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Have a look in homebase. That looks like an artex cove.

Bonne journee

They are bullet proof if looked after proper and much better than the k12 which ended up with far to many poorerly finished Renault parts in them.

Couldn't of been a factory one cos they never, ever, ever made one of those Micra with any kind of turbo at NMUK and I'm not sure they made one in Japan either.

There's nothing wrong with jumping in at the deep end.

You can get unibond white sanitary silicone for a lot less than that in home bargains ;)

Didn't mind a bit of the Meteor's back in the day. I've still got wrecking crew on vynil.

More like my fat old finger rolled onto the p, combined with no reading glasses and a devil may care attitude ;)

Noooooooooooooooooooop

Question 1, No Question 2, yes Basically, if I'm understanding you correctly, you are hoping a sheet of gypsum wrapped in paper is going to pull up bellies in the lathe and plaster. Trust me it will not.

It was airborne who posted the thread a few years back. As for colouring then experiment with paints and wood stains to get your colours right. Also if You wanted you could make a latex or silicone mold from old aged timber around knots and speed up the process of forming the knot.

I've seen labourers sent to do test panels on sites where the min price for a house was 300k ( and I'm going back pre 2008) and they have been signed off by the architect and site agent. The brickies could not believe their luck when they saw the standard that was deemed ok. I've also got an old...

My mate had a proper cosworth RS 500 not the 4x4 sapphire sheite, it would leave my GT turbo grasping and failing miserably to keep up.

I had a GT turbo raider for about a year in the early 90's and yes they could certainly shift.

It's a term used around and, north of the border for chase's and small patches. I've explained this before somewhere on here.

I stopped it as soon as he said, "just to touch base" Never trust a man who wants to touch base

Check all your gutters, down pipes and pointing etc and get a cavity inspection done. It could even be originating from somewhere on your roof or flashings. I would be surprised if there was nothing stuck in the cavity at those points.

I know a sparky who got An electric one a few years back on lease. Had customers asking for money off bill all the time cos he was having to charge it off their electric so he could get home. He has drove a diesel since the least was up.

At least you've got a diagnosis. The daughter in law had 4 years of being told it was sciatica before they finally did a scan then an operation. She's still working but obviously she's not having to do heavy work. Not a nice thing to have. Have you got an escape plan just incase ?

I was clearing the loft yesterday and found a product info pack the blue circle rep gave me in 1980. Colour charts for cullamix, snowchem and resin bound gear, alpine and high build, I had forgot they claimed cullamix could be used for pointing as well !!! You can still get snowchem the only UK...

I'm struggling to get my head around these new products chaps !!!!

I'll second that but never brave enough on big areas. Paranoia always got the best of me. Used to use it mono too but, only ever did small areas.

Have you tried 5-1-1

Yes, they are right.

Walked the dogs, sat in the sun oh and drank beer and smoked fags.

The most important question really Malc is what spec was asked for at the quote stage. I've successfully argued this with architects in the past, if you want level 5 finish you have to ask for it and, most importantly pay for it. That said I used to always ask how certain features were going to...

Go back in the dark and shine a 500,000 lumen torch either up or down his brick work. Then send him the pictures.

It can be done but you need someone who knows how to frame out the winder. You need someone who knows exactly what they are doing when framing a tapered winder. I would also ask whoever made the stairs if the could supply you with a piece of timber at the same radius as the one already there on...

Where in the borders are you ? And the price may sound nuts but, no one here has seen it. A sqm price would include loads of variables like scaffold, access, height, do quoins have to be formed, do bands have to be formed, location etc etc. Oh and how many sqm do you reckon there are on the...

Yes

Parkside cordless circular saw was what I used to use. I bought it just to see if it would work and it did. Also good for cutting kingspan cos you get a better square cut.

If you haven't already looked, I would take a look at Marley concrete cladding or composite cladding. Both come with good colour fast guarantees (over 20 yr if I remember right) and no danger of future cracking.

Aye the Riverside I presume. Giz a shout when your here and maybe grab a pint.

Aye but, because of the way the border meanders it's less than 10 miles from the border.

I'm nearly Scotland marra, and it's been donkeys years since I was on proper sites. That said I've done more than a bit for site agents and company chairmen who don't want site lads to see what they've got.

Ask for or buy frame sealant not just any old silicone.

Or as I was told when an apprentice, you're not in church get off your knee.

However long they think it's going to take plus materials and profit.

Don't forget to board the ceiling first then just dab it

Just sink the timbers in the ground and then there's no need to touch the insulation.

Apparently there's only I think, 5, big milling companies in USA who, during covid have reduced their output and now find themselves in a position to charge more due to current demand, while still not at pre covid output. It's all timber in USA not just sheet materials.

If you think it's getting bad here some of the prices I'm seeing for timber in USA is scary 98 dollars for a sheet of 18mm ply for example.

They want to still play league and cup games then have their own little league of ten teams. As Gary Neville said, man utd aren't even in the champions league this season but, would automatically have a spot in the new so called super League. They are all full of sheite, every last one of them...

It'll probably blow and have to be done again inside of 10yr anyway. No weepers/drains at base of wall a few winters of frost thaw will see it off.

Of course you can John. It might be awkward to do but, if it was easy no one on here would have a job. All your gonna lose is 50 or 60mm off the tread width on an open staircase.

Personally, first off I'd have them old lathes off before boarding. You don't say if there's a cavity on the external walls or not. If not, battern and insulated board would be better than D&D, much better. Internal walls as long as there's no issues with damp will be ok to D&D.

Just use s&c

Seaspiracy has already been criticized for inaccuracies apparently and, by proper scientists.

I wouldn't worry about building control if all you are going to do is flatten/ level with cross batterns. Just make sure you get the required insulation in before you battern it.