Advice on monocouche

bazzer

Member
just started doing a few rendering jobs and love doing them albeit the traditional sand cement which I can do to a good standard l got a bungalow to do but in mono its onto Good brickwork etc if you guys where doing it what would be your preferred material would you treat brickwork or straight on with mono what size beads etc is it rule and spat Then next day scratch short or long tooth scratcher would be interesting to hear your methods so I can get a good over view cheers in advance guys
 
Everone has a preference when it comes to material but remember its all mortar with pigment in it.

Spec for mono is 15mm so using 15 beads is a fail proof way of getting the right thickness.

Preference for me for the very best result is the spray apply anything with colour in it. 1 heavy pass lay the mesh and then top with a thinner pass rule up and then spatch.

Dependi g on your brickwork type u may need a prep coat each manufacturer has their own.
You probably hand app so make sure your labourer keeps the mixes coming with no breaks and every batch it exact water content or you may get shading or edging.
Nothing worse than mono thats been hamd applied and you can see every batch mix in sections om the wall.

Use an i section to get the scrape then tickle off with a scrape float.
 
Everone has a preference when it comes to material but remember its all mortar with pigment in it.

Spec for mono is 15mm so using 15 beads is a fail proof way of getting the right thickness.

Preference for me for the very best result is the spray apply anything with colour in it. 1 heavy pass lay the mesh and then top with a thinner pass rule up and then spatch.

Dependi g on your brickwork type u may need a prep coat each manufacturer has their own.
You probably hand app so make sure your labourer keeps the mixes coming with no breaks and every batch it exact water content or you may get shading or edging.
Nothing worse than mono thats been hamd applied and you can see every batch mix in sections om the wall.

Use an i section to get the scrape then tickle off with a scrape float.
Do you not run the risk of halos doing a thinner second coat?
 
Not really mate but i wouldnt advise a novice to do it at first or hand apps that rely on slapping it fat so to speak with no method of ruling.

We stick to the basic rules of 2 coat. 2 coats flat and plumb ruled the flatter the app the easier the rule easier the rule flatter the wall, flatter the wall easy to scrape.

Mesh wants to be close o the surface for spec too final 3rd of the material.

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Thanks plasterjfe that's a really good over view mate thanks for taking the time to write it I would definitely feel more confident in doing it now I am gonna do the garden wall like I said can rule and spat no problem but like anything else getting timings etc correct Could be the crucial bit will post how I get on once again thank you
 
If your hand app u gotta be quick especially to rule it.

Check out the brick. If say u use weber it might need rendaid first etc parex u can prime with microgobetis or krend hp base.

Its a good idea to base it out and take some depth off it if your hand app then you can top out nice like in a pass without worrying about turning back to fill out
 
I only use rendaid when the key isn't great .. I have hand balled for years but now I've just bought a Ritmo and looking forwards to no more arm pump lol . Get an I beam and the walls will be spot on ?
 
Don't think I doing something right on the small ones I have done so far (5) when handballing.
Been using 15mm beads at tops at fascia but always seem to struggle getting the beads at top covered is this area alot better to get thick enough with machine or am I just crap?
Another little question does everyone use 15mm or 10mm dub out ?
Done a wall on my driveway today only 4.2 x 0.60 section flipping got it on to late and got caught in rain tonight, just finished it now but ain't happy with it to be honest again didn't get it thick enough along the top
 
Don't think I doing something right on the small ones I have done so far (5) when handballing.
Been using 15mm beads at tops at fascia but always seem to struggle getting the beads at top covered is this area alot better to get thick enough with machine or am I just crap?
Another little question does everyone use 15mm or 10mm dub out ?
Done a wall on my driveway today only 4.2 x 0.60 section flipping got it on to late and got caught in rain tonight, just finished it now but ain't happy with it to be honest again didn't get it thick enough along the top
why didn't you cover it over mate weather showery at the mo
 
why didn't you cover it over mate weather showery at the mo
I got it on at 1 and it was hot 5-6pm flipping raining..backed me van up and chucked sheet up it's ok for me driveway but still thinking I only going to do this monocouche with a machine on jobs handballing seems to take to long to get thickness passed the 15mm beads from what I have done so far
Here's some pictures I'm open to critique.
Imo it's harder to get this s**t right than snc
WP_20160626_14_02_15_Pro.jpg
WP_20160626_15_30_35_Pro.jpg
WP_20160626_19_47_15_Pro.jpg
WP_20160626_19_46_11_Pro.jpg
WP_20160626_20_06_03_Pro.jpg
 
Don't think I doing something right on the small ones I have done so far (5) when handballing.
Been using 15mm beads at tops at fascia but always seem to struggle getting the beads at top covered is this area alot better to get thick enough with machine or am I just crap?
Another little question does everyone use 15mm or 10mm dub out ?
Done a wall on my driveway today only 4.2 x 0.60 section flipping got it on to late and got caught in rain tonight, just finished it now but ain't happy with it to be honest again didn't get it thick enough along the top
I used to struggle getting the thickness at the facia line and sometimes under window cills when hand balling. Use to be proper frustrating.

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10mm beads dabbed gives you 15mm. I found the best way to do mono by hand was 2 passes wet on wet, gear mixed up a bit thicker, but one coat, don't let the 1st pass skin up. Serrated edge on second pass, then spat, then scratch. If the brickwork is f+cked go with it and don't I section...if that's the finish the customer wants they have to except it won't be completely flat, otherwise you risk halos. Mono is best for new build. We use OCR and thin coat on re furb. OCR is good render, can get away with thickness.
 
10mm beads dabbed gives you 15mm. I found the best way to do mono by hand was 2 passes wet on wet, gear mixed up a bit thicker, but one coat, don't let the 1st pass skin up. Serrated edge on second pass, then spat, then scratch. If the brickwork is f+cked go with it and don't I section...if that's the finish the customer wants they have to except it won't be completely flat, otherwise you risk halos. Mono is best for new build. We use OCR and thin coat on re furb. OCR is good render, can get away with thickness.
How are you getting on with the machine ?
 
I'm doing mono on a new build at the moment and the blockwork is absolutely shocking. Trying to get our beads plumb was a joke had to hack away at some of the block and build out other bits. f**k**g idiots making our job twice as hard as it should be.
 
10mm beads dabbed gives you 15mm. I found the best way to do mono by hand was 2 passes wet on wet, gear mixed up a bit thicker, but one coat, don't let the 1st pass skin up. Serrated edge on second pass, then spat, then scratch. If the brickwork is f+cked go with it and don't I section...if that's the finish the customer wants they have to except it won't be completely flat, otherwise you risk halos. Mono is best for new build. We use OCR and thin coat on re furb. OCR is good render, can get away with thickness.
Hi freeD

What OCR do you use mate if you don't mind me asking.
 
How are you getting on with the machine ?

Good mate, it's taken a while, we have had a few issues, blocked air, blocked material etc but once you know how to get these things sorted and work out the water setting for each material the Ritmo is brilliant. Just working as 2 now and the machine, medium size jobs, get the render on by around 10:30, have lunch, clean down the machine, then start finishing.
 
Good mate, it's taken a while, we have had a few issues, blocked air, blocked material etc but once you know how to get these things sorted and work out the water setting for each material the Ritmo is brilliant. Just working as 2 now and the machine, medium size jobs, get the render on by around 10:30, have lunch, clean down the machine, then start finishing.
Nice one , all the best with your jobs , sounds like your doing okay with it.
:birra:
 
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