Tile Question, Off Topic:

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TRMN

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To Demo or Not To Demo

I'm sorry to put this question into this forum,
but The Plasterers Forum seems to have a pulse.
(Unlike the Tile Forum I've joined)

Replacing square tiles with 15" x 30".
Tear out existing filler/glue/?, or leave it, fill around existing, and tiling over?
A tear out would allow a layer of insulation and cement board for stability.

Seeking opinions.

Thank you.
 

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I would tile over .
Early 60s tilers would fix on blobs like yours only using sand and cement. yours looks to me like blobs of ceramic adhesive. I would guess that you would damage the lightweight block removing the tile bed.
The lightweight blocks were not available till the 70s.
 
To Demo or Not To Demo

I'm sorry to put this question into this forum,
but The Plasterers Forum seems to have a pulse.
(Unlike the Tile Forum I've joined)

Replacing square tiles with 15" x 30".
Tear out existing filler/glue/?, or leave it, fill around existing, and tiling over?
A tear out would allow a layer of insulation and cement board for stability.

Seeking opinions.

Thank you.
I'd fill that if it's solid and tile over
 
I would tile over .
Early 60s tilers would fix on blobs like yours only using sand and cement. yours looks to me like blobs of ceramic adhesive. I would guess that you would damage the lightweight block removing the tile bed.
The lightweight blocks were not available till the 70s.
How the f**k did they get it straight if they were dabbing every tile?

Any idea?
 
How the f**k did they get it straight if they were dabbing every tile?

Any idea?
We would put a sand and cement scratch on the blocks. The tilers who were mostly old bricklayers who wanted to work inside. They would use the same method as they would have laid bricks. The scratch coat and the tile mortar would be a strong mix.
I remember when the first ready mix tile adhesive was available in the early 60s , Richafix it was called. they were all scratching their heads wondering how ever is this going to work!
 
I would tile over .
Early 60s tilers would fix on blobs like yours only using sand and cement. yours looks to me like blobs of ceramic adhesive. I would guess that you would damage the lightweight block removing the tile bed.
The lightweight blocks were not available till the 70s.
Thank you for your input.
So much of understanding what to do is knowing the history.
I am facing two very similar projects with this set up.
Tile failure, loose backing, door knob abuse, hair line tile cracks, etc.
The worst offense is the use of mis matched colors in prior repairs. Eye sore.
The 1938 job in the picture had lippage, but it wasn't as unbearable as the colors.
But some of the ceramic (?) backing had broken free of the steel mesh coated with mortar.
Apparently that caused the surface failure.
Breaking through the ceramic would require a lot of chipping.
Then there's the steel reinforced concrete backing, and that is even more intimidating.
I have some skills, but I am new to this art.
It seems I have no choice but to test the ceramic and maybe somehow make it stable.
But if I go with 15" x 30" tiles, maybe I can get away with leaving most of the ceramic in place.
Sal DiBlasi, a tiling guy who is producing a bunch of short vids hitting Youtube, seems to insist on stability of the substrate. I believe the original job using complimentary materials achieved that.
And that is why I appreciated your post in response.
You provided history and a basis for thinking about my next move.
 
How the f**k did they get it straight if they were dabbing every tile?

Any idea?
Thank you for your response.
You bring up a point that I've seen recently in tile vids.
A strict warning against "dabbing" leading to tile failure.
I would have to really fill in the crevices to avoid dabbing failure, as I understand it.
I'm thinking I could do that with a foam insulation, but expansion/contraction rates may disagree.
I don't know exactly what method was used in the original install (forms, like concrete?), but it seems they got the material consistency right. Cement board would be consistent, I think.
But then, how?
It's a tough one.
Thank you for your input.
 
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