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can any of you lads help me out ,whats the meterage rate,[ labour only] for applying silicone thin coat , including the base coats and webbing i usually charge £20 a metre for krend , labour only.. is it the same or dearer taking into account all the prep work with the base coats and webbing...

good point about the suction .. thanks mate

thanks mate ... think i will just use normal sand .. perhaps the kiln dried will be too fine

the tyrolean has blown off the surface of a property in large areas...the existing render is now exposed. it looks ok , just the odd crack here and there,.i was thinking that i could just use a slurry of sbr and cement onto the render , wait till its gone tacky, and then apply my tyrolean...

can anyone please help me out .. ive got to do a job soon . the customer wants the render to imitate big stone blockwork .. ive seen it on plenty of big buildings and always wondered how it was done .. please help anyone ..

the smaller ones arent very good , theres just no flex in the blade. but the big ones 18 , 20 and 24 inch are awesome the sponge backer works brlliantly. i only use my steel for putting on and laying in now

ive gotta admit ive never had any problems in the past it just pisses me off when they dont communicate.. and the only way to deal with it is to take your business elsewhere but i think they are the only distributers for the trowels .. a plasterer has designed them and sells them to refina

they said they are having problems with the glue and promised to replace the 2 blades i had problems with .. this was over 3 weeks ago .. every time i try to speak to the tech guy , peter gray, they say hes not available and he never returns my calls ... if i could buy them elsewhere i would not...

is anyone experiencing any problems with the s*p*r*lex trowels from refina , the black plastic ones, in particular the 20 inch and 24 inch with the sponge backer. the blade keeps coming away from the sponge . the glue just isnt strong enough.. does anyone know if you can buy them anywhere else...

you shouldnt really skim over limelite with multi or board finish . it forms a barrier and nullifies its benefits ie breathability.. you need to use high impact finish ..

yeah was goin to mesh out... the brick work is really bad internally

i would have quoted about 5600 labour only... trouble is the customer bangs on about quality but when it comes down to it they wouldnt know quality if it bit them in the ass..all they are interested in is gettin the job done as cheap as possible... weve just come off a job board and skim some...

im goin over brickwork and some block work which has been painted , will i need to use rend aid first ?

hey up lads.. can anyone advise on applying monocouche .. do i need a special base mix and then topcoat over with monocouche.. my desired finish has got to be smooth..many thanks

everything bar the bathroom....

bloody hell mate thats cheap ... .. i was thinkin around 2200 including materials .. but ive some seen some lads quoting 4k plus..

south cheshire.. mate

hey up lads .. whats the average price for an over skim .. no patching on a 3 bed terraced.. any ideas ,with materials in the price... many thanks

i posted a while back about rendering some kennels and the need for the render to withstand power washing each night.. got some good advice but couldnt source the products ... was wondering if i could incorporate granno into the topcoat mix if i could get it fine enough .. also the customer...

thanks lads thats spot on ... even a sabretoothed greywip ;D wouldnt damage those mixes .. should be the answer to his problems

ive got to render the inside of dog kennels where working dogs are kept ... the owner has had experience with render before , of the dogs scratching at it back to the brick . can i use some sort of additive or is there a product available as an alternative to s & c .. is limlite an option ...

im gettin some marshalltown stilts in the next fortnight .. my mates gettin them for me from the states , $189... thats £90 ... this is gonna sound really stupid but ive been thinkin , how do i get my stuff out of my bucket ? . will i need a spot and stand ? ..

cheers lads .... thanks for the tips

hey up lads ...can someone just refresh my memory about applying tyrolean ... i know i need to make passes at 45 degree angles , left to right , right to left and then straight on .. do i cover the area with one pass left to right let it go off then go over right to left letting each pass go off...

ive just skimmed a house , now the customer wants me to sort out the exterior ...the house has been covered with tyrolean and there have been some attempts to do repairs around new windows and waste pipes etc but they look absolutely s**t !.. one patch has been done with a stipple brush !! .. he...

sounds good , what are the details , who do you contact?

nice one lads.. understand now about the integration of the lime and thanks for the ratios. im not too sure about the original scratch coat , the problem is i cant get it off . its absolutley solid. what issues will arise if i have to leave it in situ...even with a new key will there be problems...

