Recent content by theshed

You still fit the top track to the ceiling, just screw at an angle.

It will be fine. As I said before not breaking the paper on the board is the most important thing. If you do just put another one in an inch away. Self drill screws are for heavier gauge metal such as met/ sec. Normal fine thread drywall screws suffice.

Don't overthink it. The key thing with plasterboarding is Don't break the paper on the board it's the strength. Remember to stagger the joints opposite sides of the m/f.

You but the boards up tight to each other on m/f.

I got a set of original metal ones. Same as you, use them now and again on slopes when I can't be arsed to get the lifter out.

Overboard and skim it.

I know you should not laugh at peoples demise but I did chuckle at the covid denier who died of covid a day after testing positive. Always refused to wear a mask, believed what he read online.The true meaning of irony.

Bought one today, what a bit of kit for the money

The bloke you are working for is not a builder, he's a cowboy. Yea ha!!!

A couple of coats of easyfill 20. Then a light sand.

Do the timber in 2 bits. Fix the top piece first through the track and from underneath then the second insert into the track and fix top and bottom.

Just use timber and fix through the back. What they call 2x2 timber is in fact only 45 mm square.

That was a great tip you put up before. I would never of thought of it .

Just checked it was a rapid 7.2 v. £90. But I would advise you to go with the milwaukee. Its about £110 bare tool plus another £40 for a cheap charger and batteries.

Can't remember off hand its a while ago I got it. If I bought one now I would get that milwaukee one. It looks the biz. I think I paid £80 or £90. I would pay the extra next time as replacement batteries are cheap, so are chargers.