I see everyone is focusing on the product yes in certain circumstances things will happen with all textured coatings but this doesn't allow for bad construction detail. Why are you getting blamed for the render so called failing when the roof or soffit detail is apperently wrong? Was this done...
Over brick I would always use micro, parmurex gives you chance to plumber things out its a good base if pits price dependent maite although it's dearer per bag there is more to the m2 than parmurex. If you use maite order the right colour so you can eliminate the 310 primer although you need to...
Just seen this thread, cheers rigsby your right we are only 5 mile down the road. Either myself or rendermeister can have a look at it for you and advise the best way forward. If you want to pm me your details I'll give you a call.
We have sprayed it a few time as putz a nightmare to spread by hand. Don't work it too much and close it in quickly or the nightmare begins. I would also make sure the maite is dry enough first and no moisture there or it will start running down the wall.
This is the same old story of plasterers being tight as fook! Lol I'm with rigsby, these things can't help and for me it's about investing in yourself, your trade and being taken seriously. Most of the machines out there used correctly will save you time. Therefore more time spent doing work...
Alreet pal he's the man to answer this. I would suggest you spend some time with guys spaying internally before you get too involved with it internally unless you have shed loads to do and lads that can look after it.
If your unsure contact Parex, Krend and Webber direct and ask to speak to a rep in your area. They will know the better lads out there that can do the job to the right standard. I would say machine applied with the right team is the way to go. I would also rate them in that order. Less issues...
The real problem is that any of the modern nvq's and qualifications only say you know the basics and a capable to a level. Sadly this is no measure of quality and expertise. These cards may only get them on site but it won't keep them in a job. therefore hardly there fault as they are supposed...
Guys if you want to have a rant can you create your own thread, this was a legitimate ask for genuine spreads. Clearly I was wrong in putting it out here thinking If any of the lads were looking for some additional work over the next few months then I could help them out!
If you don't like...
@SprayRender
Twitter is good business to business, a good way to make new contacts in your area. Also other spreads wanting a lift on jobs etc. you have to invest a little time but well with it!
I might add this isn't Ewi etc,nothing against Ewi as we have done plenty. We are either the main contractor or we are direct to the main contractors and mainly new builds.
We have some decent work starting in west and South Yorkshire and need to expand our team. We have a couple of machines so experience would be a benefit as would a good knowledge of modern render system. Cheers guys
We use shed loads of BL10 and never have a problem. Doesn't need much water tho. Let it pick up before you Darby but have to watch it because it can turn on you and it starts dragging. We don't use retarder but we have used Axel 3000 to speed up the initial set on colder days to keep same day...
Parex is generally recognised as a better render. You' ll have more working time with it and it will take longer to go off. It can go direct on to new block but like any render you have to consider different rates of suction from concrete heads, common bricks and different block. If 7n...
Parex warrant a system. I be done a few make sure you light sand the whole surface to remove any film first. Maite then dash, EHI or acrylic. Plenty of options
im looking to add a stronger machine to go along with the ritmo we have.
would prefer either a g4 or a putz s44 or may even consider a diesel pump. if you have any of the above thenim interested in chatting....oh guy im no tyre kicker testing the water.
cheers
One coat normal areas 2 coats coastal or anti graffiti. 80 -100m2 per tub. This has around 30% silicone content other tend to be around 10%. We use a fair bit and it's good gear.
Alreet rigsby. It's my understanding that there's a bit more to the bagged renders than meets the eye. There's binders, adhesives, etc plus the usual sand cement lime. It's these binders and such that take hold of micro and the likes. Or at least that's what I'm told by a boffin. All I know is...
If unsure give Parex call and ask for your area manager he will have some recommended applicators to price it. They can also spec the system. It's tough to advise further without seeing the job physically.
I have done a couple, not big by any means but used a tilers washboy to keep sponge float clean and as dry as possible. Timing is everything. Although I do prefer to switch them to a GF finish.
Beads should always be bedded and never nailed. Parex now state in there spec 15mm beads when it used to say 10/15 proprietary beads. All good lads I know bed 10mm to get 15 overall and it gives you a chance to get your beads straighter. Parex is finished at 15mm that's how it's designed to work.
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