wall with normal plasterboard or does it need special boarding?

Which is the reveal, the wall board or the recessed board ? Will have to get a left handed saw !

Thanks, it's my own, so want it to be as near as perfect as I can get it.

Oops did not see the typo. Does it matter which way I arrange the corners or should I really miter them ?

Will indeed be beading and skimmong it. Are you serious about metering the corners ! Have difficulty believing that anyone would do this due to the time involved ?

currently I have to make a corner into a door recess with plasterboard. Which way do I join the corner. I.e. Do I have the wall board largest covering the edge of the board that joining at 90 degrees (from the recess). Or the other way round Or does it not matter ?

currently I have a wall that contains a door recess of about 8" deep. I need to plasterboard the wall and the recess. Clarelr where the wall joins the recess there is a 90 degree corner which I will have to but up the plasterboard. As both wall and recess will be dabbed and doted, do I need...

Excellent what about 400mm center's ?

And it is a ceiling

Should have said, the board will be skimmed with plaster.

should I leave a small gap (say 1-2mm) between each plasterboard sheet or should it be as tight as I can get it to physically fit. Not sure if after i have put the scrim on it, there needs to be a gap for the plaster to go in so it does not crack ?

Currently putting some plasterboard on a ceiling, now as one sheet of plasterboard will not cover the whole width it needs s large piece and small piece. Now as I understand you should alternate the long and short pieces on each row (brickwork style), so there are never two short pieces next...