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For what its worth, I generally leave it till next day and then go at it with an 8mm nail float to give a dimpled finish Only ever used Pral M, can anyone advise on how else to finish Weber ? I've heard it rubs up with a sponge like S&C - any other suggestions, just trying to broaden my...

Does S&C stick to a scratch coat of Weber Pral M ? Chap has scratched the walls of his garage with some left over gear from another Mono job he had done and now wants me to top it in S&C cos he's run out of Mono Its stuck like sh!t to a blanket just thought I'd check with you guys on here If...

Ha ha ha ha The chap in the photo taught me everything I know - He's not a Ken, he's a Colin (Warren) and because we both live down in Poole, Refina (whose factory is in Poole) send him all their new gear to test and he appears in their catalogues He dont look as fresh as that now lol

Alright lads, I know you cant / shouldn't tile straight onto Bonding or Hardwall, but can someone just explain why ? Someone told me its because they are too porous, but surely a skim coat over the top prior to tiling is pretty porous too ?

Cheers guys, some very valid points there - will certainly give it some serious thought

Just curious guys - are most of you sole traders or do most of you have lads working for you ? I only ask cos I've figured the only decent way to earn decent coin is to have a couple of guys that you can either employ or sub work out to - theres only so many days in the week so a plasterers...

Can you bond it out mate ? - Its a bit hit and miss but you can free-hand a radius quite easily and the beauty of Bonding is that it can be scraped to shape once its started to set - once you are happy with the curve you can just skim it

Or a spatterdash coat using SBR painted on first ??

I'd be interested to see what the guys say here - I'd use Weber Rend aid, but I'll probably get laughed of the forum and told to use Bostik with a bit of grit thrown in lol

Cheers guys, its being converted into a lounge if that makes any difference with the 'possibility' of a dwellling above it later on down the line, hence firecheck boards for the ceiling

Just a quick one guys - I have been asked by a potential customer whether building regs specify a minimum depth of flooor screed for a garage conversion ? I told the guy it would need to be around 75mm deep but if I could get away with 50 then obviously the cost would be slightly less. Also...

Any of you guys work for a set price per metre for rendering or just estimate how long its gonna take plus materials ? I only ask cos Ive been doing alot of Weber mono jobs recently and was thinking of charging £30 a sq metre to supply and apply ? So for a garden wall 20 sq metres I'd charge...

Cheers guys, told the fella to forget it, he wasn't happy but then I guess he saw a load of money for doing f4ck all fly out the window !!

And also, the job spec says the cement should be 3.5 newton metres ?? What does that mean ?? Think this is one to swerve and let a big gang take it on

Anyone give me a rough idea of a labour only rate for S&C render in the Bolton area ? Im based down in Dorset and the going rate down here is between £15 & £20 with material added on top. Been asked by a fellow spread to do a render job in Bolton next week with him - Its 260 sq metres and...

Im clutching at straws arent I

Cheers Irish, excuse my incompetence but what do you mean by 'scud them' ?

Just a thought lads, the garage door was a bit sticky and had to be slammed shut . I dont suppose that the slamming of the garage door and the 'green' scratch coat could have contributed to the scratch coat blowing ?? The couple were always in and out of the garage whilst I was working Whaddya...

Spongebob, I did exactly that and as expected they asked why I had applied mono over S&C - I guess to cover their arses. The only reason I did a S&C scratch was because the blockwork was so out of sorts I wanted to get it somewhere handy before applying a top coat. What should I have done ...

With respect guys, what is so stupid about putting Weber over S&C - Ive seen it done loads of times before with no bad results - The mono has stuck like sh1t to a blanket to the scratch coat, its the scratch coat that has failed.

Alright lads, Posted a thread a week or so back about blown Weber Mono on a sand & cement scratch coat. Just been to have a good look at it and its the scratch coat thats come away from the blockwork underneath - the mono is stuck to it like sh1t to a blanket. Any ideas why the scratch coat...

How do you mean Chris, sorry - would I then render over them aswell ?

Alright lads, Went to see a chap today who has built a small, circular border wall around some raised flower beds. Its only 3 courses of brick above ground level and the length of a brick wide. He wants it rendered, simple enough, but rather than a nice crisp beaded edge he wants it bevelled...

Just done a mono job, Weber Pral M - Cheapest I found was Sheffield Insulations at £8.50 a bag plus VAT. Travis wanted £14 + vat !! I think they have outlets all over the UK, just go on their website and find the nearest one to you - I ordered 30 bags so not quite a pallet and they only...

