Search results

Can you not get a fixing because the last joist is too far away from the wall? Can you fix galv angle to the existing wall then fix track to the angle? Depends how much the current wall kicks out. Alternatively cross batten the ceiling first then you can fix trim to the batten

Tackers requires for a site in Winchester and a site in Southampton. Both ready now. £3pm2 tacking, £1.10m2 insulation and £5.50m2 accross window for reveals. Call Alex 07738 259535

Do you finish with the Nela carbon or are you still using speedskim start to finish @Vincey ?

As mentioned, get some paint on it. And if there is imperfections give them a light rub with 120 grit sand paper and fill any hollows with easifill and again sand down. Or better still get it painted and if theres anything your not happy with tell your plasterer.

Biggest thing with domestics is managing customer expectations. There are different options with different prices. Majority of people I'd say go for a re-skim but as said above it's purely decorative. The walls should be a smooth paintable finish but they won't be straightened up much.

From what I've read, you'd need 2 vans just for all your trowels.:lol:

Heart rate, weight, age, where you're getting calories from etc all factor in. There is a formula that you can chuck all of that into and you will know how many calories you require just to function, loose weight, gain weight. I reckon a spread that's not chasing his arse burns 3000 if the...

No doubt there's the same gap at the bottom being covered by the skirting. There's nothing to worry about.

Is your mate a plasterer? I wouldn't price a wall without looking at it. Is the suite in? How big is it? What substrate? Is it 10th floor flat? What's parking like? Is there other bathrooms or is his dad likely to come in and take a hangover pat halfway through a gauge? To many variables to...

I guess it depends what you do most of the time. I know a domestic spread with a combi and always had small vans. I've got medium height medium wheel base transit and still need my lock up.

Never had an issue. I price it into jobs but I also keep a few XL rolls in van for those jobs were the brick work isn't covered as agreed or furniture hasn't been moved as agreed. Saves walking away from a job and disrupting the diary. Sticks well but doesn't take the paint off. Sticks well to...

Certain boards manufactured in 2016 had issues. BG were sending primer to sites to compensate or offered to refund PVA but only if it was Unibond. It was either over cooking at manufacture or the recycling process is what I was told "off the record"

As thread suggests; site work in Bournemouth, cscs card required. Float and set £7.50 pm2 (Just over 9000 m2) Skimming board £4.50m2 (Just under 6000m2) If you're interested please call Alex on 07738 259535

Used both and I'd recommend JUB all day long. You do rub it up but it's not quite like sand & cement as they'd have you believe. Also I'm finding it hangs around far too long to get any decent coverage rubbed up with the current weather.

Plasterer required for small site in Winchester 4-5 days little bit of making good but majority board work. Small s&c screed. £140 per day. UTR essential & CSCS preferable. Screeds available next week (earlier the better) plastering starts Friday 15th Call Alex 07903 089894

Done plenty of Jub systems on other backgrounds but only used it on thermolite block once and that was carbon base which sucked in like a pig. Been asked about doing it again. Recommendations please?

I've done them before with timber studs on gas fires which have been installed into chimneys plenty of times & did one this week on a breast housing a woodburner. All on the customers orders mind. I just used one board without any joints.

Gypliner's good as the metal stud sits on a bracket so if the heat creates any movement it should be the bracket that flexes and not the stud. That does depend on how hot it gets though.

Yer. Exactly! :muyenojado: Another plasterer told them it was the best way. I agreed to do it but told them no guarantees. The problem is the burners too deep in the chimney & too big for it.

I've got to do the inside of a chimney ready for woodburner tomorrow and Friday I've got to plaster a chimney breast that's been fireboarded as keeps cracking. Offered Victas as an option on both but they both decided against it. Refractory cements meant to be used but sand & cement with a bit...

You just have to manage expectations I suppose. Some people don't want the details they just want a price and a job done. The other plasterer has got a good reputation in the area but obviously took it for granted he knew what the customer wanted.

I know what your saying. You don't want to go on too much and talk yourself out of a job. I tell customers that most people just go for the skim but I always offer the other options.

I totally agree. I always email my quotes with an exact outline of the work being carried out, the materials being used etc and the areas being covered. just curious to see who else offers up the alternatives when pricing.