if i use hydrated lime in my mix for exterior rendering to give me more time to work with it , assuming i use a mix of 4.1.1 , how do i integrate the lime ... do i mix it with water first and leave for a number of days or do i just shovel it in to the mixer with the s and c ... or is it easier...

nice one mate ... your always spot on .. the jobs not that big that i need a whole section , just thought i could repair a few cracks all at once by running the horse along it .. will they repair like this or will i have to do some more preparation on them .. many thanks

what is the best stuff to use to repair the old cornice in old houses .. is there a specific plaster that i can use , or will i have to knock up the old style lime plaster.. im thinking of using the original method with a horse and template running on runners on the wall and ceiling ... any one...

instead of butting my joints up along the wall i splice them like the chippys do with skirting board .. if you splice them away from the point of entry of the room they become invisible

i use a 18 in marshalltown for layin on and flatten off ... a 14in tyzak for trowellin up.. i think marshalltown make a carbon steel trowel like the tyzak but not tried it .. marshalltowns seem to be thicker in the guage .. british steel , still the best

yeah i charge about that for s and c ... this job is big , one room is 104 msq .. so you can see i need to set my rate right for the boarding . not much use goin on the day rate , yeah the job will still get done but the potential to earn is far greater on the metre rate . you will get rewarded...

bloody hell mate thats cheap ... i was thinking around the 8.50 mark for skimming .. thats what i charge ... how do you price up for your boarding then , say you are doing a ceilling , dont you do it by the metre then ?

ive still not put my quote in for a barn con . i was goin to quote on day rate but then got to thinkin about price per metre , it will reward us more if we put more effort in .. so how much is the average for boarding out and insulating .. ive got a price for skimming should i set it just below...

nice one mate youve been a great help ... think im gonna have to question the site managers choice of spec for insulation , i dont think changing the battons is an option as its a big job and all the exterior walls have already been done ... atleast when i talk to him now i know what hes on...

sorry gary got another question .. the spec for the exterior walls is 55mm insulation and 12.5 mm board .. i take it the insulation i use is something like cavity batt so that it compresses behind the board , the battons are only inch so its got around 30mm to compress ? .. what length screws do...

thats absolutley spot on mate ... thanks alot

been to look at a job today ... a barn convertion.. everything is studded out and the walls are all battoned .. the site manager says he wants 55mm insulation on the exterior walls and 12.5 mm board .. but then he mentioned a couple of things i wasnt sure about .. the window reveals need...

cheers mate .. see what you are meaning now ... ive just been to have a look at the job .. dont think its possible . the floor has been concreted upto the bottom of the damp proof course , which would mean at the minimum level of 2.5 inches i would be nearly bridging the dpc . also the new door...

i use a marshalltown 18 inch for laying and flattening , but i wouldnt use it to trowel up .. ive got a tyzack 14 inch , the guage of metal is slightly thinner so there is a bit more give when trowelling up . the marsalltown is less forgiving ... not heard of carbon blades though ..

nice one lads ... think the floors are just gonna get laminate flooring over the top , ones gonna be tiled ... thanks for the advice . 3 to 1 with just enough water .. not to sure i understand about soaking the sand first but not adding any water . just out of interest , what is the minimum...

hey up lads .... got to sreed 3 floors next week .. whats the best mix ratios .. ive always erred on the side of a stronger mix .. whats best ? .. 4 sharp / grit sand to 1 cement, just enough water to bind ... many thanks

thanks lads ... i wish i could rip it down but the bloke doesnt want the mess ..what diameter board is best , taking into account the added weight , is it 9.5mm... also can you give me some advice on power tools for fixing the screws , which are the best ones and prices ... many thanks

hey up lads ..i need to board over an existing ceiling ... whats the procedure .. many thanks

cheers mate .. im gonna order one and give it a try ..

sorry for takin so long to reply , been dead busy .. its a good reference book for any terminology you will come across .. although there is alot about building alsorts of moulds .. all told its a good book to read if you come across a tricky situation ... hope this helps

hey fos .. whats the idea behind the hydrated lime ?

been on the refina website , theyve got some brilliant tools on there ... im interested in the sponge floats and there usage ... can anyone explain .. im just used to using a walloping brush when trowelling up .. is there any advantages with the sponge ...

exellent idea .. when i was taught the old guys told me that was the advantage of using bonding , you could skim over it the same day .... many thanks