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The house will already have a physical dpc, so the cream IS NOT needed; I’d be wary if the advice you are getting suggests the contrary. Physical dpc’s don’t ‘fail’ wholesale, I’ve never heard anything other than anecdotes, or seen any reliable data that proves a physical dpc had failed. Maybe...

Should have asked in the first instant... how old is the original part of the house, I’d assumed pre-1919 without a physical dpc?

The two aren’t related, the dpc cream either works or it doesn’t regardless of the finish. The Cement-based render (with waterproofer?) or membrane is obviously the spec of choice for dampproofers, used to manage any salts... and moisture?

Please don’t pin your hopes on the injection cream... Air movement/ventilation, heating helps (but likely to raise humidity) and hope for the best as it seems the wrong spec for your property.

We do indeed. Even when these systems appear to be working (defined as ‘decoration is not spoiled’), moisture is accumulating and it’s got to go somewhere, so if you’re unlucky... Anyway, good luck.

Moisture-laden air will pass through unless you can guarantee air tightness, regardless of what materials you use, replacing the skirting will make little difference. Also we’ve not discussed the dabs that are forming a cold bridge between the wall and the surface of your plasterboard, so next...

Apologies, I thought you said boards. Reuse original beads if not gone too far (usually tight grained, high quality timber) or consider getting some made. Obviously there are cheaper ways to do it but I think we’re discussing how to do it appropriately?

In what context? As the walls appear to have originally been lime plastered, under what circumstances would you be justifying the specification of boards?

Ha yup, As you mention salts am I to assume it’s a ground floor flat or is it salts’ washing out from the masonry on a higher floor? Unless the ‘salts’ are chronic, then it’s replace like-for-like every time, even if cost is a problem for you currently, medium to long term it will be economical...

Evening Dave, The dehumidifier should be ok for one room:will help anyway. The system is wrong for your property - if I’m right in thinking that you where trying to control dampness from abutting walls in the yard of a neighbouring property (?), it’s tricky. However, If it is ‘wet’ (is it a...

Morning Dave, Fundamentally it’s the wrong specification for your property and therefore should never have been applied. Although these ‘air-gap’ tanking systems can appear to work in theory (work meaning - your decorative finish is no longer spoiled by dampness), in practice, they often...

Good Idea Martin, But, you’ve of course got to know the surface temp also so you’d need at least a digital thermometer for any of that data from your hygrometer (temp and humidity device) to be relevant.

As discussed in the other recent tanking topic - it sounds/looks like a condensation issue, commonly associated with tanking membranes. Water vapour generated (inc wet trades/plastering water) will condense on a cooler surface (when below dew point), and unless you create an airtight wall...

Not intending to put a dampener (no pun intended!) on the above but, you have just moved the condensation to behind the tanking membrane, and while your plasterboard/finish may have a improved, interstitial condensation is occurring behind your work. So what? Well, they may eventually see a...

The black 'mould' at low level is symptomatic of condensation - taking moisture readings from the skirting would tell you a lot. Additional to a 1930's build having some sort of DPC, it's likely to have a 'cavity' (relevant to external walls only!), albeit probably a very small one, could be...

Hello all, I'm a new member and have only just seen this thread. We work with cob in Devon so please contact me if you want to discuss cob or lime etc., if I can't help, I could direct you to someone who can. That said, I hope you haven't undertaken the works as you described, they are totally...