Went to price a job over the weekend. They'd recently had hall, stairs & landing plastered and weren't happy so decided to get quotes from different plasterers for their next job. The house is 1960's and hasn't had much done to it since then. The guy showed me the previous plasterers work and...

I've used that and their twin paddle version. Twin paddles no good in my opinion but the single is good enough. You used to be able to get them for under £100 online. It depends how many bags your knocking up at a time. If you work alone it's fine for 2 bags but I wouldn't recommend it for...

My Plazi got its final chance this morning. It's now gone back in the van where it will probably stay. Stick with my carbon steel. Probably says more about me than the trowel mind!

Give them a wipe after cleaning at the end of the day and you should be golden. They eventually go a black colour and don't seem to rust after that. I prefer the carbon over everything. Seems to stay straighter & doesn't nick as easily.

To be fair not sure how official it is. The guy on site was laying on with a s*p*r*lex, flattening with a plazi & final troweled with a steel! How do you make sense of that. My preference is 14" carbon steel trowel start to finish.

I agree but I've seen people flattening in with it though. Also the Nela promo video seems to suggest you do everything but lay on with it & in watching the video of the bloke using it the gear looks well soft. But like you say if its flexible you want the wall as flat as it can be by the time...

Saw a bloke on site today using one. he seemed to have it flatter but his finish had scuffs all over it. Like @BigK I was close to chucking mine but will prob give it another go if I get time. I'm definitely going to try the Nela again the way I think it's meant to be used but can't help think...

Only just got one of these as I'm boring and old fashioned preferring to lay on, flatten when it's set more & repeat with 2nd coat using carbon trowel. But I was under the impression the 'claim' was u could get on the gear earlier? I had a play around on Friday with this, Nela & speedskim using...

Saw that one but it says discontinued at the top by the product ID & won't let u add to cart unfortunately.

I've just had a brief look at the website. Does it have any texture? I've only used Jubb on EWI's.

Everywhere I look the Bosch is discontinued. Looks like the 12 is the replacement. Think I'm gonna go with the 1800 megamixer

Wudnt a smooth thin coat just be silicone paint?

Ive used the 1800w refina, 1600 w belle and bosch and the bosch is a different beast. Not as comfortable as H handles on the refina etc but so much torque! Im in the market for a new mixer and would go for the bosch if it wasnt £150 more than the refina which I know is up to the all the jobs I'd...

Too true. She just leaves me to rub up the 1.5mm on my own.

My missus has got a big shiny machine. She says it's quicker than me hand balling her too!

Looking to get a new megamixer mm30. Does anyone know any cheaper deals etc? May save me having to open another browser and search the internet myself.

I totally agree. I've worked for other spreads, in gangs etc on sites & domestic who use the same gear for both coats or go straight over the first coat and the finish is acceptable to the clients, site agents etc but I personally prefer the traditional method. Horses for courses though.

I managed to get my speedskim pole attachment onto my EZE Spat. Give it a go as like you said, you don't wanna be messing around with Allen keys during a set.

If its refurb work I'm guessing the walls need building out a bit to get them flat\flatter so thicker 1st coat and leave it a bit longer and you shouldn't get blistering. My preferred method is get the first coat spot on, let it get go off quite firm and then the second coats a breeze all with...

I keep my skimming stuff in a cheap canvas bag, rendering/floating stuff in a box with wheels, boarding stuff in a tool pouch & my ductape, rope & spade in a hidden compartment next to the back door with the locks cut off.

The inside of your van is like a Japanese hotel; storage cubby holes everywhere.

If your putting lines or ridges in it, then your probably going over it too soon. Or it could be the angle of your trowel, or how firm the plaster was when you put it on etc, etc etc. Practice on plasterboard to start with if you want to do more diy plastering so that you get use to how the...

I know an electrician who went on it. Said it was a good crack. He also said the homeowner had to foot a lot more costs than they make out.

Distempers the pits.

It's interesting what methods people use. I've gone over all of the above probably, except for the scutch hammer. (Only used that outside or on the missus.) also gone over PVA with sand in it but I feel as long as the paints sound then all it needs is a tacky coat of PVA and then it's good to...

Accurate tool repairs in Portsmouth have them in stock as I saw the mythical creatures with my own eyes today. They have an online shop.