Interesting post Smooth Moves and one I hope you dont mind me jumping on the back of. In a nutshell, I just rendered a bungalow in Weber Pral M but part of the garage blockwork was in such a bad state I decided to S&C scratch coat it all first to get it somewhere handy. Layed on my Monocouche...

8mm Nail float Nelly, gives it that pitted effect, looks really nice

Would be much appreciated Plasterjfe !!

Yeah thats a thought - I'll give the Weber helpline a bell tomorrow methinks - cheers for all your replies lads

It was as rough as a bears arse Bruce, blockwork all over the shop which is why I put a scratch coat on first

Ha ha ha hope I haven't opened a can of worms here guys. Just out of interest, if I did hack off the bottom 4 inches or so, what would I do with the exposed blockwork ? S&C render the bottom 4 inches ?

Guys, One says I'll be fine another says cut back - aaaargh, what should I do ??

Bugger - really ? I did mention it to the spread who helped me for a day but he said it would be fine - hope he's right !!

Should I not have gone to the floor Bruce ?? Like I said, first time - what should I have done mate ? And Plasterjfe, going back tomorrow to put all guttering back - as for how did I find it - I learnt not to play with it very quicklly else it starts to tear but on the whole, I really enjoyed...

Just be interested in your comments guys on the link below - First monocouche job Ive ever done, I'm quite proud of the end result... http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=224532&id=170600123064

Brick or block ? - If you could see it, its a right hotch potch , theres Celcons, breeze block, timber and bricks all cobbled together - the bloke who dunnit looks like he built it with whatever he had to hand !!

Evening lads, Quick question if you dont mind - On Friday I'm gonna be rendering 30 sq metres (so not a lot) on a bungalow using Weber Pral M OCR Ive never used the stuff before but have a time served spread helping me. So between now and Friday I want to get the prep work spot on so we can...

I know we hate posts on pricing but I'll keep it short and sweet 30 sq metres of existing render to hack off, set about 20 metres of corner / bellcast beads then re-render with weber monocouche Ive gone in at £1600, ive allowed myself a week ( at 150 per day labour) to do it all - that price...

right, got the job guys, its only 30 square metres all told, so reckoning on 35 bags of Weber to allow for wastage ? Also, could you let me know what tools (other than trowel & hawk) I'll need to scrape it, cheers

Morning all, Is there any difference between the 2 products ? From looking online, for normal domestic application I should be using Weber Pral M or K Rend silicone FT ?? Also what should I be paying a bag ? Had a quick look at some suppliers and they are quoting 20 quid a bag !! Seems dear...

Alright lads, Went to look at a bungalow today where a textured finished ( i think its a polymer based, high clad or something similar) has bubbled away from the substrate quite badly in a lot of areas. - The property has the old lime render that has been 'sealed' by the coating and so has...

Cheers Kirk lad, much appreciated !!

Cheers guys, all advice much appreciated - Phil

Morning lads, just got a call from a loyal customer - wants me to pebble dash the front of his conservatory to match the house. The area we are talking about is minimal - 2 breeze block faces about 2 foot wide by 8 foot high either side of patio doors - thats it. Never done it before and told...

The trick is letting people know you have a website - make sure you keep on top of Google ad-words or something similar so you are high on the list of search engine results - Oh and make sure its all over your van !! Not sure how many jobs Ive actually got from mine, but when I'm quoting, I...

Went to price a job last week, medium sized lounge ceiling and long thin hallway ceiling, both artexed, customer wants them both skimmed. I gave her a price of £160, days labour I thought and a couple of bags of multi. She looked at me in sheer disbelief expecting a price of nearer £500 and...

Am I gonna do the job ? Even more unbelievably she's 'happy' with the sockets, wants me to re-skim the ceiling cos its as rough as old boots !!! I tell thee ??

Check this link out lads - not sure if the photo will appear on here, but click on the link and it should take you straight to it. Was called to sort out a job (that I had previously lost cos the customer thought I was too dear) - Wanted an annexe to her wedding shop boarded and skimmed - Look...

Like Phippsy says, dont get the 500W bulbs - go for 250 - they provide ample light for most situations (not sure about a gloomy barn) and dont get nearly so hot - Last alot longer !

Cant speak for others, but theres no way I'd be Hardwalling an entire house !!! Too much hassle Dab em chief

Suction my friend !!! That noise of snap crackle & pop is the bonding coat sucking all the moisture out of your skim coat - If you can, always try and skim onto bonding the same day - its normally firm enough after 3-4 hours depending on heating conditions - that way, whilst its still green, it...