Fixing tolerances for metal studs

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BigMacks

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If fixing tolerances for joining plasterboards are 6mm plus minimum 13mm for cut edges or minimum 10mm for bound edges on timber, then what are the fixing tolerances when fixing onto metal frames?

Considering most metal c stud profiles provide only 32-34mm, and there could be a maximum separation gap of 3mm between plasterboards...
 

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theshed said:
You but the boards up tight to each other on m/f.
Click to expand...
But whether you butt the boards closely together or not, you still only have about 32-34mm to play with, so about 16mm-17mm for each plasterboard, on the metal frame.

I guess the fixing tolerances are generally less for metal frames, considering even screw penetration only has to be 10mm for metal frames but at least 25mm (about an inch) for timber.
 
DIYMatt said:
If fixing tolerances for joining plasterboards are 6mm plus minimum 13mm for cut edges or minimum 10mm for bound edges on timber, then what are the fixing tolerances when fixing onto metal frames?

Considering most metal c stud profiles provide only 32-34mm, and there could be a maximum separation gap of 3mm between plasterboards...
Click to expand...
@Casper
 
I think you have interpreted the drawing as a 3mm gap for each board, it is the total gap of 3mm that is stated. The technical guidance says to lightly butt the boards together.
DIYMatt said:
If fixing tolerances for joining plasterboards are 6mm plus minimum 13mm for cut edges or minimum 10mm for bound edges on timber, then what are the fixing tolerances when fixing onto metal frames?

Considering most metal c stud profiles provide only 32-34mm, and there could be a maximum separation gap of 3mm between plasterboards...
Click to expand...
 
DIYMatt said:
But whether you butt the boards closely together or not, you still only have about 32-34mm to play with, so about 16mm-17mm for each plasterboard, on the metal frame.

I guess the fixing tolerances are generally less for metal frames, considering even screw penetration only has to be 10mm for metal frames but at least 25mm (about an inch) for timber.
Click to expand...
Don't overthink it. The key thing with plasterboarding is Don't break the paper on the board it's the strength. Remember to stagger the joints opposite sides of the m/f.
 
DIYMatt said:
If fixing tolerances for joining plasterboards are 6mm plus minimum 13mm for cut edges or minimum 10mm for bound edges on timber, then what are the fixing tolerances when fixing onto metal frames?

Considering most metal c stud profiles provide only 32-34mm, and there could be a maximum separation gap of 3mm between plasterboards...
Click to expand...
I'd say @TonyM would be best to advise
 
theshed said:
Don't overthink it. The key thing with plasterboarding is Don't break the paper on the board it's the strength. Remember to stagger the joints opposite sides of the m/f.
Click to expand...
Yeah I've been getting on with plasterboarding the ceiling (which has been levelled with metal C studs attached to the joists). Plasterboards of course run perpendicular to metal studs.

Using special plasterboard to metal self drilling screws as opposed to the black screws for timber.

Generally leaving about 2mm gap between each board (have the boardmate to help which guides the 2mm gap).

Anyway in some places I'm having to screw in less than 10mm off the edge of the board!
Not always possible to leave the 10 or 13mm advised gap since, as I mentioned, the metal frames give only about 32mm to play.

Hopefully this would okay. I'm screwing in every 150mm along the edges of board ends and every 200mm in between just to make sure it securely in.
 
So many products are made to be cheap as possible. Would rather pay more for wider ainit?

You’ve probably boarded it now but can always screw some timber in to the side of the c stud to help you bridge any misses
 
It will be fine. As I said before not breaking the paper on the board is the most important thing. If you do just put another one in an inch away. Self drill screws are for heavier gauge metal such as met/ sec. Normal fine thread drywall screws suffice.
 
He’s on about the gap left between the screw and the edge of the board, be it the bound or cut edge.
 
Hello - it would be great to get some more feedback on British Gypsum boards from you, we can feed it back to the product and quality teams.

Thanks
 
BritishGypsum said:
Hello - it would be great to get some more feedback on British Gypsum boards from you, we can feed it back to the product and quality teams.

Thanks
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Your boards are soo bad compared to the other manufactures not even close, pure garbage, when I work for builders i pray they don’t have a jewsons account lol
 
BritishGypsum said:
Hello - it would be great to get some more feedback on British Gypsum boards from you, we can feed it back to the product and quality teams.

Thanks
Click to expand...
Over the last few years your boards have been unpredictable. Some nice and crisp, that cut and snap cleanly, and others that act as if they're filled with chewing gum.
It got to the point that I told my Jewsons manager that if a pack arrived at site with the pink core we would refuse to take them, they were that bad.
I can only assume that the problems relate to the recycling of various gypsum products?
 
Ritch said:
Your boards are soo bad compared to the other manufactures not even close, pure garbage, when I work for builders i pray they don’t have a jewsons account lol
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What are the reasons you think they're bad? If we know the reasons, we can feed it back to the quality team. Thanks
 
essexandy said:
Over the last few years your boards have been unpredictable. Some nice and crisp, that cut and snap cleanly, and others that act as if they're filled with chewing gum.
It got to the point that I told my Jewsons manager that if a pack arrived at site with the pink core we would refuse to take them, they were that bad.
I can only assume that the problems relate to the recycling of various gypsum products?
Click to expand...
Thanks for the feedback, this is really helpful. We'll ensure it gets fed back to the product and quality team so they can improve quality and consistency.
 
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