Recent content by dickydoon

looking good dan,just a question,how come on the ols forum the plough and harrow pub is on it?,not far from me drunk in there a bit

i dont want to cast from a reverse as it will be used for student casting them and of a reverese they will only get about 10-15 casts of it before we will have to remake it.and the local fibrous lads will not sell me any of there stuff a it is specially made for them.paddle creek springs to mind!!!!

no mate a load of reasons why damp can get in,but as a plasterer just do the best i can to keep my work as good as it can be

sealed what moisture in?the fraction thats gone in when scratching the wall?so if you got two waterproof coats on the walland you get a shrinkage crack wher does the moistur go then?not back out to the face as its waterproof,it will sit in the scratch and travel througt to the...

are u using a roller to apply it?sometimes the roller will create air pockets between the glue and the surface your going onto,so then when you skim onto it the air pockets bleed through into the skimming(bit like un popped bubble wrap)to minimise this effect still roller your stuff on but try...

i dont mean the entire wall, the topcoat breathes.look at it a bit like your skin..moisture need s to go in and out but not to penetrate

you should have kept then nicks,handy to have [smiley=cry.gif]

dan dont know what area your at but it might be worthwhile speaking to the local education authority? local gov are ploughing so much money into training and redundacy re training it might be worth a mail or two.

trowel,lime is a natural plasterciser,and in some ways the most underated material within the plastering game.since torment became cheap and readily available in the 30s/40s lots of the majic of lime has been overlooked

reason 4 not putting waterproofer in topcoatis it will allow the topcoat to breath,why do you need it?your scratch is waterproof.when it rains the topcoat will suck in the water through to the waterproof scratch then that will push it back to the surface,then runs down the walls and drip drip...

it will do the aggregate in the bonding will scratch the lens and make it feel like somethings still in there,trust me after a&e irregation it will be clear!!!

been there too m8.it will be sore 4 a bit

anyone got any fibrous fibreglass moulds? looking for something with 150-200 ceiling projection and 100-150 wall projection. 3 meters pref,plain run or enriched.

i go 4-1 on scratch with waterproofer 6-1-1 on topcoat,dont stick waterproofer in topcoat

i imagine the walls will fly off otherwise you wouldnt be boarding them