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Try Sto, I'm sure they can sort you out

Bossed means blow, seperating from the brick, Scottish chat! :RpS_biggrin:

Been ask to price a house with lots of bossed render, to be fair its at least 40-50 years old but its about 400 yards from the sea front. Will the salt air affect the render and if so how?

Been using R&Js scrim for a while, its pretty good and around £1.50 a roll.

Whats the best way to render onto SBR? Tech spec says mix with cement, one coat let it dry then another, render while tacky. I was told the same from techical manager from a leading chemical company. Bloody messy though as when mixed with cement it dries black and goes everywhere, nightmare to...

Looks grim in this photo! Its the same job i put last post about, house was built in 1930s and maybe they thought it looked the dogs or the brickie had a liquid lunch!

Another quick querie regarding the house we're doing. Personally don't think its a good idea to render the window reveals without removing the Silicone, nightmare of a job, alternative is to fit PVC stop beads over the Silicone butted up to the window frame, i would normally dab them on with S&C...

Cheers guys

Whats the crack with these G-Tech boards?

We're K Rending the full house and extension. These photos are the original house, the extension is nearly finished. Think the pointing was done as a feature, the house was built in the 1930s.

Photos!

Think i'm there tomorrow if the weathers decent! I'll get some as soon as i can.

Started a rendering job, the windows have steel lintels which are exposed at the top and as the building is around 70 years old they are starting to show slight signs of rust. Was wondering best method of covering them?

Was thinking about tanking it, we do some damp proofing work but only internal and we work for the damp proofing companies. Can i use Delta Lath? and if so how do i fix it? Delta Plugs surely won't take the weight of the render?

Got this picture this morning, turns out there are weep holes but they were rendered over! :RpS_mad:

I've not seen it since this morning as i stripped a very small area and left the lab to it but the wall was soaking underneath. Don't think there's any drip holes and definately no stop beads at the bottom of the wall, its rendered down to the ground. i'll have a look at it in the morning and...

Another picture

Started stripping these 2 large garden walls today, the existing render was put on around 2 years ago by another contractor and its starting to fail already. (See Pictures) The walls are badly cracked and a lot of the paint is flaking off. I noticed when we were stripping it the the walls...

Who the **** dabs boards? Thats what i thought!

Did you take the water marks off after polishing?

How do you guy's d&d? Dab the wall or the board? Just curious

We've been using Refina bucket trowel 10", but they seem to break after not a very long time and we are spending top dollar on them as they are around £23 each! Does anyone know where we can get the same size (10 inch) or bigger for less candy? We've tried ebay but they all seem to be 7 inch...

Read the spec it lets the wall breath because its not sealed to the wall.

Can't use stop beads as it was taped and filled! Hoover and a brush is'nt going to get all the dust out of the oak grain! Also oak will move anything up to an inch due to temperature change.

Lath membrane should be fixed at 250mm centres to stop movement, if its moving or flexing a lot its going to cause a problem. 9 times out of 10 dot & dab 9mm board as long as it does'nt protrude from existing wall. If it does coat membrane with scratch coat of bonding and let it set, if you dont...

Thanks to all for your input, its much appreciated. We ended up taping and filling in case we burnt the oak. It would of taken days to cover it all. We used a drywall sanding kit to finish but the disk sander can't get into the corners because of the circular head so we had to sand all...

Bod, what kind of masking tape did you use, was it 3m stuff as Church mentioned, my main concern with masking tape was that it would'nt stick when we started plastering due to the moisture, also the oak is still wet as it was fitted in November and the building was'nt wind and water tight until...

Joiners on site seem to reckon that the Gaffer Tape might stain the oak, i've covered an off cut to test it and we'll need to see if it has a reaction come Monday morning. Masking tapes no use it'll fall off half way through plastering because of the moisture then i'm really screwed!

Need some help on this one. We're starting a job on Monday and its untreated exposed oak every where, theres no ceiling as the full oak roof is exposed and there are oak colums everywhere, middle of walls. corners etc. (Horizontal and Vertical). Obviously we need to protect the oak at all costs...

We did a nursing home at the start of the year and it was around 60 or so ceilings to cover the Artex. We put food colouring in the PVA and it worked really well. As always the ceilings were white and it was hard to tell when you missed bits!

Applicator for tape is crap, great idea but not practical. Also bought about 80 rolls of "Fibatape" and 100 rolls of Mammoth Scrim (Everbuild). Thought the Fibatape would be great but after using it and watching it fall off it'd rate the Mammoth scrim as the best of the two.

Its not worth taking the risk, the Asbestos content is minimal but think about how often you do these jobs!

We've had similar problems with some of our suppliers but Gorilla have always been good but they do pester you. Bought 200 rolls of scrim from Obas and they changed it 3 times, every time it was crap but they took it back in the end up. Bought Cornercare beads from Obas and they're not as rigid...

We normally advise customers to use Leyland Super Leytex paint, its the dogs b*ll***s, its a high opacity paint for new plaster. we have tried watering down paint, "sizeing" watering down PVA to seal the plaster, cheap emulsion etc. Its all crap. Two coats of Super Leytex and it looks great, no...

Does any one know how the old school players used to form the external rounded corners in the first place? I've skimmed plenty and are bang on.(its all in the wrist) Also the same with DPC work but i had the level to work to at the top of the wall.

Twitchers rock, wet all the way. Does take a bit of getting used to.

walls with paint should be scored first. PVA should be skimmed over while its damp otherwise the dry shiny glue surface will give you the same problem as the painted surface. save all the hassle use thistle BOND IT (not bonding) its made for surface prep and key, apply with roller This is all...

Try www.sovereignchemicals.com

It says on the the Multi bags do not over mix. We do this for small sets to save time. Have you never noticed that when you pick up bags of spent mix that has been overmixed its really warm! Anyway Refina drills all the way, the professionals choice. :)

We used Durafinish on a cafe/conference centre and its not great to work with. Its a bit like chewing gum on the hawk, did'nt finish as well as multi. We used it on the lower parts of the walls that were prone to impacts and feathered into multi for the top (walls were up to 6m high). Weird...

We've been nailing beads with 40mm galv ringshanked nails for years except on solid corners when we dot and dab them. One of the companys we work for have had us back a couple of times for snagging as the beads are cracking around windows and doors on some jobs! We could'nt understand it as its...

Very well said big man!

Don't know whats causing it, i normally lay on a lot with both coats. First coat gets one flatten then it gets topped. Don't play with it too much and its normally had a chance to pull in by the time the second coat is on. We normally do about 30 - 40 metre sets so it takes at least a half hour...

What do you mean by a bumper? is that when the poor labourer is knocking up multi with a plunger?

We put our MM30 mixer in for a repair as apparently the gears and motor were gone,it was only a year and a half old. Refina serviced it and put new gears and motor in it, cost us £200, when it came back it was'nt as powerful! Very strange! We've got a M22 which is older than the MM30 and its...

I get these dimples too sometimes, normally we mix the first coat so its like chocolate mousse, not too thick but not too runny, if its too runny it goes everywhere and you cant get enough on the wall. We normally do 30-40 metre sets so if its a thin coat it will go off quicker and its a...

I've noticed the smell of amonia on some jobs we've done, there must be a certain amount in multi. Only happens occasionally on reskims, something must cause it to react and you can smell it.

What is contract emulsion never heard of it before?

I should think so, We would'nt tackle a 60m2 ceiling unless we had 3 spreads. One of which is doing the mixing etc in between. Also depends on the height, i hate 3m ceilngs it much more work!

Why don't you try double coating with Multi?