Agreed. The flex trowels are just like using a very well worn in steel trowel. The fine flexible edge and the rounded corner. The advantage of a very well worn trowel is that it wears to the user, the disadvantage is that it's like a bereavement when someone drives a forklift over it.
It's...
Snap.
Only had 4 small walls in a high hallway and every one went off different and some went off diff top/bottom due to height (no air movement at top). By time one oclock ticked I saw sense and abandoned the idea of getting another set on. Finished early...
And...(wtf)...one patch on one wall...
If you want to go that route, prob best just temp pin the riblath/EMF in place and then drill and red plug some galvanised banding along the length to keep it in place (stainless screws?). Prob overkill though.
With 6mm drill and 5mm screws you can use the plug/screw combo as a through-fixing...
Not really noticed multi being that bad meself but...
Problem is, after years of making bags thinner and thinner, some t**t at BG has now decided to start glueing the bags together to stop them slipping off pallet. Fine for plastic mastercrete bags, not so clever for paper plaster bags...
Pboard won't take the heat. Neither will skim. Or anything gypsum based.
Need victas stuff.
Or just get it tiled.
On a side note, you can skim cement board if gritted. Had to do it in a bathroom once where shower area had been cement boarded wider than enclosure. Blended to plasterboard one...
Smooth as.
Needed a bit of sponge work. Was quietly relieved considering one wall was gritted. If worst came to worst I could have whisked a small mix up but needed to get away.
After all I said about not one coating, I went and 1coated two small walls today.
Not really by choice, I was using up some leftover from the ceiling but then spent so long arsing about round the light fittings, smokes etc that the bucket went off. Couldn't be arsed doing another mix.
Do as I...
You were trying to trowel set plaster. That's a loooooonnngggggggg time to be working at a relatively small ceiling.
No matter how good the course, you're being given a bit of a hard time on here because you're claiming plastering knowledge whilst asking a question that (IMO) is the sort of...
Come on guys, no need to get so harsh. We're here to educate and enlighten so...
@cupoftea, your plan sounds fine. Just stick a single coat on over what you've done already.
I guarantee you will come out of it a wiser man.
:rolleyes:
Use fibres in first coat, second will cover them. tbh I've used them in both and they tend to trowel down.
The company I used to get them off has stopped doing the fine PP ones but google fibrebind and you'll find them. Also search the forums as they have been discussed several times.
You'll...
ye but yer kidz isunt fiftee for liyk im iz iz tha? am finkin evun it is fayk da kant stil needz bannin coz eze fakin anoyin an askin stewpid kwestshuns.
init?
You could just use fibres in the multi. I've used it before when skimming over dubious L&P ceilings. Never had a callback. Use 100mm scrim over any obvious existing cracks.
Cheaper and faster.
If it's there on a permanent basis, it will count as a building.
If it's outside of the building line, then you need (and won't get) planning permission.
Sticking it down the side (where a garge would be) should still need PP I think but unlikely anyone will care.
Makes it real easy if you ever...
Bit like @Cockney1 says but I'm more of a Bond-IT guy.
If you can't steam/soak it off, you won't be able to skim it off so just go over it.
Sounds like you're getting someone else to skim it? If so, might be best get them round and explain that you'll do the grunt work but check with them just...
It's not much more complicated than that. Dub out as @zolco said then get it on real quick. Needs to be wet IMO as you've no first coat to kill the suction. Needs to be fast as the usual problems with uneven drying/setting due to draughts and cold/warm patches are going to bite you twice as...
Agreed, easy enough to get a top notch finish 2-coating. With 1 coat you're just arsing about dodging problems like scrim or beads poking through (IMO). May be OK for small areas in domestic when you aren't pushed for time.
Interested to know if anyone regularly one coats (by hand)?
Fag packet calc shows that you only need about 375mm of bonding to match a 50mm insulation board. At least it saves lugging those cumbersome sheets of insulatoin about ;)
If you are in a conservation area I'd strongly advise ringing the local planning department. I'm pretty certain if you are replacing like-for-like then you don't, but you don't know if the wall was part of original build and you may be replacing something that shouldn't have been there in the...
He loves it, need to make a trowel with a smaller handle though. Not bothered about him going in to the trade, just nice to be have those father-son moments.:)
The stuff I use is designed for F&S or dab. Need proper plug spacing (250 c-c) and dab the plugs.
If you are going to S&C 1.5m up, you may as well keep going or float the top and skim it all.
Have the cavities been cleared? most 'rising damp' is bollox imo.
In your situation I would chip any loose, grit/Bond-it, patch and go again with some help. You need to be sure.
47m Ceiling on you're own is ballsy and more than I'd try on my tod. Possibly try a retarder as well to give you half a chance.
Possibly as most lime manufacturers explicitly warn against plasticisers and some 'waterproofers' seem to be all in one type products.
Excess air entrainment really kills the strength of lime mortars which is a possible cause?
Some masonary paints (latex based) can cover 2mm gaps, so would...
Yup. All the time.
Knackered them at the end of last year. Right shoulder is about OK now, left shoulder still knackered. Can't scratch the back of my head when it's bad and hurts like a bar steward in the morning.
Choice is to either keep taking AI or go see a physio/Doc/Chiro.
Should prob get...
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