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:bananahappy: Suckered?

I love a piss take :)

Standard scratched Limelite Renovating Plaster. Limelite Hard Impact Finish, is applied straight on….

Just finished putting on the Limelite Rnovating Plaster and probably going to use Limelite High Impact Finish. Been reading some horror stories about the application - any experience on here about applying….Tips, do's don'ts etc Much appreciated for all feedback :)

This one's a property I own, so want to do the righting - what would be best?

Thanks for everybody's help - much appreciated. I've finished the slurry aspect (including fillet with FebTank Plug) and about to use Limelite Renovating Plaster. Reading the spec on it, it is expected to shrink a little and also to crack due to the lime content (manufacturers data). They say...

Hi - any particular reason - easiest, waterproofness or some other reason?

Is that based upon the cost saving - using s/c or other reason? I think the waterproofer I have in the van is the Everbuild Concentrate (that has salt inhibitor in it).

Just completing tanking coats and looking to overcoat render. Have used Everbuild Febtank. Their data sheet states Renovating Plaster OR Cement Based Render: SUBSEQUENT OVERCOATING: FEBTANK SUPER is suitable for overcoating once correctly and thoroughly cured. Plaster: If plaster is to be used...

Any particular dust?

Stupid question maybe, but going to ask anyway. Just doing the K11 tanking and rather than using their sulphate resistant ready render (£'s), I'm using the alternative sand/cement 4:1 with SBR 1:4 BUT can I use Blue Circle General Purpose Cement or must it be Portland OPC?

RICS surveyor took measurements - I had take 'basic' relative readings with a non specialised damp meter to get 'relative' readings to good dry wall/surface. The water is a combination of rising and penetrating damp. The penetrating damp has been fixed but obviously the rising damp cannot be...

Re Seanlar….. So basically you used the fat lime to allow the wall to breath, so any damp in wall simply evaporates/breath naturally. I don;t follow the second part of your message - wrt nil 3.5?

Re DJM68…. In my original posting (ignore typos), what's stopping me not hacking of back to stone? The current cement render is damp, if I hack back to the original stone, it'll be damp undoubtedly.

The rendering is to the floor. The damp readings increase as you go up the wall from the floor to a distance of approx 0.5 m The floor is dry and the wall is dry up until the floor DPM stops (approximately 2 inches), so in summary I suspect that the damp below the floor is barriered by the DPM...

Somebody painted the walls with an acrylic type paint (won't help with the breathing). The dark line is obviously where I removed skirting. If you look carefully, you can see the floor dpm (blue)….

Floor is cement and has a membrane. Floor is dry. Outside walls are rendered and not leaking/cracked. Walls are 18-24 inch thick. I have damp walls 'up' approx 2 foot on met walls. I was going to tank using Febtank. Internal walls are cement render finish and am wondering wether I hack...

Hi, what did you do in the end, what did you use , how did you apply it and what was the final finish like?

As the title states….:)

Hi I posted a thread on here regarding dreadful external rendering that had been performed on my cottage. I intend to not have the original renderers back as the job is awful. Another plastering contractor has recommended removing the previous shoddy work and replacing with Parex. He claims...

Scratch coat was 4 parts sand, 1 part cement + plasticise. Sprayed wall with diluted SBR. The top coat had cement, lime and sand - sadly I'm not sure of the ratios.

Hi all, I recently had render removed due to severe cracking etc and had it replaced. However, the guys doing it just don;t seem to be able to get a smooth or even level finish. In some places it's also lumpy and other places smooth. Previously it was roughcast and reconsidering, I wish I had...