weber

euan · Mar 18, 2015

Hello.
I have been using krend for a while now but a client for a big job wants me to use weber. Whats it like and if I rend aid it where does the mesh go? In the rend aid or tbe first pass of the chalk?
Going onto old bricks but I have dubbed it out so all good so far.
Hand applied as well
Thanks

kgreigh · Mar 18, 2015

I like weber nice to hand apply,the mesh I put in the rend aid on stress points

euan · Mar 18, 2015

Awesome thanks

Putzmiester · Mar 18, 2015

I'd full mesh it bedded in the rend aid

kgreigh · Mar 18, 2015

Should have read the question better,with it being old dubbed out brickwork full mesh as putzmeister has said.

keithuk · Mar 18, 2015

I would Rendaid as said ,but full mesh in the mono

Rigsby · Mar 18, 2015

Well if you rang Weber you will get told by one rep mesh the rend-aid and mesh the mono by another!

I fully mesh the rend-aid (if I use Weber) but I am quite generous with the thickness so the mesh is fully embedded and have enough for a scratch (I don't stipple). Then mesh the stress points in the mono as per Weber spec.

But as Felix the Caribean Cat at Weber pointed out to me, the rend-aid is used for a purpose and he considered meshing it pointless. He recommended fully meshing the Mono as this is the coat that is brittle and needs the reinforcement. Good valid point but what a pain!

Then another rep tells me the opposite?

If I had the time and patience then fully mesh the mono and stress patches in the rend-aid but I haven't so I mesh the rend-aid and stress patch the mono.

euan · Mar 19, 2015

Thanks

owls · Mar 19, 2015

Your mesh should go in as closer to the finish coat as possible that way it works effectively.

User___removed · Mar 19, 2015

owls said:
Your mesh should go in as closer to the finish coat as possible that way it works effectively.

Yes for sure.how can a weber tech guy say put the mesh in the rend aid that's way behind the finish then?

owls · Mar 19, 2015

bobby said:
Yes for sure.how can a weber tech guy say put the mesh in the rend aid that's way behind the finish then?

because hes a penpusher not a renderer, ask any other experienced renderer they'll tell you the same, I use to demonstrate for parex, and the amount of 'renderers'that didn't know that was alarming.

user__removed · Mar 20, 2015

My argument would be that if you mesh the rendaid and there is movement in the substrate then any chance of cracking is prevented at that point.

owls · Mar 20, 2015

Rend aid is a lot more flexible than the top coat, if any movement is going to happen it's going to happen to pral m first.

user__removed · Mar 20, 2015

Fair enough. Last time I meshed the mono I had one square of mesh showing through and was made to redo it ffs, my own fault for not taking my time, no in fact it's my brothers for not turning up and putting me under pressure.

keithuk · Mar 20, 2015

Mesh in the rendaid ,does not work ,we had 2 jobs fail ,and it was done this way ,most mesh in the rendaid for speed ,saves titing around when spraying the mono

UKPlasteringmachines · Mar 20, 2015

I never mesh the rend aid always in the mono,
@Priceplastering the mesh is supposed to be in the top third of the the render for it to be effective

Putzmiester · Mar 20, 2015

Umm that's instresting Keith I've never looked at it that way before always thought that a full rend aid and mesh was a safe bet,there u go learn something new everyday

Putzmiester · Mar 20, 2015

You also stew ,well,well well looks like I better start doing it like you guys :/

keithuk · Mar 20, 2015

If the mesh is in the mono ,then it gives it less chance of cracking ,imho ,not saying i,m right ,but it does seem to work for us

keithuk · Mar 20, 2015

How you doing Putzmiester ? hope your still busy mate

Putzmiester · Mar 20, 2015

Makes sense mate never really looked at a it that way but like I said we learn something new everyday

Putzmiester · Mar 20, 2015

Yeah really busy thanks mate and u?

Rigsby · Mar 20, 2015

Quite agree with meshing the mono and not the rend-aid. But I don't don't use Weber if I can help it and the ones I do use involves at least 5mm base leaving 10mm max top mono coat.

So you have to spray say 5mm mono, flatten and bed mesh then another 7-8mm mono scraped back to total 15mm thickness. Bit of a bugger when mesh is exposed like said.

If it was mono at 15mm then that would be easier but two thin coats of mono is a bit of fine tuning.

keithuk · Mar 20, 2015

Putzmiester said:
Yeah really busy thanks mate and u?

Doing ok mate thanks

User___removed · Mar 21, 2015

Sometimes following a spec will push the price up.9/10 I price jobs that others will be going for so I'm always the top end with the cost.sometimes I find you talk through the spec with the client and it goes over there head.

keithuk · Mar 21, 2015

I find Bobby ,if i go though the spec with the customer ,and explain each process ,we normally get the job . When the next guy Quotes and says "no we will just bang it on ",they might be cheaper ,but who wants a house that is full of cracks

keithuk · Mar 21, 2015

Spelling again !! sorry ,where is the edit these days @Danny

johniosaif · Mar 21, 2015

To make room,the edit button was removed

keithuk · Mar 22, 2015

Thanks John

kgreigh · Mar 22, 2015

johniosaif said:
To make room,the edit button was removed

Your a lucky one I never had an edit button so had to do another post below lol

weber

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